99 600 grizzly wont go

[gedsar]

Hi Guys
Chasing some ideas on my young cousins bike. He just picked it up off his dairy farmer uncle for $250. The uncle was cruising along bitumen and it just died like the kill switch was hit so he brought a new one.I'm trying to get it going for him.

I have cleaned the carb out
Checked timing of flywheel and cam
New plug and coil
Checked valve clearance
The airbox is out so I can see the fuel getting sucked in, it's got compression and gets a good blue spark on the outside of the head. It winds over but doesn't even look like firing, just makes a whoosh noise out exhaust every 5 or 10 secs. No sign of life even when spraying contact cleaner in the carb. It's got me stuffed, anyone got any ideas?.

[keith20mm]

You say you checked timing of flywheel and cam, so I presume you have the head cover off and are able to view the cam sprocket.

Check that, at the TDC, 1) the flyweights are engaged to the cam pins, 2) the dimple on the decompressor cam is facing perpendicular to the valve cover plane, 3) the dimple hole in the camshaft end is aligned perpendicular to the valve cover plane, 4) that 2 dimples in the sprocket are in alignment with the valve cover plane, 5) that the camshaft oiling holes in the leftmost and rightmost lobes are perpendicular with the valve cover plane.

If all that is correct, then loosen, but do not remove, the large chain tensioner bolt, remove the two small tensioner bolts, remove the tensioner assembly, disassemble the large bolt from the tensioner.

Next, remove the two bolts securing the sprocket to the camshaft, and the two guides for the fly weights. Verify that the 3rd sprocket dimple, not visible with the fly weight guides in place, is perpendicular to the valve cover plane. If that is all correct, remove the camshaft and verify that the decompressor pin is working correctly. Do this by rotating the decompressor lever inside the camshaft. Verify that the decompressor pin protrudes, then retracts. You can easily disassemble the decompressor pin, spring, and lever from the inside of the camshaft, to verify the spring isn't broken, and that the decompressor pin isn't worn off/damaged.

With the valve cover off, also inspect the rocker arms.

If all of that is correct, then remove the head. Stick a rag into cam chain gallery to block entrance of any foreign objects/dirt.

Turn intake port upward, and pour clean mineral spirits or iso alcohol into the intake, and check for weeping inside the combustion chamber. Dump the solvent, air dry the head, and do the same on the each exhaust port, verifying no leakage from the exhaust side, into the combustion chamber.

If any leakage is found, mark each valve as to left or right, disassemble cotters from valve stems using c-clamp, welder's vise clamp, spring compressor, etc. I like to keep all springs/retainers on a piece of wire, and cotters stuck to it all with small magnets.

Put each valve into a drill and rotate slowly to check for bent valve heads. Inspect seats, and regrind/replace valves/seats, as needed.

The valve seals are easily pried off the guides with pliers or small screwdriver.

Inspect the valve guides, and clean them thoroughly. The guides should be 7.0 to 7.012mm (.2756" to .2761"). An easy check is to place the valve into the guide, put your finger over the top end hole, and pull the valve out of the guide. A nice POP sound will tell you it's 'close enough.'

If valve seat grinding is required, the shop will need a just-under 7mm expanding pilot for the stone.

Depending on valve distortion, you may either replace, or grind, the valves. Even if you get new valves, have the shop check the new valves for concentricity, and touch them up.

Remove exhaust gaskets from their bores.

Inspect the head mating surfaces for non-warpage. If warped, remove the two head studs and resurface the head mating surface on 400 grit sandpaper, using mineral spirits and a figure eight rotation.

Thoroughly wash the head, guides, cam area, chamber, in hot, soapy water, and air blast dry. Inspect spark plug hole. Remove any prior install RTV bits.

Reassemble the head, using new seals, applying a small amount of assembly lube to the upper OD of valve guide to ease the new seal slipping on. Apply small amount of assembly lube to the valve stems and seal lips. Insert valve, and reassemble springs (red painted ends upward), spring retainer, and cotters.

After valve reassembly, bop each valve stem upper end with a plastic mallet a couple of times to insure cotters are properly seated.

Repeat the solvent leak test to verify correct valve sealing.

