Would you buy a high mileage Grizz ? - Yamaha Grizzly ATV Forum
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post #1 of 24 Old 03-20-2017, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
 
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Would you buy a high mileage Grizz ?

Hey, new potential buyer here looking for a Grizz. Couple of questions to help me narrow the field down.

In my area on craigslist I have found several for sale.

What would you consider a high mile bike and at what point would you stay away from buying one based on mileage?

Ex. there is a 2007, 700eps w 3800 miles for 4999 at the local dealer (dealer checked). I'm assuming the price is somewhat negotiable.

Based on mileage alone is this one that would be considered? at what point does internal wear start to become a problem, diff bearings, gears, trans internals and the like?

For this discussion let's assume a generally normal maintained bike and normal ridden machine not submerged or beat on.


Thanks in advance !!
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post #2 of 24 Old 03-20-2017, 09:56 AM
 
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At 3800 miles there could be a lot of life left in that bike. Onus will be on you or an independent mechanic to know what could potentially be wrong with it. There are some on here who have got 20,000 miles on a Grizzly 700 but I assure you those people are meticulous about proper maintenance/fluid changes.


Two items stick out on the Grizzly 700 (2007-2008):

There is a potential problem with the stator burning out because those years did not have a stator oil line for cooling. Mine was burnt at approx 2000 miles. Relatively easy to replace and easy to upgrade to a 2009 stator cover, plenty of documented information on this forum. < $400 for replacing both the stator and an upgraded stator cover, parts only on that cost estimate.

Second is the EPS motor vent line. For some this has been problematic but I've been blessed with not having this issue yet. Some have sealed off this vent line as it is not needed and the vent was removed in later years. If the EPS motor goes, this is a bit expensive as a new EPS unit is in the range of $1200+ for just the part.

BTW, all 2007 Grizzly 700s are EPS as that was standard and not an option for 2007, only.

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post #3 of 24 Old 03-20-2017, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by RedRocket View Post
At 3800 miles there could be a lot of life left in that bike. Onus will be on you or an independent mechanic to know what could potentially be wrong with it. There are some on here who have got 20,000 miles on a Grizzly 700 but I assure you those people are meticulous about proper maintenance/fluid changes.


Two items stick out on the Grizzly 700 (2007-2008):

There is a potential problem with the stator burning out because those years did not have a stator oil line for cooling. Mine was burnt at approx 2000 miles. Relatively easy to replace and easy to upgrade to a 2009 stator cover, plenty of documented information on this forum. < $400 for replacing both the stator and an upgraded stator cover, parts only on that cost estimate.

Second is the EPS motor vent line. For some this has been problematic but I've been blessed with not having this issue yet. Some have sealed off this vent line as it is not needed and the vent was removed in later years. If the EPS motor goes, this is a bit expensive as a new EPS unit is in the range of $1200+ for just the part.

BTW, all 2007 Grizzly 700s are EPS as that was standard and not an option for 2007, only.
Thanks for the quick reply !

20,000 miles seems to be a real good test of durability.

That 2007 could be on the potential buy list but at this point I just used it as an example, there seems to be a fair amount of used stuff out there with this type of mileage (and there is some with considerably less)

I'm real mechanically inclined so the easy stuff (wheel bearings axle shafts etc) don't really bother me too much but I'd rather ride than wrench. It's the internal stuff that I don't want to have to get into too soon as that is more time consuming to tackle.

What is the issue with the EPS vent line ? I'm thinking it lets moisture in?
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post #4 of 24 Old 03-20-2017, 10:51 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eriehunter View Post
I'm real mechanically inclined so the easy stuff (wheel bearings axle shafts etc) don't really bother me too much but I'd rather ride than wrench. It's the internal stuff that I don't want to have to get into too soon as that is more time consuming to tackle.

What is the issue with the EPS vent line ? I'm thinking it lets moisture in?
The moisture is my understanding. I do ride through knee high water fairly regular but have not been faced with the EPS issue. There is info about squirting WD40 into the vent line to displace any moisture that could possibly get in there.


If the 2007 700 becomes high on your list, you may want to pay for a download of the Yamaha Service Manual as it is very detailed and can give you compression info and pretty much everything to understand how to fix one. $10 and would be good info for checking over a bike... I think it was tradebit where it can be downloaded for the $10.

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post #5 of 24 Old 03-20-2017, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by RedRocket View Post
If the 2007 700 becomes high on your list, you may want to pay for a download of the Yamaha Service Manual as it is very detailed and can give you compression info and pretty much everything to understand how to fix one. $10 and would be good info for checking over a bike... I think it was tradebit where it can be downloaded for the $10.
Good info, I would probably do that for whatever year I buy. My brother has one for his Suzuki King Quad, we have found it useful.
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post #6 of 24 Old 03-20-2017, 05:41 PM
 
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Seems kinda high for a 10 year old machine with 3800 miles, especially not knowing how those miles were put on it or if it has been serviced regularly.

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post #7 of 24 Old 03-20-2017, 06:38 PM
 
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Don't know how the prices are up there but that's stupid high around here I say keep looking

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post #8 of 24 Old 03-21-2017, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
 
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Don't know how the prices are up there but that's stupid high around here I say keep looking
I thought it was a little high but being at a dealer it's too be expected. KBB is at 4600. What would you expect for a price?

