1998 Grizzly 600 starting issues - Yamaha Grizzly ATV Forum
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post #1 of 14 Old 08-23-2012, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
 
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1998 Grizzly 600 starting issues

My father and I own a '98 Grizzly 600 and it has been great (except in sub -10F weather, we live in northern Alaska) but last year it became difficult to start at any temperature using the electric or pull start and this year is no different. I will be checking the battery today but the starter is turning over and emitting small puffs of light smoke, which seems to suggest that gas is getting to the motor and igniting (we just put in a new spark plug, but have not checked the gap). The same goes for the pull start. The odd thing is that if I tow the Grizzly at 3 to 5 mph in gear and tap the electric start button it starts right up. Once it is running it will idol, not great a few bobbles ( not backfires) and it is sluggish when we attempt to accelerate at speeds around 20 mph. I have pulled the front plastic, front rack and gas tank to begin checking for problems. So far the gas petcock fuel filters are clean and there doesn't seem to be any water in the tank or bad gas. I also pulled the carb but am running into problems getting the screws out. In fact the only screws I can get out are covering the throttle assembly and that's not much help. What I do know is that everything visible within the open chamber of the carb (butterfly valve, the other large black valve with a half moon cut out of the bottom, the walls, and all visible jets) are shinny clean. I'm stuck my next step is to recheck the battery's voltage order a new carb from ebay and.... Uh... I've got nothing. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I should mention that my father and I are novices at best but have access to tools and people more mechanically minded than us. Thanks GC members

Last edited by Na8953; 08-23-2012 at 07:32 PM.
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post #2 of 14 Old 08-23-2012, 10:13 PM
 
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when was the last time the valve clearences were checked ?

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post #3 of 14 Old 08-23-2012, 10:15 PM
 
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Fuel, Spark, Air ,Compression

Sounds like you are getting fuel...(thats usually my first guess)
My guess is a clogged up carb.. plug should be nice and wet when you pull it after a starting attempt.

Spark, take the plug out and let it ground agaist the engine...spin the engine...make sure you get a nice bright spark..

try it without the air cleaner...

try a compression guage.

Most of the time its a gunked up carb...look for a you tube video on cleaning
Here's one...
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post #4 of 14 Old 08-23-2012, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
 
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I have never checked the valve clearance on this grizzly, I just ordered a new carb which should get here next week. I think because I haven't done a valve clearance check since auto shop small engines class I will hold off until the new carb has been installed. Do you think my intake/exhaust valves moving would affect whether or not the air fuel mixture from the carb ignites? Would it be because of low compression due to the air fuel mix going back into the intake or out he exhaust before ignition?

I will head out to the shop right now and check the spark. The air filter assembly is off already with no change. I will talk to some people up here about borrowing a compression gauge.

I have actually seen all of stevewatr's videos of the 2000 griz, he is actually the reason I attempted to service the vehicle myself and I'm glad I did I know so much more now than I did 2 weeks ago. The problem with my carb is that nothing on the exterior will move. My a/f adj that should be 3 1/2 turns out according to the service man won't move, my idol adj won't spin, the throttle won't slide in the carb for me to take the carb off and inside.

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post #5 of 14 Old 08-24-2012, 07:42 AM
 
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yes if the valves are out it will be hard to start. happened on mine. try you tube for a how on the valves.

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post #6 of 14 Old 08-24-2012, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
 
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Ok I pulled the spark plug and hit the electric start button. Healthy puffs of air are shooting out of the combustion chamber (I haven't found a compression gauge yet) but I see no visible spark on the spark plug. Then scratched a clean spot on the cooling fins on the engine and tried the starter again to see if it produced an arc, it did not. I triedthis process again with the pull starter and nothing, cylinder moved butno spark. My battery has finally lost charge so I am going to recharge it. Any suggestions on what I should do in the meantime to double check the spark?

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post #7 of 14 Old 08-24-2012, 11:22 PM Thread Starter
 
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Update. After charging the old battery (it didnt charge well, I will be buying a new one) I pulled the spark plug and grounded it against the cooling fins and a big healthy spark shone, yeah. So i reassembled and the electric start worked in two compressions. She's running!!! And is no longer sluggish. The strenght of the spark seems to be affected before the electric starter stops working and even for the pull start which is surprising. Thanks guys for walking me through the process. I will still be installing the new carb I ordered because the idol is a little low and i cannot spin the air fuel jet adjustment. and it will be a good learning experience for me. I'm sure I will be back within the week with carb adjustment questions, if not thanks again.
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post #8 of 14 Old 08-24-2012, 11:35 PM
 
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May want to check all the grounds 2 just to be on the safe side. Also did you check the valves?

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post #9 of 14 Old 08-25-2012, 01:03 AM
 
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i dont know about the 600 but i know one the 660 and the 700 if the battery is toasted they will do all kind of crazy thing!!!!! but i would say carb or valves!!!!! if u want to clean ur carb a welding cleaning tool we work well on all the jet ports!!!
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post #10 of 14 Old 08-25-2012, 03:52 AM Thread Starter
 
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I have not checked the valve but it is on my immediate list of thing too do. Hopefully the penetrating lub will break the exhaust access bolts and intake Allen heads screws out. I think one is .007 in but I will double check in the service manual.

Badgrizzly what is a welding cleaning tool? Is it a liquid or a devise? Will it help be loosen the screws on the carb because they are allllllllll stuck. I am going to find a pair of needle nose vise grips too get the stuck screws out because the penetrating liquid isn't enough.

Yamafreak what grounds are you talking about? New to this. Would it be in the service man.

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post #11 of 14 Old 08-25-2012, 03:58 AM Thread Starter
 
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Just found out that I have access to a welding cleaning tool, the the small wire cleaners
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post #12 of 14 Old 08-25-2012, 05:41 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Na8953 View Post
Just found out that I have access to a welding cleaning tool, the the small wire cleaners
welder cleaning tool is what i use to clean all the port in the jets now on the carb bolt i would say get a impact drive ( it has adapter for all diff type of screws and work well it getting stuck screws out or vise grip should work!!
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post #13 of 14 Old 08-26-2012, 11:58 AM
 
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once you get the screws out of the carb replace them with allen head type. you can get them at a hardware store

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05 grizzly 660
viper 3500 classic winch
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snorked
26' itp mud lites
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post #14 of 14 Old 10-23-2016, 10:07 AM
 
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I know this is an old thread, but I also had trouble getting the screws out on my 1998 Grizzly carb. They stripped and I could not get pliers on them. I just used a hacksaw and sawed a groove across the top of the bolt. Then drove a flathead screwdriver into the new slot and the screw came right out. I replaced them with stainless steel screws.
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