660 valve adjustment - Yamaha Grizzly ATV Forum
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post #1 of 16 Old 10-01-2009, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
 
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660 valve adjustment

I am about to adjust the valves on my 06 660.
I'm pretty sure I can do it by reading the repair manual but I would like to know what wrenches I need.
I read somewhere that the exhaust valves need some special square wrench to loosen the lock nut or turn the adjuster nut.
If someone has done a valve job on their 660 can you please let me know what tools are needed.
I'd hate to open her up and then realize I need special tools.
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post #2 of 16 Old 10-01-2009, 11:00 PM
 
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i have done mine twice and there are no special tools needed. the intake and exhaust valve adjusters have a 12mm (i think) lock nut and the top of the stud is a small square. i'm sure you can buy the correct square socket for doing this, but once the lock nut is loose the adjuster turns very easily, so i just used a small crescent wrench to adjust and then hold the stud while i tightened the lock nut.

i just checked my service manual and the tool Yamaha reccomends is "tappet adjusting tool part # YM-08035, 90890-01311". i'm sure your dealer would be happy to sell you that tool, but i bet it won't be cheap! LOL

'07 660, BLUE!
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Last edited by Hammer07; 10-01-2009 at 11:09 PM. Reason: found part #
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post #3 of 16 Old 10-01-2009, 11:36 PM
 
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The tip I got on this was to use a pair of needle-nose vice-grips to hold the square head on the stud. You don't need to necessarily lock them on, they just work well to hold it. Beyond that, the ajustment is more about getting the feeler gauge into position than anything else.

The really important thing I can tell you is that the machined edges of the intake valve access hole in the head are RAZOR sharp. I cut a very neat slice clear to the bone on one of my fingers when I was loosening the lock nut on the first valve! Watch out for that...otherwise, you'll be golden with a pair of needle-nose vice-grips.
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post #4 of 16 Old 10-03-2009, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
 
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Another question is that the manual says to loosen the lock nut before checking the valve clearance.
why?
Shouldn't you check the clearance with everything tight?
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post #5 of 16 Old 10-03-2009, 10:40 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petgriz View Post
Another question is that the manual says to loosen the lock nut before checking the valve clearance.
why?
Shouldn't you check the clearance with everything tight?
That's just some dopey wording in the manual. If you want to see where your clearance is before you start adjusting...which would certainly be wise, since you don't want to adjust 'em if the don't need it, just run the feeler in before you loosen the nut.
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post #6 of 16 Old 10-05-2009, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
 
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Ok,
I checked the intakes and I can get a 0.004 feeler gauge in and out quite easily. A 0.005 feeler gauge goes in with a little force. A 0.006 feeler gauge does not go in at all.
Do you think they are ok or should I loosen the lock nuts and readjust? The spec for the 660 is
0.004 - 0.006.
My quad has 2100 km's (1300 miles). I wasn't sure if they were ever adjusted so I thought I better check.
I think the manual says to adjust for the first time at 250 miles and then again at 1500 miles.
I just want to be good for another 1500 miles before I check them again.

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post #7 of 16 Old 10-05-2009, 10:44 PM
 
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sounds like they are good, i would leave them alone .

'07 660, BLUE!
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post #8 of 16 Old 10-05-2009, 10:52 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammer07 View Post
sounds like they are good, i would leave them alone .

Ditto. Just make sure they are all in spec. Don't forget to check the exhaust valves to...they're the fun ones
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post #9 of 16 Old 10-05-2009, 10:56 PM Thread Starter
 
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all 3 intake are in spec.
Is there anything special I should know about the exhaust valves.
I took off the front rack and plastic. Is this all I need to remove to get to them. I read somewhere to take off the fender too but I really don't want to do that.
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post #10 of 16 Old 10-05-2009, 10:57 PM
 
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Anyone know if the exhaust usually require more attention than the intake?

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post #11 of 16 Old 10-05-2009, 11:39 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petgriz View Post
all 3 intake are in spec.
Is there anything special I should know about the exhaust valves.
I took off the front rack and plastic. Is this all I need to remove to get to them. I read somewhere to take off the fender too but I really don't want to do that.
The exhaust valve are a beach to get the feelers into 'cause there is an angle involved...the feeler has to be bent to get them in.
If, by "the fender" you mean the front plastic that includes the wheel wells...the answer is pretty much, yes. It's not so much a question of access (unless you have lager arms) but, with the front plastic in place, it is almost impossible to see what you are doing. Removing the plastic is not as bad as it looks, 4 bolts on the left, 3 or 4 on the right and a couple in front. You probably don't need to completely remove it (that requires yanking an ars-load of connectors and tubes), just pull the rear end up and block it with something to keep it that way while you work. If you stick your face in the left wheel well and look at the engine, you can see the part of the plastic that gets in your way.
All that said, I adjusted mine while ALL of the plastics were off...so I'm kinda guessing on the bit about holding the rear of the front plastic up to get it out of the way. Good luck, they're loads of fun to adjust

Quote:
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Anyone know if the exhaust usually require more attention than the intake?
Can't say. Both of mine were out of spec.
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post #12 of 16 Old 10-06-2009, 09:08 AM
 
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DizGrizz hit the nail on the head.
i took the plastic off and just used that as an opportunity to put dielectric grease in all of the connectors and to clean the radiator out really well. you think you get the rad clean when you wash the Grizz but when you take the plastic off and you can actually see it, you'll be surprised at how much crud you don't get out.
the only other advice i can give you for taking the front plastic off is that the connectors are NOT all different. multiple male ends can plug into multiple female ends. mark them with a sharpie or something so that you put the right ones back together.

'07 660, BLUE!
'09 550 w/EPS, BLUE!
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post #13 of 16 Old 10-06-2009, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
 
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My exhaust valves are on the high side. I can get the 0.008 feeler gauge in. The spec is from 0.006 - 0.008.
Do you think I should tighten them up a bit?
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post #14 of 16 Old 10-06-2009, 07:23 PM
 
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Take a dry wall screw that uses a S1 drive and a 3" pice of 3/8 dowel.
drill small hole into the end of the dowel and incert the screw into the dowel. you now have a screwdriver to turn and hold the square end on the valve adjuster.

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post #15 of 16 Old 10-06-2009, 10:12 PM Thread Starter
 
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Well I got er done.
I left the intakes as they were. I can slip a 0.004 feeler gauge in loosely but had to kind of force the 0.005 feeler gauge in so I left them as is.
With the exhaust I can slip an 0.008 feeler gauge in. It was a little tight but I decided to adjust them to about 0.007. Now the 0.006 feeler gauge goes in loosely and I can get the tip of the 0.007 feeler gauge in.
I did not remove the front plastic or front tires to get to the ehxaust valves. I worked from the right side to get the feeler gauge in on both valves and used a small mirror to see when it was in.
A lot of it is done by feel rather than sight.
I used a robertson deck screw clamped in a vice grip to turn the adjuster.

Thanks to everyone for the replies.
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