It is a ducks unlimited edition camo, not that it really means much to me.

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post #9 of 24 Old 03-21-2017, 03:47 PM
 
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I bet you can take 2000 off the price of the 2007 and the dealer still makes money.
If you want a used machine, private sales are O.K.
As long as the machine condition looks in line with the miles, and there are no basic flaws, then make an offer you can be happy with.
I have 8000 miles on my '06', along with a few scratches but the engine does not smoke and when you push a button everything works.
If you look at a used bike and something needs fix'in', allow for the fix in a lower price.
Also, some machines have aftermarket adds that add to the price.

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post #10 of 24 Old 03-21-2017, 03:49 PM
 
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The price or value all depends on your specific area and market. It is very hard to ask that question on a forum and get a good answer. The only good answers comes from people within your market area.

Just giving an opposite example from above posts, where I live you would be lucky to find a Grizzly 700 for less than $5000. If you find one in that price range, it's in bad shape. People are still asking and getting $6000 for near mint newer (06-08) Grizzly 660's.

Since KBB is saying $4600 for that bike....and IF they bike is in excellent condition, in your market that dealer might not be far off the mark with its asking price.
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post #11 of 24 Old 03-21-2017, 06:24 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eriehunter View Post
I thought it was a little high but being at a dealer it's too be expected. KBB is at 4600. What would you expect for a price?

It is a ducks unlimited edition camo, not that it really means much to me.
I buy and sell some. I have found KBB and NADA good starting spots for pricing. KBB does not account for add ons and both assume condition is good or at least appropriate for its age. NADA (National Auto Dealers Association) is, as the name applies, a site geared toward dealers. So take what it says with a grain of salt. Of course, the price must then be adjusted for any repairs needed and condition defects.

My practice on add ons is to research the add on and add half the new current market value to my "willing to pay" price assuming the add on is in good shape. So if a machine I'm willing to give $5,000 for has a $400 winch, I'll add 200 bucks to my (final) offer. I do the same when selling and then bump the price a bit to account for negotiations.

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No, I would not buy a high milage Grizz, low miles only, unless you know and have ridden with the seller.

If the budget can stand it, look for a 2014 or 2015 Grizzly 700.


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post #13 of 24 Old 03-22-2017, 03:29 PM
 
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I would give up a few model years in exchange for a lower mileage unit any day. To me, that just means there is more life left in it. But no doubt, a well maintained Yamaha can handle high mileage. My 2004 has 8k on it now, still going strong. Bought it with 2500 miles on it.

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post #14 of 24 Old 03-22-2017, 04:10 PM
 
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I think something needs to cleared up here. Mileage is really not the most important. It is a factor for judging, but far from being the most important point to based a decision on.
"Condition" is the most important factor.

Mud bikes are the best examples of this. They always have low mileage as they do not go anywhere. They just travel mud hole to mud hole. Yet they go through more wear and tear than any other use. They are also prone to swamping the engines, diffs, etc. 500 miles on a mud bike is worse than 5000 miles on a trail bike..........But yet if you have a well maintained mud bike, it can also last for years and thousands of miles.

Condition is the key component. A bike that is well maintained, clean and kept in good mechanical condition no matter the miles is what you need to look for. My bike is an example of this. It has 4500 miles on it (7300 kms). Every component is just as tight now as it was new. That's because I maintain it. I keep the bearings, seals, ball joints, boots, bushings, etc replaced as needed. I grease and oil it regularly, we'll above and beyond the recommended Yamaha maintenance schedule. I over maintain it and take care of it.

Nothing is really the "end all be all" in the decision making process of buying a bike. But judging by mileage as the most important factor is a mistake. A lesson learned by many folks who bought mud bikes, abused bikes , etc....and paid a hefty price in repairs later before everything was wore out. Then they go tell everyone the bike is a piece of junk.

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post #15 of 24 Old 03-22-2017, 06:21 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dezz View Post
I think something needs to cleared up here. Mileage is really not the most important. It is a factor for judging, but far from being the most important point to based a decision on.
"Condition" is the most important factor.

Mud bikes are the best examples of this. They always have low mileage as they do not go anywhere. They just travel mud hole to mud hole. Yet they go through more wear and tear than any other use. They are also prone to swamping the engines, diffs, etc. 500 miles on a mud bike is worse than 5000 miles on a trail bike..........But yet if you have a well maintained mud bike, it can also last for years and thousands of miles.

Condition is the key component. A bike that is well maintained, clean and kept in good mechanical condition no matter the miles is what you need to look for. My bike is an example of this. It has 4500 miles on it (7300 kms). Every component is just as tight now as it was new. That's because I maintain it. I keep the bearings, seals, ball joints, boots, bushings, etc replaced as needed. I grease and oil it regularly, we'll above and beyond the recommended Yamaha maintenance schedule. I over maintain it and take care of it.

Nothing is really the "end all be all" in the decision making process of buying a bike. But judging by mileage as the most important factor is a mistake. A lesson learned by many folks who bought mud bikes, abused bikes , etc....and paid a hefty price in repairs later before everything was wore out. Then they go tell everyone the bike is a piece of junk.
Good post and agree 100%. However, I never buy any off road vehicle used. All my quads, dirt bikes and snowmobiles I bought new. That's just me, if your budget doesn't allow for new, then you have to do what you have to do.

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