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Help with over heating

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#1
06-13-2010, 08:48 AM
Question Help with over heating

HI guys we are putting together a 600 for my boy and we are pull starting it and it runs but it is getting hot and we do have the fan hooked up Help thanks
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#2
06-13-2010, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Southerngirl View Post
HI guys we are putting together a 600 for my boy and we are pull starting it and it runs but it is getting hot and we do have the fan hooked up Help thanks

could you give us a little more info; 50/50 mix ? with or without thermostat cooling fins on rad plugged up ?? is the fan hot wired
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#3
06-13-2010, 05:17 PM
ok yes we hot wired the fan and 50/50 is ? and I need to see if it has a thermostat. And check rad to see if it is plugged. ok will look into that thank you
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#4
06-13-2010, 06:36 PM
600 is oil cooled only, how do you know its getting hot is it breaking up no power.
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#5
06-13-2010, 06:40 PM
Sorry... deleted my post. Just read about 600s being oil cooled. My Bad
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#6
06-13-2010, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Southerngirl View Post
HI guys we are putting together a 600 for my boy and we are pull starting it and it runs but it is getting hot and we do have the fan hooked up Help thanks
You don't need to hotwire the fan. There's a thermo switch atop the engine, behind the cylinder, above the oil filter. That switch turns on a relay that turns on the fan. The fan will come on when needed.

With that said, be sure the radiator isn't mud-clogged. You can pressure wash it from both front and back, using a car wash. Be sure that the spray is not at an angle to the fins. If the fins get folded down or closed, use needle nose pliers to carefully straighten the fins.

To properly clean the radiator, you really should remove the front plastic, so you can get a nylon bristle brush in there to help remove any blockage. Once you can see a shined light through the radiator, then it's clean.

The 1998 600 radiator has a grille overlaying the radiator. The later years don't have this grille. If you're cleaning a '98 radiator, it is helpful to remove this grille before pressure washing.

If the radiator is clean, the head is clean, the oil is at proper level (remove left side plastic to check oil level in view hole window below the oil filter), then that is all you should need to be doing.

Note that there is an air duct that exhausts the clutch cooling air onto the head. This duct should be pointing the clutch exit duct onto the head just to the right of the spark plug. That duct is part of the engine cooling system, so make sure it's in place. It's retained by a hose clamp.

The right half of the oil pump lifts oil into the oil cooler radiator. Gravity dumps the oil back into the crankcase. Therefore, you have oil cooling and air flow around the cylinder/head. Be sure oil level is sufficient to be lifted into the cooler radiator, that air can flow through the oil cooler radiator (under fan control, as called for by the thermo switch), and that air can circulate around the cylinder and head (not mud clogged)

Pull starting a 600? I'd like to see that.

Last edited by keith20mm; 06-13-2010 at 07:21 PM..
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#7
06-13-2010, 10:53 PM
Hi thank you for info we got the bike in pcs so it's the motor and frame

Help with over heating-dsc_6927.jpg

Help with over heating-dsc_7388.jpg

Help with over heating-dsc_6919.jpg



we have only started it 3 times but it seems to be getting hot it smokes but could be stuff on the motor burning off. But will look into the things you said. and pull starting it is not easy we need to get a new battery and when we try to start it it clicks so we need a solenoid I think. ok tune in next time for As the Grizzly turns ......
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#8
06-14-2010, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Southerngirl View Post
we have only started it 3 times but it seems to be getting hot it smokes but could be stuff on the motor burning off.
No doubt, if you've gotten cleaner on the exhaust pipes.

While you have that thing stripped down, check the steering stem bearing and replace if it's loose... i.e., check the steering for slack.. tie rod ends, stem bearing. These are almost inaccessible with front plastic on.

The clicking when you hit the starter button... a down battery will do just that. You can hook 12v to the starter lug and frame ground to see if the starter motor will turn the engine over. Hopefully, the starter nose gear/idler /rotor gears aren't gnashed... but I'd try jumping the battery from a car first, but not for long. The bike battery is absorbed glass mat (AGM) and can't take much in the way of jumping.. it should be charged at 2A if possible, 7A for short duration max.
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#9
06-14-2010, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by keith20mm View Post

While you have that thing stripped down, check the steering stem bearing and replace if it's loose...
I didn't know they had a bearing, seems strange to me that yamaha would use a bearing on the 600 and then years later use a little funky rubber bushing for the 660s.
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#10
06-14-2010, 06:14 PM
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I didn't know they had a bearing, seems strange to me that yamaha would use a bearing on the 600 and then years later use a little funky rubber bushing for the 660s.
Ah, ya done been had on the 660. Frame drawing parts 22, 23, 24, 25 are the entire lower assembly, bearing is part 93306-20331-00 on the 1999 600.

Ha ha!

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#11
06-14-2010, 07:19 PM
Ya, some little fart probably got a promotion for coming up with the idea of replacing a bearing with a rubberband.
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#12
06-28-2010, 10:14 AM
Some good info on here...I have a 2000 600 4X4 with some issues. Heating up and not sure why...Fan comes on when it needs to and sides get HOT HOT...Oil was changed and up to snuff in the window. I believe my stator is not charging the battery aslo...was new battery and started OK but now has drained enough which doesn't start the machine but does still run the fan when running. He is getting hot then starts to break up and spit and sputter...sometimes shutting down and trying to start it via PULL start...heck i'm almost throwing my back out!!!!!!! HARD to do for sure...actually sometimes it pulls FARELY easy and sometimes I almost pull my arms off cause something causes it to get EXTREMELY hard to pull....My two big issues are charging and HOT/breaking up. The fan works and oil is up. I think I'll take off ALL the plastics and check stator, air box, fins on motor etc....
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#13
06-28-2010, 12:47 PM
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actually sometimes it pulls FARELY easy and sometimes I almost pull my arms off cause something causes it to get EXTREMELY hard to pull....
There's a trick to it! Pull the rope slowly to get the piston in the right position. Once you feel the piston go OVER top dead center, then yank it. Pulling it while the piston is going towards, or near top dead center is HARD.
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#14
06-30-2010, 12:39 AM
Make tons of sense!!!

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There's a trick to it! Pull the rope slowly to get the piston in the right position. Once you feel the piston go OVER top dead center, then yank it. Pulling it while the piston is going towards, or near top dead center is HARD.

wayupnorth - MAKES TONS OF SENSE ..Thanks for input....I was thinking something was binding up but with 8.5 to 1 and piston going up and valves closed when i'm pulling of course it would be HARD...Thanks
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#15
06-30-2010, 12:50 AM
buying a Haynes repair manual...should come in handy in the future.
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