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2007 grizzly 700 major problem at 190 hours

This is a discussion on 2007 grizzly 700 major problem at 190 hours within the Grizzly Engine & Transmission forums, part of the Grizzly Forums category; hello to all i need some help with my 2007 grizzly 700. it has 190 hours on it. recently it has developed a major problem. ...


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#1
01-28-2010, 09:29 PM
2007 grizzly 700 major problem at 190 hours

hello to all
i need some help with my 2007 grizzly 700.
it has 190 hours on it. recently it has developed a major problem.
it has been to the dealer and they have NEVER seen this problem before.
here goes:
bike starts and idles fine
when in you slowly start giving it throttle, the bike runs rough and stumbles at about 1500 rpm and up.
if you pin the throttle fast, it revs fine up to red line
if you try to stop mid way between idle and redline is runs like crap
i have done everything possible. i even borrowed a buddies 2007 700 and swapped all the sensors, throttle body assembly, fuel tank with fuel pump, coil and plug wire, computers, etc.
i even pulled my head off and got it cleaned and re-done hopeing that helped
notta.
no codes come up on the computer.
ive changed plugs a zillion times
the engine compression test was great.leak down great.
with the stock computer in the bike the problem is less noticable but there
running the vdi copperhead, the problem is WAAAAYY more noticable.
ive had the copperhead in for a while and no problems before.
with way more spark output, i thing any problem with the grizzly will be amplified with the copperhead
lyle at vdi sent me a new copperhead in case it was it.
notta.
tryed all vdi maps for lean settings, rich settings,etc
no difference
ive concluded the engine is fine
the motor needs air fuel and spark
air should be fine
so either the spark of fuel is my problem im guessing
this battle is ongoing for months
any help would be great
im ready to kick it off a cliff!!!!
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#2
01-29-2010, 01:59 AM
COULD PROBLEM BE IN WIRING, LOOSING CURRENT IN WEAK PLACE IN WIRES?
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#3
01-29-2010, 07:10 AM
check your flywheel key to see if it sheared and has your timing off a little. the only other think of is a wiring issue but that doesn`t make sense if it runs fine wide open. I would of guessed tps but you tried a different 1. you could put a inline spark tester and watch to see if it`s a spark problem u can use a timing light also. did you swap the crank sensors.

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#4
02-01-2010, 01:07 AM
hello
no i didnt try the crank sensor. any sensor failure should triger a code right?
also will the bike run or idle at all with a bad crank sensor?
my bike starts good, idles smooth, then bogs out and stutters when the throttle is applied?
thanks
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#5
02-01-2010, 07:25 AM
is the reverse light flashing when this is happening??
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#6
02-01-2010, 08:16 PM
the reverse light is not coming on.
i swapped reverse sensors with my buddies and no change
i also grounded out the reverse sensor and still no luck
im still stumped
i will keep on it tho
thanks for your help
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#7
02-01-2010, 09:05 PM
Sounds like it's within the Fuel Injector or wiring to it.
Your not getting a even flow of fuel. When full throtle you get the good seting. but the minute you drop or minimize flow it brakes up.
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#8
02-01-2010, 09:44 PM
Talking

Wow....that's a good one...I wonder if....wait....do you have a green Grizzly???
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#9
02-01-2010, 10:22 PM
my guess is crank sensor and/or wiring to coil or injector.just a thought but you say that you have VDI unit when you installed is it possible wiring harness could have not been secured properly wiring moving slightly over a long period of time now causing a slight break in a wire??? good luck
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#10
02-02-2010, 07:42 AM
he has swapped the whole throttle body and put the stock ecu in an even tried a 2nd vdi.
The crank sensor my not be bad enough to set a code but bad enough to create a drive-ability problem I have seen it happen to cars and trucks alot. Mostly Chryslers some have a adjustable air gap and if that is off they get all stupid.
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#11
02-05-2010, 12:31 AM
A buddy of mine had the same problem,we stripped all the plastics off and found a bared live wire that was shorting out on the frame.The bared wire we found was on the right side about even with the front of the seat and ran along the frame.Hope this helps.
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#12
02-07-2010, 12:02 AM
strangely enough I have experienced this same xact problem..... With a Toyota LOL... it ended up being an injector... dono if that helps BUT
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#13
08-09-2010, 03:51 PM
Hi luckylogger666, your problem is so simular to mine. Did you resolve it and if so how?
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#14
08-09-2010, 04:11 PM
I have a lot to learn, am new here!
I have two Grizzly 660's, the one (2004) I re-built the engine with my son-in-law and runs like clockwork, my Grizzly 660 (2003) is acting up. I've checked all I can think of incl. reverse switch, CDI, carb, and the whole electrics as far as possible. The engine still stutters (both stationary + under load while driving) at part-throttle about 1/4-3/4. Starts first go, idle is great and full-throttle is also full power but as soon as I let off the throttle, it splutters/misses with an occasional soft bang+flame out of the exhaust on overrun. Search me as to what I have overlookrd. Any ideas from anyone?
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#15
08-10-2010, 03:22 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by indaba View Post
I have a lot to learn, am new here!
I have two Grizzly 660's, the one (2004) I re-built the engine with my son-in-law and runs like clockwork, my Grizzly 660 (2003) is acting up. I've checked all I can think of incl. reverse switch, CDI, carb, and the whole electrics as far as possible. The engine still stutters (both stationary + under load while driving) at part-throttle about 1/4-3/4. Starts first go, idle is great and full-throttle is also full power but as soon as I let off the throttle, it splutters/misses with an occasional soft bang+flame out of the exhaust on overrun. Search me as to what I have overlookrd. Any ideas from anyone?
Whats happening to you sounds like a carb jetting issue for sure, I'm sure somebody with a bit more carb experience will pipe in with some help, but from what I know of carb tuning, if it runs good at idle and at wide open throttle, it may be your needle is in the wrong position.
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