Hey guys, new problem with my beaten up Grizzly. For those who don't know. i'm trying to restore a Grizzly 600 4x4 that i got from my older brother.
I was having spark issues so i changed the plug and coil. The coil looked really beat up so i figured it couldn't hurt to change it.
Before i changed it i would only get spark every once in awhile.
i have a good ground to/ for the coil, i'm just not getting power to it when i turn the key on or when i try to start it. i tried check during both ways.
Any help again would be very appreciated. Thanks Guys!
How do you know you're not getting power to the coil? Did you put a scope on that primary wire that goes back to the CDI box? It's only a pulse, not a continuous voltage.
OK did know it was just a pulse. Either way it doesn't have spark. It has a new coil, new starter silonoid, new battery. I'm just looking for some tips to check out, and to see if anyone else has had the same issue.
check the wires on the kill switch..........and the ignition switch, you could have a simple issue, after that, get a wiring diagram and start chasing.....
I just fired up a 600 Grizz without the carb. I sprayed starter fluid directly into the intake manifold hole and cranked it. The carb jets were found to be packed with fine grit, all of them.
Primary coil resistance (from coil primary ignition terminal to either ground lug): .18-.28 ohms
Primary coil wire to ground, should not be grounded.
Secondary coil resistance (from spark wire hole at coil to either ground lug): 6.32K-9.48K ohms
Spray some WD40 onto the CDI connector before removing it to preclude breaking off the connector locking tab. Work the connector gently to prevent breaking off the old, yellowed, stiff, likely to crack off, locking tab. If the locking tab gets broken off, you'll later have to work a zip tie in there to make it stay in place.
Disconnect the 4-wire pickup connector from CDI box. Measure on red and white terminals: 459-561 ohms. Also check from both red and white to ground. Should be OPEN. If not OPEN, then look for insulation rubbed off the wire, shorting to ground, likely near the upright frame member.
Source coil resistance: Measure on brown wire and green wire of same connector. 270 to 330 ohms.
Also check both the brown and green wires to ground. Should not be grounded.
The spark that I see on 600s is not a brilliant, snapping blue spark. It is a tiny spark... but a spark is a spark. It only needs to be sufficient to fire the mixture.
so after a hour of "chasing" i found out that my stator is out of specs. it was a few days ago when i checked it. i believe that both sets of wires that you're told to check the ohms on were ways outta limits. my multimeter wouldn't even read any resistance in any setting.
Infinity resistance = open circuit = broken wire in either the source coil itself or in the wires leading to the grommet where the wires pass into the engine = no crank. Check the resistance with 'ice pick' type probes, right at the engine (or use a razor blade to carefully open a slot into the wires, and then have a helping hand to hold the wires while you probe them.) On engine side of connector, Brown to Green should read 270 - 330 ohms = source coil. The Source Coil is part of the larger stator assembly.
On engine side of connector, Red to White should read 459-561 ohms = pickup coil. The Pickup Coil is the smaller separate coil.
It is unlikely that either the pickup coil or the stator assembly is actually bad. It is much more likely that 1) a wire is broken at the connector, or 2) that a wire is broken in route from the connector to the engine grommet where the wires pass into the engine.
i bought the source coil today.. i'll get it in 5 or so days. it messured 00.9 on a digital scale i diconnected the wires going to the cdi and refeltor..
the spark is there then after 2 more cranks its gone.. then i let it sit and ceank it over again and the spark is there for 2 plualses then its gone again.. i changed the plusar coil already with a brand new one and i get the same results.
If you replaced the pickup coil,,witha aftermarket one, sometimes the wires are backwards,, white is red ,,,, and red is white,, try switching them around,, had one doing that ,, switched the wires around. and bam ridin agian,,, dont firing problem suck?
hey vj m ...I know this is a old post but was wondering what was the outcome .. my grizz is doing exactly same thing .. put new pulsar coil in it and will spark cpl times then quits... let off and crank again sparks n quits...
The pickup coil provides the timing signal to the CDI box.
The CDI box also must have source power from the alternator coils.
So check the alternator coils:
Disconnect the 4-wire connector from the alternator wire set between the alternator coil wires leaving the left engine case, and the CDI box.
This connector will have R and W wires for the pickup coil, and Br and G for the source coil.
The R-W resistance should read 459-561 ohms for the pickup, and the Br-G should read 270-330 ohms, for the source coil, and these would, of course, be on the wires going into the engine, and not to the CDI box connector.
Check that both pickup coil, and source coil, are resistances in range.
Also closely inspect the wire condition at the connectors, both halves, and check continuity all the way to the CDI box connector.
And check the connector pins and sockets connections, male and female.
ok I have checked pulse and source coil and both are in spec.. cant find any bad pins , wires or connections anywhere ..local yamaha shop gave me ac voltage specs while cranking engine and both checked good.. by the way the source coil will shock the crap out of you... is there anything else I might try ?? thanks RA
I scoped the wire at the primary side of the coil.. I get a pulse once sometimes twice then it quits... let off start button crank it again and it will do same thing..will do this every time... trying figure this out just do not wanna have buy parts I do not need ... thnx again RA
Why aren't I getting any reading from the green and brown wires going to the source coil?
Everything else checks out, pick up coil is 460-ish and the stator wires are all reading 0.70
Then nothing at the source coil. Does that mean it has a broken winding? Any one have similar results?
Just bought this quad not running and apparently ran perfect when parked over a year ago
Don't know what machine you are working on?
This for a Griz 450
These are in the same connector.
Pickup coil should read 459-460 white/red to white/green wires
Rotation coil .085-.105 red to white/blue wires
Thanks, going to order a new stator and source coil. Its a 1999 Big Bear 350. Dealership prices are $780+, has anyone tried aftermarket/eBay stators and source coils? Not much info online
I bought a Ebay stator for my Grizzly 600 when my pulser coil was broken. Changed it, started up and everything was good again.
And of course, the price is much cheaper than buying OEM.
Sweet, and did it last a long time? I've read that most cheap ones on eBay etc. only last a month (almost to the day) and then need to be replaced again
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