HOW TO: Wiring your Aftermarket Lights - Yamaha Grizzly ATV Forum
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post #1 of 37 Old 07-11-2011, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
 
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HOW TO: Wiring your Aftermarket Lights

These instructions are written for wiring up a set of Rigid Industries Dually D2 lights using the color codes on the Rigid wiring harness. The basic instructions could be used for any set of lights.


AUTO ON WITH HIGH BEAMS (attached wiring schematic)

The D2 light set wiring harness has 3 wire runs. All the black wires (3) connect together at the relay. The red wires for the power and the switch also connect together at the relay. One run is the plug that goes to the lights, this will need to be run along the frame and up under the front hood where you will connect the D2 lights. This is a long run and you may need to coil the extra wire up in the storage area.

The second run has the power/ground wires. The extra wire can be coiled up in the storage area also. Coiled this run and zip-tied the coil with enough play to run the two wires to the battery terminals. The supplied terminal lugs are too big for the battery terminals. I had to cut the supplied terminals and replace them with a blue ring terminal with a hole properly sized for the battery screws.

The last run contains 3 wires and goes to the switch. You will only need the blue wire. Disconnect the switch. If you want to remove the extra wire, then cut off the connectors on the red and black wires at the switch and pull these wires back through the coil and cut them at the relay connector. Seal the ends with liquid black electrical tape. It is not necessary to pull them back through, but realize the red wire will be live when you hook up the battery, so I didn’t want it up front where it could get swamped. Route the blue wire up the under the front hood. Using a blue crimp splicer, splice the blue wire to the high beam (yellow) wire on the battery side of the plug, not the headlight side of the plug. If you mount the relay in the storage compartment under the seat (660), the blue switch wire may be too short and you may need to splice in extra wire in it to get to the high beam wires under the front hood. If you need to splice extra wire to the blue wire, I used 2 feet of the black wire I cut off and used bullet connectors to connect them. After I spliced them together I coated all the openings with liquid black tape again.

Mount the D2s where you want. There should be plenty of wire in the Y-connector provided access the harness plug under the front hood.
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post #2 of 37 Old 07-11-2011, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
 
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ON-OFF-AUTO ON WITH HIGH BEAMS (attached wiring schematic)


The D2 light set wiring harness has 3 wire runs. All the black wires (3) connect together at the relay. The red wires for the power and the switch also connect together at the relay. One run is the plug that goes to the lights, this will need to be run along the frame and up under the front hood where you will connect the D2 lights. This is a long run and you may need to coil the extra wire up in the storage area.


The second run has the power/ground wires. The extra wire can be coiled up in the storage area also. Coiled this run and zip-tied the coil with enough play to run the two wires to the battery terminals. The supplied terminal lugs are too big for the battery terminals. I had to cut the supplied terminals and replace them with a blue ring terminal with a hole properly sized for the battery screws.

The last run contains 3 wires and goes to the switch. You will need to replace the supplied switch with a DPDT switch. I got the one illustrated off eBay. You will only need the blue wire. If you want to remove the extra wire, then cut off the connectors on the red and black wires at the switch and pull these wires back through the coil and cut them at the relay connector. Seal the ends with liquid black electrical tape. It is not necessary to pull them back through, but realize the red wire will be live when you hook up the battery, so I didn’t want it up front where it could get swamped. Route the blue wire to the location you plan on installing the switch. If you mount the relay in the storage compartment under the seat (660), the blue switch wire may be too short and you may need to splice in extra wire in it to get to the switch location. If you need to splice extra wire to the blue wire, I used 2 feet of the black wire I cut off and used bullet connectors to connect them. After I spliced them together I coated all the openings with liquid black tape again. Using a blue crimp splicer, splice a wire to the high beam (yellow) wire on the battery side of the plug, not the headlight side of the plug and connect to the middle lug of the switch. Repeat with the ignition wire to the middle lug on the opposite side of the switch. Install a jumper by replacing the connector on the blue wire with a new connector with the blue and jumper wires. Connect one end to the “ON” side switch terminal and the other to the “AUTO” side switch terminal. This will determine which way you need to select the switch for Auto or On. Mount the switch.

Mount the D2s where you want. There should be plenty of wire in the Y-connector provided access the harness plug under the front hood.
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Last edited by UpstateNYGrizz; 07-11-2011 at 08:33 PM.
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post #3 of 37 Old 07-11-2011, 08:36 PM
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post #4 of 37 Old 08-17-2011, 12:18 PM
 
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Thanks! I was wondering how i was going wire my led bar as I don't like the switch that came with the rigid wiring harness.

