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Did I glaze by belt!? Squeaky belt. (Video attached)

9K views 33 replies 12 participants last post by  CanadianKodiak700 
#1 ·
My 2012 Grizzly 700's transmission started a whinny noise last fall. There was no change in performance so I was planning on looking into it after hunting season. Kind of forgot about it and today after changing he oil I decided to have a look at it. Everything looks good but it's definitely noisier than it used to be. I figured what it was when I turned it by hand. The noise is the belt squeezing into the secondary clutch. The edge of my belt is kind of shiny but I've never slipped my belt. What's up?



 
#2 ·
Your belt is riding really high in the secondary clutch. Do you have any shims installed?
Either way, measure your belt width. It might be worn causing the belt to ride higher in the secondary. You will get a choppy whine noise like you have with a worn belt as the belt inner ribbing rides into the secondary clutch....I hope that makes sense to you.
 
#4 ·
The belt squeak in video 1 is O.K. with me, but the sound as the pulleys get slow in video 2 has me wondering.
How is the back shift.
 
#5 ·
sounds normal to me
 
#6 ·
Performance is perfect, nothing has change except for the noise. It's just the squeaking of the belt as it enters the pulley but it had never done that before. I'm not a mudder, don't drive it hard. Mainly use it for hunting and a few rides in the off season. Only 1776 km on it. The noise only started last fall and nothing out of the ordinary happened that could be attributed to the squeaking suddenly starting.

The sides of the belt are a bit shinny but I'm not sure if it's normal or could be considered "glazed".
 
#8 ·
Steve,
Your problem might have something to do with the secondary sheaves. On your second video when you accelerate the belt should move further in on the secondary with the RPM increase. It seems it cannot and really fights the spring/sliding mechanism of the sheaves. Did you ever serviced the secondary sheaves? there is some type of cam slot movement for the sheaves. I'll check that first, ensure my secondary sheaves are moving unobstructed.
When at it, service the primary too, make sure the weights are ok and greased properly.
Keep in mind you need different type of grease for this 2 cases.
In primary you need ultramatic grease, in the secondary you need regular bearing grease ( the manual asked for Bell ray if I'm not mistaken. )
My american 2 cents... LOL
 
#9 ·
I would service the clutches and deglaze the clutch sheaves.
Are you running OEM belt or aftermarket ?
 
#11 ·
To reply to your guy's questions. Original OEM belt. Never serviced the primary or secondary sheaves. I installed a 1.5 mm shim and purple spring two years ago and everything has been working fine. Both sheaves seem to be moving and working properly.

I have left the cover off until I can find a solution, maybe next week end I'll find some time to take it apart for servicing.
 
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#20 ·
You say that you have never serviced the primary or the secondary. You also say that you have a 1.5mm shim and a purple spring...correct?
Who installed the S&S? What wasn't the P&S serviced then?

It appears in the second video that the belt is hopping on the decel.
I'm think 3 things maybe the problem..

Too much shim with a worn belt is letting the belt rub the seal hump. Mic the belt. Remove the shim and check it out.

Shim in the wrong place. Remove the shim and check it out.

The primary isn't returning in sync with the primary cause the grease is junk. Clean it up and regrease it. I use good high temp waterproof wheelbearing grease. Another symptom of the secondary needing service is the belt squawks when taking off after a quick stop or when reversing?

I'm leaning toward all 3 having something to do with the problem.
 
#12 ·
I agree. Start with servicing everything.
 
#13 ·
Here's a picture i picked up from Google, this is not my belt but my belt does look like the top one. Everyone is saying that belts on Grizzlies last forever, I'm still scratching my head as to why my low mileage and easy riding would glaze a belt so fast?

 
#16 ·
Grizzly_2015 FYI the manual for my 2004 660 & 2013 700 calls for Bel-Ray Lube assembly for the secondary sheave. To me that's pretty thin, after watching a JBS (Just Because I Said) film he recommended Yamaha Polyurea Grease (Yamaha part# ACC-POLYG-RS-10) for the secondary sheave and the inside collar for the Primary. Still use Grizzly Grease (Ultramatic Grease) for the inside of the Primary. This is what I've used and have no problems. Others have just used a heavy grease and have had no problems either.
bcsteve- X2 on what Grizzly_2015 & okbear said about servicing both of your sheaves.
 