Rotate the crankshaft, inspecting the cam chain, all around. If chain is bad, you'll have to remove left stator cover, flywheel (3 head bolts work with 3-lobed puller and flywheel bolt), oil pipe, and rear chain guide, then replace the chain. Note that the rear chain guide mount has an ear that keeps chain aligned on crank sprocket, so it has to be loosened, but not removed, to remove/install chain.

Using rubber bands, a short piece of wire, and a couple of magnets, hang the chain to the frame above the cylinder. Mop the cylinder head with trichlor, inspect the piston head, and the oil gallery tube and its gasket.

Mop the head mating surface with trichlor. Using a new gasket and copper spray, apply a light coat to each gasket side, install gasket over chain and onto cylinder head. Install guide pins.

Loosly install a spark plug.

Thread chain through head and install head. Head bolt torque is 21 ft-lb, head nut torque is 16 ft-lb. Little bolts are 7.2 ft-lb.

Insert fore cam chain guide. Turn crankshaft to TDC, using flywheel single I mark to stator cover view hole key. Install chain to sprocket with 3 sprocket dimples visible, center, topmost dimple perpendicular to valve cover plane. Lay camshaft into journals, with outer lobe oiler holes at right angle to valve cover plane. Align decompressor lever pins with flyweight slots, and dimple on decompressor lever perpendicular to plane of valve cover. Camshaft end dimple should align, also, with the decompressor lever dimple, and middle, top, sprocket dimple. Check this all very carefully. Go pee on a tree, and have lunch. Now verify this all again. Crankshaft at TDC, center sprocket dimple straight up (perpendicular to valve cover plane), two sprocket dimples just even with plane of valve cover, camshaft outer lobe oiler holes straight up (perpendicular to valve cover plane), camshaft end dimple straight up, dimple in decompressor lever straight up. Install one flyweight guide and bolt, cinch up, but don't torque yet. Rotate crankshaft to bring other sprocket/flyweight hole into view, and install bolt, cinch up, but not torqued. Do this a couple of time, to insure the sprocket is nicely aligned with camshaft. Torque sprocket bolts to 14 ft-lb.

Loosen all four valve adjuster nuts, and back out the adjusters a bit.

Remove prior install dried RTV from valve cover. Mop valve cover and upper head surface with trichlor. Loosen camshaft end plug bolt. Sparingly apply RTV to valve cover surface. Install the guide pins. Lower valve cover onto head mating surface, observing that the camshaft plug is also aligning properly. Hopefully, when you disassembled the valve cover from the engine, you made a cardboard punch board to maintain bolt order... Install all valve cover bolts, beginning with center, stainless bolt, and working a crisscross pattern torque to 7.2 ft-lb.

On chain tensioner, using thumbnail, release latch and push plunger to outermost position. Install tensioner, without the spring/large bolt. Install large bolt with its spring. Cam chain is now tensioned.

Reinstall exhaust gaskets, intake manifold (if removed). Set crankshaft to TDC, if you have moved it. Set adjuster clearance to:intake, 2-4 thou, exhaust, 5-7 thou. Brass shim stock set makes nice feeler gauges.

Remove spark plug, hand rotate crankshaft at least two revolutions, to verify piston doesn't hit valves. Reinstall spark plug, torque to 13 ft-lb.

Attach exhaust pipe. Attach carb. Attach fuel tank. Attach spark cap. Check oil level. Test crank the engine, before adding engine head stay/plastic/carrier/winch hookups.

[CLHC]

Likely a silly question, do you have spark??

[Grizzly4fun]

This sounds similar to an issue I had when the woodruff key sheared and the flywheel rotated on the crankshaft enough to cause the spark to be at the wrong time not allowing a hint of firing, just an occasional backfire. Mine happened suddenly with the only symptom of missing at mid to higher rpm. Look up broken or missing woodruff key in the search and rule this issue out.
Good luck!

[keith20mm]

Originally Posted by Grizzly4fun

... the woodruff key sheared and the flywheel rotated on the crankshaft enough to cause the spark to be at the wrong time not allowing a hint of firing, just an occasional backfire. Mine happened suddenly with the only symptom of missing at mid to higher rpm. Look up broken or missing woodruff key in the search and rule this issue out.
Good luck!

Excellent point!!

An inductive timing light, connected to B+, ground, and spark wire, shined through the index view hole in left stator cover will help eliminate this cause without having to removing the flywheel.

