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Greaseless Clutch assembly

12K views 36 replies 18 participants last post by  AZ08Grizz 
#1 ·
Has anyone here used the greaseless clutch kit. It comes with some type of self lubricating metal rollers and you have to get some metal sliders and a grizz 700 cam plate. All about $140. Its made by Hunter Works.
Oh this will be for my 04 grizz 660.
 
#6 ·
Thats what I was thinking muckboy. The kit has lighter weights so I would think it would give you more bottom end .
 
#8 ·
I might be mistaken but i thought lighter weights caused quicker shifting but no increase in tourqe.
 
#12 ·
I have no idea about the "performance" difference without the grease, but as stated the grease makes servicing and working on the primary a time consuming nasty job if you do things right. I just wouldn/t want to use something in there that would cause excessive wear on the ramps as the primary is aluminum, so the type of rollers that Coop45 had been working on with the "delrin" type outer shell looked good. An all metal roller would seem to be a little abrasive in there.
 
#13 ·
I would like to go greaseless on my kodiak. Be alot easier to clean if the belt case gets mud and water in it.
 
#14 ·
hunter works also told me they won`t work/hold up on the grizzly`s.

I have a set that coop made me will be doing some more testing when ever I get my motor done.
 
#15 ·
utv crap has some greaseless weights, the outer shell part looks to be made of nylon of some sort.
 
#16 ·
Lighter weights wont give you better bottom end. You're still starting off the line at the same gear ratio.........about the only thing lighter weights do is keep you in "low gear" longer through more of the RPM range. If you want to actually get better low-end, you'll need to do some motor work or get your clutch machined/shimmed. That's just my opinion.
 
#17 ·
x2 the only way to change the gear ratio on the Griz is to machine the sheaves or add shims.until someone comes out with tranny gears or ring and pinion sets.

I have been modding my Griz since the day I bought it and clutch work is the best bang for the buck
 
#19 ·
i ordered a set of the greaseless clutch weights and cam plate sliders from utv crap on friday, just waiting on them to come in. i will let you know how they work once i get them installed.
 
#20 ·
utv crap is selling the hunter works grease less set up. I have no idea why hw say the grease less set up for the rhino won`t work in the grizzlys but they insist they won`t hold up.
 
#21 ·
Ok... I talked to Todd at Hunter Works today, this is what he said to me. the greaseless weights will work in the Grizzlys, with no problems.
And the overdrive weights will also work, but... you will see no performance gains from the OD weights what so ever... so dont buy the OD weights for your Grizzly. Also if you use the greaseless weights, you will not use the o-rings and the outside covers on you clutches, as they will do nothing but collect dust.
He said (quote) the Utv Crap weights are not his brand, but are of like products. Hope this helps
 
#22 ·
wonder y he changed his mind.
 
#23 ·
Sales are down this week? LOL
 
#24 ·
When I tested my weights, made of a different material (teflon), I was getting flat spots on them where they were sliding under force. Teflon has a much lower friction - for greasless setup, but only 1/3 the tensle strength as delrin.

I did notice a 1 mph gain using the greasless rollers.
 
#26 ·
When I tested my weights, made of a different material (teflon), I was getting flat spots on them where they were sliding under force. Teflon has a much lower friction - for greasless setup, but only 1/3 the tensle strength as delrin.

I did notice a 1 mph gain using the greasless rollers.
I got flat spots on my factory roller weights from sliding.
that's why I was looking into the greaseless.
 
#25 · (Edited)
utv craps prices are quite abit cheaper, so sales might be down.
The guy at utv crap said his greaseless weights will also work in a Grizzly.
Ya'll dont think they'll work?
 
#27 ·
Since everyone seems to be up in the air as to wether the greaseless weights will work or not, I thought I would do a little more research on them.
I found a thread on another fourm were a guy had some of the hunter works greaseless weights and they were coming apart on him.
The brass sleave on the inside was coming out of them.
So I figured since I was in the market for a new set of weights, for now, I would just buy a new set of stock weights and deal with the nasty grease until the greaseless are a little more proven.
 
#31 ·
I am confused more now. I would really like to try this. The advantage to utv crap is that they have lighter weights. One-six do you have any info regarding this since you installed yours?
 
#34 ·
I have had the UTV crap clutch setup for some time now(1500kms) that is greaseless rollers, sliders and machined sheave. Also in the kit was a 1mm shim, and an EPI orange spring. I had 1500 kms on my bike with the stock clutch before this mod, the stock setup had little to no wear, but dirty. The new setup has no wear and has some belt wear dirt in there, all cleaned up and good to go.

I got more bottem end, mid range and top end with this kit, so I am happy, this is worth it, and I don't think there is anything to worry about reliability, I drive hard! My bike has more top end than I have power to turn as I can't turn the new top gear in my cvt(machined sheave) to my rev limiter.

IMO a machined sheave is actually easier on your bike, it more aggresively machines your roller wieght grooves so it allows more belt travel. This in turn gives you a lower bottem end and a higher top end. It also means that once your bike has fully traveled through its shift point and is back on motor only it will be revving lower at a higher speed, than before. It only hurts our bikes when you go to aggresive with tires or work the bike hard, since the belt actually rides out of the sheave you loose surface area, and therefore you are more likely to spin/smoke a belt.

I went with 18 gram wieghts which are lighter than stock and work for me as I am running 28" maxxis zilla 28x10x12 on all four corners, and I am running LTE dual exhaust with ehs lid and controller. I have been thinking about doing a cam also which will likely be my next mod,
 
#35 ·
Smidgy- my setup is simular to yours but the only utv crap I have is the weights and sliders. Madmikes mod # 2 is a more agressive cut on the primary than utv craps because you won't get no 1mm shim to go on without belt rub unless your belt is worn to the lowend of spec. His mod #3 is on the plate and has the same effect on topend that machining the roller ramps. I have a .5 shim with some belt minor beltrub. I also use a white spring. What was the cost of your setup?
 
#36 ·
They have to total cost at 323 on thier website. For a 700 I recommend 18 gram wieghts, because I never fully shifted with 16 gram wieghts. If you run a cdi then 16 gram wieghts may be possible I am not sure. The machining that mad mike does or coop did or airdam does, are all more aggressive than the UTV crap full setup. For me I got the most bang for my buck with the utv crap because I live in canada, I was not down while my sheave was away being machined(border is a pita) as the utv crap setup is a complete kit that does not effect your stock parts.
 
#37 ·
:rocker:UTV inc does not machine the face of the sheave. They machine the roller ramps deeper into the hub area for a lower starting ratio (equal to about a 1mm shim) and also machine the outer roller ramps for a little more travel for more top end speed if you have the HP to pull more top end. If you're not hitting the rev limiter with your current tires and a stock sheave you may not see an increase in top end with the UTV inc sheave.
 
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