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post #5 of 37 Old 08-17-2011, 01:43 PM
 
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Good post! Thx! Very informative.
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post #6 of 37 Old 08-17-2011, 02:28 PM
 
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That's great! Thanks.

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post #7 of 37 Old 08-18-2011, 08:43 PM
 
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BTW its the same yellow wire for those who have the 700

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post #8 of 37 Old 10-28-2011, 02:37 PM
 
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Any instructions for a newbie if I just want to on/off from the supplied switch? No connection to the Main system.
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post #9 of 37 Old 11-21-2011, 06:50 PM
 
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i purchased a set of Dually and hooked them up directly on my high beams, so when i turn on the hi beams the duallys are on too, so i plugged the positive wire of the duallys to the yellow one from the atv wich is used for high beams, and the negative of the duallys to the black wire also used on the lights, some of you have mentioned using a relay, can you explain why it is needed if it is really needed and what is it's purpose. thanks

Last edited by yamamoto; 11-21-2011 at 06:55 PM.
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post #10 of 37 Old 11-23-2011, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yamamoto View Post
i purchased a set of Dually and hooked them up directly on my high beams, so when i turn on the hi beams the duallys are on too, so i plugged the positive wire of the duallys to the yellow one from the atv wich is used for high beams, and the negative of the duallys to the black wire also used on the lights, some of you have mentioned using a relay, can you explain why it is needed if it is really needed and what is it's purpose. thanks

Sometimes you want to limit the increase in amperage going through the stock yellow wires. You already have the amps from the stock 35 watt light. If you increase the amp draw too much you run the risk of melting the wire. With running a relay, you only add the amps required to energize the relay which is very little. The amps required to energize the lights goes directly from the battery, through the relay to the lights. The good thing about the Dually's is they don't draw much current (compared to a 55 watt haolgen), but more than a relay. Remember if you melt the yellow wire, you are going dark. Could be a problem if you are traveling at high speeds at night.

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post #11 of 37 Old 03-19-2013, 07:35 PM
 
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Any thoughts on adding lights to a 2005 grizzly 80? I'd like to be able to use the quad at night but its kinda tough without lights. I don't want to kill the battery or damage other parts of the elect. System.... I'm not sure what size lights I can use(wattage) or how to wire the lights - direct to battery with an in line switch or splice into the ignition wiring???
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post #12 of 37 Old 03-19-2013, 10:54 PM
 
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Re: HOW TO: Wiring your Aftermarket Lights

Not sure on wiring. Or if it can handle it, but if it can, I recommend using led. Lowest wattage per lumen.

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post #13 of 37 Old 07-06-2013, 12:22 AM
 
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I bought this on EB:
14." 72w spot flood combo LED ALLOY work LIGHT BAR 4WD boat UTE driving ATV lamp.
two wire, so pretty basic to me.
Fact is, its so bright and awesome, I don't see why I should use my High Beam at the same time,
and if there is an issue going High speed, I can switch low beam.

Here`s what I did:
-I installed the LED Bar ground to the battery
-Each light on the Quad have a connector, the high beam is the yellow wire one on my Grizz 700, 09.
At each connector I cut the yellow wire, then seal the unused end.
Then I used a wire to make a bridge, " joining "both wire together.
From this "bridge" I solder the Positve wire from the LED bar.

DONE.





I still have my low beam, and when I switch to High beam , I have the sun illuminating my road.
I wont be affected by the useless high halogen beam current draw.

That's what I did, what do you think ?
Its working perfectly.

Last edited by eclipse71; 07-06-2013 at 12:57 PM. Reason: photo
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post #14 of 37 Old 10-23-2013, 10:24 AM
 
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I just wired mine straight in no relay with a 25 amp waterproof toggle switch mounted by drilling a hole in the side of the mount for the light bar. seems to work great so far at least
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post #15 of 37 Old 10-23-2013, 11:44 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boatguy123 View Post
I just wired mine straight in no relay with a 25 amp waterproof toggle switch mounted by drilling a hole in the side of the mount for the light bar. seems to work great so far at least
It will work just fine that way but I would want the circuit to be fused in some manner. Did you run your positive straight from the battery ? If so you want a fuse as close as possible to your power source. In the event of a chaffed wire or some other source of a short to ground it will prevent you from burning you quad down. Just precaution in case bad luck strikes.

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Last edited by WH GRIZZ; 10-23-2013 at 11:45 AM.
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