On the 600, at cranking RPM, from 0 up to 500 RPM, the spark is 0 degrees advance, hence the solitary 'I' index mark should align exactly with the view hole keyway center if the flywheel is properly positioned. Any other view of index mark indicates that the flywheel is misaligned. Again, head bolt length bolts (part number 90105-08505-00) fit a 3-lobe puller, using flywheel bolt at puller center. Be sure to use the puller pilot, either flat or cone-shaped, to prevent damage to puller center bolt. These flywheels can be real stiff to remove.

(The CDI box advances spark timing at 500 RPM to 12 degrees, and remains at 12 degrees until 2000 RPM, at which time the spark advances linearly until 28 degrees up to 4000 RPM, and then flat 28 degrees above 4000 RPM.)

Remove spark plug while viewing timing to prevent battery drain. Keep plug away from plug hole while cranking over with timing light.

[Grizzly4fun]

If timing light not available, set timing mark for flywheel and then with camshalf sprocket cover removed, ensure alignment of timing mark for cam/sprocket and mark on cylinder head. Make sure both marks are aligned, flywheel and camshaft/sproket.
Good luck!

[gedsar]

Some excellant info here top forum. I just machined an old spark plug down to check compression, I cleaned all the gunky oil out of decompressor when I had the rocker cover off and got it moving nicley.
99% sure the flywheel hasn't spun, stuck a screwie down the plug hole and "felt" TDC then checked the mark on flywheel and it was right 10 out of 10 times.
I'm thinking the decompressor isn't letting valve close properly, comp test should verify or I'm not getting strong spark under compression.
Has anyone got info on how to check stator output?.

[keith20mm]

Originally Posted by gedsar

...I'm thinking the decompressor isn't letting valve close properly, comp test should verify or I'm not getting strong spark under compression.
Has anyone got info on how to check stator output?.

If its, in large, not possible to pull the manual starter for a crank, i.e., you feel the load really come up on the pull cord, then the compression is substantial, and 'enough' to crank.

The decompressor pin should retract into the cam about 60 percent into the compression stroke. It can only come into play as the pin rotates into alignment with the rocker arm elephant foot, just after the begin (BDC) of compression stroke.

I seriously doubt the decompressor pin could prevent a start, ever, as it is only effective for the radial duration of its alignment with the rocker foot.

Now, if the decompressor pin was at fault, it would affect performance above cranking speed RPMs... but you say you cannot get a crank up.

Next, if you get a spark in open air, you probably get a spark under compression. However, you could try another plug. DP8EA-9 or DPR8EA-9, only difference is second one is a resistance plug. I've not had much success a bead blast cleaning plugs, but trichlor followed by air blast is pretty good.

As stator/pickup output, the manual doesn't go into that. However, you can meter check all parts as follows:

The stator and pickup are two separate coils, mounted apart from each other.

There are seven total wires leaving the engine grommet. Four of these go directly to the CDI box, under left rear fender.

Unplug connector with four wires from CDI box, inspect for grime/dirt/oil/poor contact. Plug/unplug this connector several times.

The four wires are colored Br(own), G(reen), R(ed), W(hite). The red and white are the pickup + and pickup -, respectively. Set ohm meter + lead to red pickup +, ohm meter - lead to white pickup - lead. Set ohms range to 100. You should read 459 to 561 ohms resistance on the pickup coil wires.

If much outside that range, pickup coil is (probably) shorted. It would be a good idea to also check from both those wires to frame ground, and that should be an open circuit.

The other two wires from the stator to the CDI are Brown and Green, the 'source' coil, CHG + and CHG -, respectively. Check this as follows: Meter on 100 ohms range, meter + lead to Brown wire terminal, meter - lead to Green wire terminal. You should read 270 to 330 ohms. If much under, then the source coil may be bad.

The spark coil is checked as follows:
Disconnect primary lead from coil, Orange wire. Set meter to 1x range, and measure resistance from coil primary terminal to ground. Should read .18 to .28 ohms.

Next, set meter to 1000 ohm range.
Secondary, spark wire coil terminal, to ground should read 6320 ohms (6.32k ohms) to 9480 ohms (9.48k ohms).

But, you originally stated you have good spark, so this is all just academic.

Check the engine ground lug just above the oil filter cover, make sure of good connection there. Make sure spark coil mounting lug bolts are good, also, as this sets the coil ground path.

If you have a scope handy, you could visually monitor the above connections, except the spark coil secondary, spark wire, output.

