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Ides for clutch holding tool

This is a discussion on Ides for clutch holding tool within the Grizzly Engine & Transmission forums, part of the Grizzly Forums category; As the title says I'm looking for a good way to hold the sheaves when I put the modded clutches back on. I have the ...


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#1
03-13-2010, 05:44 PM
Ides for clutch holding tool

As the title says I'm looking for a good way to hold the sheaves when I put the modded clutches back on. I have the Yamaha part number for the tool from my service manual but it doesn't come up on sites like cheapcycleparts.com or yamaparts. com and my local dealer gets huge markup over the online guys. Any ideas appreciated. I used my electric impact to remove them but don't want to hurt stuff over doing it. So cannot wait to be able to ride this thing. Any advice appreciated.
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#2
03-13-2010, 06:21 PM
I used a 1/2 x 6 in extension and set it on one of the large ribs to take mine off was going to do the same puting it back on, that is on a 700 would think yours has the ribs as well.
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#3
03-13-2010, 07:04 PM
Are you talking about the ribs on the sliding side of the primary? Mine does have ribs but how did you use a 1/2" drive extension in there to keep it from rotating. Sorry if thats dumb just can't picture the mechanics in my head.
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#4
03-13-2010, 07:08 PM
You can use a ratchet strap, around the clutch, and attach another ratchet strap form the one around the outer clutch and to the frame..
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#5
03-13-2010, 07:34 PM
Hey thanks I have a new set of 1" wide 1200 pound straps in the back of the Tundra its worth a shot will try tomorrow and post back.
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#6
03-13-2010, 07:57 PM
I also use a extension on the ribs on the inner part of the primary sheave and the frame holds good .I have done it many times with no ill effects.
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#7
03-13-2010, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Mad Mike View Post
I also use a extension on the ribs on the inner part of the primary sheave and the frame holds good .I have done it many times with no ill effects.
That's what I did too. Put it between one of the ribs near the bottom, and the floorboard support where it bolts to the frame.
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#8
03-14-2010, 06:00 AM
hey guys if you are going to do much clutch work it would pay to get this tool from ROCKYMOUNTAINATVMC.COM.

Tusk Clutch holding tool $15.99 part # 118-851
Vise Grips with adjustable jaws that open 5" wide and are recommended for square tooth style hubs with 8mm spanner pins on back.
They also have a clutch kit video on-line also.
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#9
03-14-2010, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by keeter View Post
hey guys if you are going to do much clutch work it would pay to get this tool from ROCKYMOUNTAINATVATVMC.COM.

Tusk Clutch holding tool $15.99 part # 118-851
Vise Grips with adjustable jaws that open 5" wide and are recommended for square tooth style hubs with 8mm spanner pins on back.
They also have a clutch kit video on-line also.
Can you hold the primary and secondary clutch with this tool? I had to use a ratchet strap to remove both and it was somewhat a pain since the strap kept wanting to fall off when I was taking the nuts off. If this tool works well on both, I might go ahead and get one. Here's the direct link for the tool: Tusk Clutch Holding Tool | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC
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#10
03-14-2010, 11:16 AM
I believe that tool is used for the inner wet clutch..
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#11
03-14-2010, 11:32 AM
naw it has 2 pins on back side of fingers to insert into the bolt holes on each side of 22 mm nut. pic of it is in last sales paper. this is for sheaves! Call and ask?
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#12
03-14-2010, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by keeter View Post
naw it has 2 pins on back side of fingers to insert into the bolt holes on each side of 22 mm nut. pic of it is in last sales paper. this is for sheaves! Call and ask?
I think that may work for the secondary, but I don't think there are "bolt holes on each side of the 22 mm nut" on the primary. I guess since there are no bolt holes on the primary, you'd have to hold the secondary with the tool and leave the belt on so that the belt keeps the primary from moving when your loosening or tightening the nut, correct?
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#13
03-14-2010, 12:49 PM
yeah, I seen the pins, but it only opens 5 inchs, that's not going to work with the primary, but will for the wet clutch. with it using the two holes on the secondary, is there enough room to get the nut off? I'd like to see a pic of one on the secondary.
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#14
03-14-2010, 06:34 PM
It's been awhile since I have had my secondary off, but would using that tool damage the threads for the bolts that you use to spread the secondary (when you are tightening or loosening the secondary there would be a lot of pressure placed by the pins on the sides of the holes) or are the the threads set deeper into the clutch face plate where the pins wouldn't do any damage.
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#15
03-14-2010, 07:25 PM
Yah that tool might work on my 600's primary by sliding the pins through 2 of the four holes but I know it wont work on the secondary as the bolt holes on that are only 6mm. Think I may break out the MIG welder and make something for this for future clutching adventures.
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#16
03-14-2010, 08:59 PM
i just use a ratchet strap. for the few times i have removed my clutch it works fine for me.
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#17
03-15-2010, 06:49 PM
I had the same problem with the strap falling off and was concerned about damage caused by wedging an extension in there and torquing the nut to the 100 ft. lbs.
So I had a neighbor of mine who has a machine shop make a holder out of some heavy duty thick plastic.
Works great!
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#18
03-15-2010, 07:06 PM
very cool tool looks similar to the part of the factory tool but yours is a full 360 instead of being pressed up against the primary with the belt tensioner. my idea is basically a large c clamp design with a long handle that uses an old belt rivitted to the steel to hold the primary and protect it. During my disassembly I found that someone must have tried the wedge something in the fixed primary sheave as one of the fins was snapped off. So I wont be trying that with the new parts I have to order.
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Coop 45 Mods 2&3
27" ITP 589's
Dynojet Stage 1+
EHS Racing Air Box Lid
HMF Slip On
Uni Filter
Odyssey PC545 Battery
Brand new Yamaha carb and $1100 in clutch parts almost ready to run.
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