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#17 ·
**update**

Went to my local Yamaha dealer to get a new belt since I thought mine was glazed. A new one looks exactly like mine, so that's not the issue, saved myself $180! Showed my videos to the mechanic and he said it looks/sounds like the two sheaves are not aligned causing the squeaking. I mentioned that I do have a 1.5 mm shim and he said he's 100% sure that that's my issue!? I'll take the shims out and see if it makes a difference.

I know there's a ton of guys here running shims and I don't think I've ever heard anyone having this issue. Of course he recommends that I bring my Grizzly over so they can check it out.

Anybody have had or heard of a similar issue running shims?
 
#22 ·
After 5 years of riding, I bet the grease is thick and part of your problem, but at least you didn't leave it at the dealership to cause another problem.
If dealers had techs that knew shit, there wouldn't be a reason for G.C. and you wouldn't be looking on the computer for help to find G.C.
You may be the first one to have this exact problem, so try everything all have suggested in this thread.
Before turning a wrench, I would spin the primary both ways to confirm it is acting correctly. That will that about 30 seconds.
If that feels fine, remove the cage and turn the primary again. What if the nut has backed off or the cage bearing has failed or......
You have to check from your end.
I would confirm the nut is at 100 pounds torque.
If that seems fine, pull the primary and check inside.
Let us know what you find.
 
#18 · (Edited)
I'd fathom a guess that a minimum of 1/2 the guys responding in this thread are running shims, myself included but only .7mm however that is also with a coop45 primary sheave. I've not heard of similar complaints by those running with shims.
 
#19 ·
I've never heard of shims causing an issue. I'm running 1.7mm. And that wouldn't explain why you're just now having the issue. You're shims were in long before the issue began... Correct?
 
#21 ·
Just a short my 2 cents worth. When the primary is installed it's very important to insure that the washer is centered on the shaft when tightening the Primary Nut. The shim should be placed on the inside of the collar (between the collar and sheave closest to the engine). From looking at the picture of the belt there are no rub marks on the teeth of the belt so I don't believe it's rubbing against the hub seal hump. X2 on a good service of both sheaves.
 
#24 ·
reogem, No I saw it Rick but he did mention that it looks the same. But with that it mind make sure their are no rub marks on the teeth of the belt on the outside. That's a indicator that you hitting seal hump, least ways that was the way I found out about mine. My other thought was if he had to much shim that it would rub the outer case before making contact with the seal hump. But I've been wrong before.
 
#25 ·
...But I've been wrong before.
wgc, you're married. You should have realized a long time ago that you're wrong all the time :wink2:



:grin2:
 
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#27 ·
Fixed it!!!

Serviced both sheaves and regreased everything, scotchbrite on all surfaces and rebolted everything back together. Start her up and everything is as smooth as it used to be!

There wasn't anything obvious or any "well, there's your problem" moment when I took everything apart so I'm not exactly sure what was he issue but whatever it was, it's fine now. Thanks guys for all the advices and tips!!

P.S. $42.99 for a tub of magic Ultramatic grease, seriously!?! Good thing you don't have to service them too often!
 
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#28 ·
Glad you got it fixed. I just use the grease I have on my shelf. Think it's moly. Hadn't done a secondary yet, though.
 
#29 ·
These Yamaha C.V.T.'s are very sensitive, so what may be wrong may not be easily seen.
Keep everything in proper order with routine service.
 
#30 ·
Thanks for posting up the fix!

If you must greeezzzze it up..Just use any good quality hi temp waterproof wheel bearing grease.. 5-10 bucks.

You did use a torque wrench?
 
#31 ·
I had read conflicting reports about using a substitute for the Ultramatic grease so I bit the bullet and bought the real thing. Yes, I used a torque wrench.
 
#32 ·
The "conflicting reports" come from those who are selling hi temp waterproof grease at a premium price. Usually with their name on the cans.
Besides that the grease in the primary basically is only there for sound deadening. The rollers are self lubricating. Personally I don't want dirt, sand, mud, dust, pebbles hung up in my primary. Add these materials to an oil what do you have? Asphalt.

The secondary does require grease. Good wheel bearing grease works in the secondary because of those same qualities. Belray assembly grease is similar to a toilet wax ring. It is used for a different reason.. assembly. Over time it collects dirt and dust causing the secondary to become sluggish (slow to backshift). If you hear the belt bark or make a donkey sound it's time to service the secondary.

If a person is going to grease all the grease must be is waterproof, hi-temp, have good adhesion (low sling), reasonable good quality.
What it doesn't need a high dollar name on it.

My ± 2.0162¢
 
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