If you should do so, note that pickup coil is mounted outside the rotor. The rotor has a long lug welded on the OD to activate the pickup coil, so, should you scope the pickup leads, Red and White, you'll see a rather long signal, about 90 degrees of crank rotation, and only a single pulse per crank rotation.

The source coil, the really expensive one, is mounted on the inside of the rotor, and is a multi-pole coil. You'll see many pulses per crank rotation, should you scope the Brown and Green wires.

The other three wires, white, white, and white, leaving the inner stator coil are the AC charging wires. These three wires go directly to the regulator, under left rear fender, the thing with the heat sink on it. The other side of the regulator goes to ground and to the diode, then to the battery. I seriously doubt this would play into your problem, since, as you originally stated, you had a spark.

By the way, the spark I've observed on this machine isn't a powerful, blue, snapping spark, like you see on a magneto lawn mower, say. It's a much smaller spark. But spark only needs to be 'sufficient' to ignite the fuel/air, and more spark potential isn't really needed.

One thing I'll point out, even though you mentioned spraying into the intake... with carb mounted to intake, and air box off the carb intake, spark cap on plug, plug installed, all ready to run, fuel on, tank connected to carb, etc, did you happen to give the carb the 'open palm choke hold', palm over the intake, to force suction from the fuel bowl/pilot into the intake ports? Doing so, you should see a back splat of fuel onto your palm if fuel is, in fact, passing from the carb into the intake.

And I'll mention another detail, the 'starter' cable from the dash to the left upper carb. Be sure to oil that cable so the 'starter' plug can move into, and out of, it's bore. The lever has three positions: down, off, middle, cool start, and flipped all way up, exceptional cold starting.

[keith20mm]

In passing, I'll mention a couple of details, should you go into the left stator cover side and remove the rotor...

Under the rotor, there lives an oil pipe, a 3-legged thing. This pipe supplies oil to the crankshaft. The oil gallery coming in, at about the 2-o'clock position, lead to the center, where a pair of seals direct oil into the crankshaft. These two seals, should they be damaged, will starve the crank, as oil will escape into the stator cover, instead of feeding the crank. These two seals should be checked, and replaced if any damage. They are a pair of 40mm OD, 30mm ID, 7mm thick, single lip, spring loaded seals, available from any industrial bearing supplier, McMaster, or, the Yamaha part supplier. Easily replaced, lub with white lithium grease prior to installation.

If the rotor is off, and the oil pipe removed, do inspect the Woodruff key, its slot, and mating slot in the rotor. While in there, inspect the starter idler assembly gear teeth. Note the single removable washer on the idler assembly. As the starter idler can only be removed with the rotor off, this would be the time to check that out.

When placing the stator cover back on, the rotor, having exceptionally strong magnets, will try to jump off the shaft, onto the coil, mounted inside the stator cover. To prevent this from happening, first lithium grease the pull starter basket journal OD, insert it into the stator cover bearing, from outside, and then place the cover, with basket, onto the engine. The pull starter basket is pushed in, against the rotor, to keep the rotor from jumping left, off its key on the crankshaft, while seating the stator cover.

[gedsar]

Geez Keith you are the man, thanks heaps for the info. I made a compression tester at work today and am only getting 25psi, I'll try checking the decompressor out, but after what you siad i think I might just pull the head off for a look. When I had the rocker cover off checking the cam timing I gave it a good clean up and got it moving nicely anyway.

[keith20mm]

After valve cover/cam/sprocket removal, lift out the fore chain guide. It just sits in the chain gallery, having two ears at top for alignment.

In removing the head, loosen the little, rear, lower bolt first, with 5mm driver, then the upside down nuts on studs (front then rear), then the four head bolts (rear left, front right, front left, rear left).

Be sure to not damage the rubber oil gallery cylinder gasket between cylinder upper surface and head, nor lose the oil gallery tube sitting inside that gasket. (In case you have pull cylinder, there is a similar tube/gasket between engine case and cylinder bottom. Watch for the two alignment dowel 'pins' (actually tubes), also (each surface in the entire engine has a pair of alignment dowels.)

