is this a big job or can it be done i a few hrs? also is it best to be mid range in clearence?

 

It took me right around an hour and a half. no adjustment was needed when I checked mine though.

 

how manny miles did you have on yours before checking it?

 

Mine took an hour, I did it at 500 miles. The 700 valves have a tightening issue, so I would put them and the widest end of the spec.

 

ah ok thanks alot guys

 

Are the valve specs the same on the 2011 700s? I have a local place do all my work. They are awesome, I've entrusted all my previous machines to them and they do not disappoint. I just thought I would collect the info for them. Do the valves have a tightening issue? My Honda's loosened over time...

 

???

 

My valves have never moved in 6000k on the stock head. Every time I check they are in spec. I would not say they have a tightening issue unless you are over heating alot and getting dirt in the system causing excess wear.

 

Do you replace the tappet cover o-rings, or do you only replace them if damaged?

 

no only if there damaged i didnt replace mine

 

what is the stock fuel setting on a 07 700 grizz???

 

Fuel setting???

 

are these the right vale settings for a 2010 700

 

no i think they changed the cam in 2010 take your seat off and on the right side (looking at the bike from the front) there should be a sticker that has valve lash for intake and exhaust as well as fuel type, spark plug, and engine size

 

are there any pictures of this process? I'm just a little confused on these directions, read them several times....still confused.

 

:rocker:There are good instructions w/pics for 700/550 valve adjusting on the NYROC website that you can copy and print.

 

How do you get hands tools and feelers in the small space for the exhaust valves on a 700? I can just get my hands in there with the gauges to check them.

 

Very helpful

 

Is there a torque spec for the jam nuts on the rocker assembly?

 

Valve adjusments

I was planning on verifying the valve clearances on my 09 550 with 8400kms & 390hrs for the last little bit. In the planning stages I came across this thread, later on I download a Manuel, but my first instructions on the subject was Mad Mike's post.

The job it'self is more aquard then difficult. The intakes were on the tight side as a 0.003" shim felt snug, so I lossen them to 0.005". The exhausts were too tight for an 0.008" shim but a 0.007" passed easily, so I left them alone. Witch was good cause the exhaust side are horribly aquard to get to.

 

Bout time to do mine again this thread will help with the step by step instructions instead of just removing stuff till you can do it like the last couple of times.

 

Thanks to Busterw



Grizzly 700 (2007-2008) Valve Adjustment
There's not much to this so here we go. Be sure the engine is cold, meaning not at operating temperature. Sorry I didn't take pics. If you have questions, post in the forum and we'll be glad to help.

Tools Required

• screw drivers
• 4mm allen wrench, must be long (for removal of the hose clamp underneath airbox, I actually used a ratchet, an extension and a 4mm allen head socket)
• 8mm socket (for valve covers)
• 22mm socket (for crankshaft turning)
• 14mm allen wrench (for crankshaft access cover)
• feeler gauges
• 10mm socket or open end wrench.

Remove following parts:

• seat
• black plastic trim piece covering the airbox that houses the fuel fill cap
• left side panel
• left floorboard
• airbox
• black trim panel inside front, right fender
• fast idle plunger unit
• INTAKE valves tappet cover (on top of engine, beneath where the airbox was, held in with 4-8mm bolts)
• EXHAUST valves tappet cover (on top of engine facing forward, beneath where the airbox was, held in with 4-8mm bolts)
• camshaft sprocket cover on left side of engine
• spark plug
• crankshaft access plug (left cover, large allen bolt type head).
• timing mark plug (left case cover, above and to the right of the crankshaft plug)

First thing you gotta do is set the engine at top dead center. You use the holes on the left side cover to do this.

• Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise.
• When the piston is at the top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke, align the “I” mark on the magneto rotor with the stationary pointer on the magneto cover.
• Look at the camshaft. The “I” mark on the camshaft sprocket must be aligned with the stationary pointer on the cylinder head or the engine is at TDC on the intake side which isn't what you want. If this is the case, rotate the crankshaft one full turn (aligning the marks).
• Once you've got this all lined up, you just need to check each of the 4 valves. and adjust them per the specs below, according to the service manual. I found it easiest to go in the right side fender where you removed that black trim panel. some folks remove the entire left front fender and go that way. Your choice.
• Valve clearance (with enginecold)

Intake valve 0.09 ~ 0.13 mm (0.0035 ~ 0.0051 in)
Exhaust valve 0.16 ~ 0.20 mm (0.0063 ~ 0.0079 in)

Once you've checked and adjusted everything as necessary, re-assemble everything in the opposite order you removed it. Be sure to torque the valve cover to 10 Nm (1.0 m-kg, 7.2 ft-lb) __

Say I got a 2017 Grizzly and the shop said motor is strong but it needs new valves seals now if I put them in do I have to adjust valves too or time ?

 

You'll need to adjust the valve lash after re-installation of the rocker arms.

 

Thanks to Busterw



Grizzly 700 (2007-2008) Valve Adjustment
There's not much to this so here we go. Be sure the engine is cold, meaning not at operating temperature. Sorry I didn't take pics. If you have questions, post in the forum and we'll be glad to help.

Tools Required

• screw drivers
• 4mm allen wrench, must be long (for removal of the hose clamp underneath airbox, I actually used a ratchet, an extension and a 4mm allen head socket)
• 8mm socket (for valve covers)
• 22mm socket (for crankshaft turning)
• 14mm allen wrench (for crankshaft access cover)
• feeler gauges
• 10mm socket or open end wrench.

Remove following parts:

• seat
• black plastic trim piece covering the airbox that houses the fuel fill cap
• left side panel
• left floorboard
• airbox
• black trim panel inside front, right fender
• fast idle plunger unit
• INTAKE valves tappet cover (on top of engine, beneath where the airbox was, held in with 4-8mm bolts)
• EXHAUST valves tappet cover (on top of engine facing forward, beneath where the airbox was, held in with 4-8mm bolts)
• camshaft sprocket cover on left side of engine
• spark plug
• crankshaft access plug (left cover, large allen bolt type head).
• timing mark plug (left case cover, above and to the right of the crankshaft plug)

First thing you gotta do is set the engine at top dead center. You use the holes on the left side cover to do this.

• Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise.
• When the piston is at the top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke, align the “I” mark on the magneto rotor with the stationary pointer on the magneto cover.
• Look at the camshaft. The “I” mark on the camshaft sprocket must be aligned with the stationary pointer on the cylinder head or the engine is at TDC on the intake side which isn't what you want. If this is the case, rotate the crankshaft one full turn (aligning the marks).
• Once you've got this all lined up, you just need to check each of the 4 valves. and adjust them per the specs below, according to the service manual. I found it easiest to go in the right side fender where you removed that black trim panel. some folks remove the entire left front fender and go that way. Your choice.
• Valve clearance (with enginecold)

Intake valve 0.09 ~ 0.13 mm (0.0035 ~ 0.0051 in)
Exhaust valve 0.16 ~ 0.20 mm (0.0063 ~ 0.0079 in)

Once you've checked and adjusted everything as necessary, re-assemble everything in the opposite order you removed it. Be sure to torque the valve cover to 10 Nm (1.0 m-kg, 7.2 ft-lb) __

Hello!

Is the process also applicable to the 2020 Yamaha Grizzly 700 EPS ?

 

Essentially the same procedure.