As to reassembly, for the head/cylinder gasket, the Winderosa/Athena/Moose (appear identical) layer gasket is superior to the Cometic. The Cometic is very thick composite with a stainless center rolled/pressed ring. The interior plane of the Cometic is a stainless layer, with composite on each side, laminated. The dowel pin holes in the Cometic gasket are too small to fit the dowel pins. Therefore, you'll have to carefully carve out these openings to set the gasket. It is also much thicker, more than twice as thick, as the Winderosa/Athena/Moose gasket. If you try to just jam the gasket onto the dowel pins, the entire gasket will warp, and later, you'll be wondering if you the head torque actually pulled it into contact all around.

The Winderosa/Athena/Moose gasket is two formed metal sheets with a third, composite, layer in between, all riveted together to assure precision alignment. This gasket most closely resembles (i.e., pretty much exact) the OEM gasket, uh, also available.

The Cometic engine case to cylinder gasket is a single layer composite gasket, and is fine for use. The Winderosa/Athena/Moose/OEM gasket construction is as the head gasket, two metal sheets with composite between, all riveted to insure alignment.

After comparing gaskets, I chose the Cometic base gasket and Winderosa/Athena/Moose/OEM head gasket.

If you just want a single top end gasket set, use the Winderosa 810833 top end set. The Moose set is M810833. The Athena set is 8611007. The Cometic set is C7213.

The Cometic set only includes the base gasket and the head gasket.

The Winderosa/Moose/Athena 811833 set includes the four valve stem seals, exhaust pipe seals, head and base gaskets, base o-ring, tappet cover o-rings, tensioner gasket, stator gasket, clutch housing cover gasket, right clutch cover gasket, gaskets for the thermo unit, shift drum detent plug, oil filter cover, etc. Not included are the oil filler screw plug o-ring, large oil drain plug o-ring (you did know that there's two oil drain plugs down there, didn't you? One in right case half is a hex driver, and, of course, the large plug that lets the screen/spring/oil tube drop out.) So the ad claim of "This Complete Gasket set includes all gaskets & seals required to rebuild your complete ATV engine." isn't 'exactly' accurate, unless 'engine' means 'mostly the thing that produces the power for the rest of the 'engine'' For example, the two tube gaskets are not provided. Neither are the rocker pivot o-rings, and a bunch of other o-rings, inside various collars here and there.

The Yamaha bike XT600 top end gasket set is identical to the YFM600 top end set. This only applies to top end gasket set.

Anyway, I digress.

On reassembly, I mopped out the oil gallery pocket with trichlor, and mopped the tube gasket with trichlor. Then, using a toothpick, I applied the slightest ring of black RTV around the gasket lower OD, and placed the gasket. Then I copper sprayed the head gasket, set the dowel pins, laid in the gasket, then the head. All mating surfaces were carefully mopped with trichlor to insure excellent sealing with the copper sprayed gasket.

Again, many pictures here:

Index of /ATV/Head

Index of /ATV

[bigdriver]

the kill switch is knowen to go on them, check the kill switch.

[gedsar]

On testing the compression, got 25psi..... so hooked up shop air and it nearly blew the hair off my leg coming out of the flywheel timing hole... hmmmm piton huh. Pulled the head off and found heaps of slop in piston, pulled the barrel off and found as in the pic. Now have to find another barrel cheap somewhere. Thanks for the replies.

[keith20mm]

Replacement sleeve (cylinder liner):
Ebay 230376348012 $63 + shipping,

or

YAMAHA 600 GRIZZLY 101mm CYLINDER SLEEVE YFM 600 98-01 : eBay Motors (item 300146176850 end time Feb-14-10 04:24:20 PST)

or 300146176850

or get one from BayArea Powersports

or directly from LA Sleeve:
L.A.SLEEVE Store

Once you've replaced the sleeve, you'll need to bore/hone it for whatever piston you choose.

Notes on pistons: Stock piston diameter is 95mm. For OEM die cast piston, 1.8 thou clearance to bore. For forged pistons (Wiseco), the clearance is nearly 4 thou over piston skirt measurement.

What's it mean? It means a forged piston will rattle like a BB in a boxcar, once oil has reached operating temperature. If you love a rattling engine, get a forged piston.

If you like a quiet engine, get a die cast piston (OEM, Namura, etc)

See Wiseco standard compression 8.5 and 11.5 side by side, here (for 600 Grizzly):

Index of /ATV/Pistons



I tested both these, and, due to the annoying rattle (the shop precision bored the newly lined cylinder exactly as specified by Wiseco, ending with a near-mirror finish) and ended up pulling that noisy junk out and installing a .25mm over die cast piston. I would have used OEM part, but it would have required another bore up to the first OEM oversize, as opposed to me being able to just hone up to the correct bore.

The engine is much quieter than with the forged piston clearance. Oh, the 11.5 ratio piston on the right? You'll need 100 octane or octane booster, crank balance, carb jetting, and a better exhaust.

Like the other fellow said "What's wrong with Keep It Simple?"

In passing, the Wiseco pistons, having greatly differing masses of metal in various areas of the underbody, have great differences in the body profile. The hi compression piston is 4 thou narrower at crown than fore-aft at skirt. I.e., it's heavily cam ground. The standard compression is somewhat more 'round', but still oval at the crown. (All pistons will be 'oval' to some degree, depending on metal mass and locations of metal masses.)

My main gripe with OEM pistons is that they don't come as a kit, piston, pin, circlips, rings. Most aftermarket piston do come as a kit.

All ring sets have to be end-gap checked, and, possibly, ground (or filed)

If you have a lathe, you can make a puller, as shown
Index of /ATV/SleeveRemoval



Alternatively, I'll lend you my puller setup if you'll pay postage both ways.

You could just set it up on a shop press and mash away, 'they' say it should be heated first. I did, both removing, and installing.

Note: Be sure to measure the new sleeve OD and check the aluminum casting ID. The two shouldn't be more that about .5-.75 thou different, and the casting ID obviously must be the smaller. This is a 0 clearance press fit. Once the liner is in place, you have to surface the upper deck using a surface plate (or glass plate), 400 to 600 grit paper, and mineral spirits to flow out the cuttings. It took me 4 hours of manual labor on a granite plate to get the cast iron liner flush with the aluminum, and the entire deck flat. I ended up using about 8 sheets of 400 grit and 3 sheets of 600 grit. .. and several pairs of nitrile rubber gloves were used up.

Barring all that, you may luck out and find a parted-out cylinder. I saw them go for around $250

[keith20mm]

Originally Posted by gedsar

\ Now have to find another barrel cheap somewhere. Thanks for the replies.

Can't you just bore that sleeve up?

[keith20mm]

Actual contents of Winderosa 810833 for Grizzly YFM600



Note: My prior remark on Winderosa and Athena cylinder base gaskets being same is not true. The Athena is a triple layer steel riveted construction. The Winderosa base gasket is same as Cometic base gasket, being just a composite, no rivets. My preference is Winderosa/Cometic base gasket, and Winderosa/Athena head gasket... all with copper spray each side. The Winderosa 810833 set is probably the most cost effective set. However, if your stator cover gasket requires replacement, then either obtain that alone (OEM or after market), or get the Athena 8613182 complete set. It has the left cover, plus valve stem seals.

Here is complete kit, lowest price I could locate, complete set:

PowersportSuperstore.com - Your choice for Street and Dirt Bike & ATV Parts, Accessories, and Apparel

This is Centaro, which is Athena.

[keith20mm]

Base gasket comparison, Winderosa on left, Athena on right


Head gasket comparison, Cometic on left, Winderosa on right



I looked at my old full gasket set package, it shows this:
Athena P400485850063 Suitable for Yamaha YFM 600 Grizzly '98-01
Pcs. No. 22
Athena S.p.A. - Motorcycle & Motorsport Division
and someone has written, in Marks-A-Lot, across top
8613182

[keith20mm]

Originally Posted by gedsar

Now have to find another barrel cheap somewhere. Thanks for the replies.

That picture there, is that the inner surface of the cast iron liner, or did you already remove the liner, and that the interior surface of the aluminum casting?

Looks more like the liner, in the lower portion, but at the top, it appears to be the pocket that the liner upper lip fits into.

Thx.

[gedsar]

It's the liner, dropped into LBS today they're gonna give it a bore and see if it cleans up within spec for an oversize piston.

[keith20mm]

Where/what is LBS. May be someplace I should know about.

The place I had my newly lined cylinder bored is:

Premier Machine
2739 Cottonwood Road
Harrison, AR 72601-7708
(870) 743-4412
Rick Cross

Does all kinds of ATV/boat/power/auto, and does it well.

A popsicle stick is real useful for putting cylinder back on, to push in the rings while inserting the piston.