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leaking carb

This is a discussion on leaking carb within the Grizzly Tech Tips forums, part of the Grizzly Forums category; Hey all, I have a carb issue I want to run by everyone before I start throwing parts at it. If I don't turn off ...


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#1
01-26-2010, 09:20 PM
leaking carb

Hey all,

I have a carb issue I want to run by everyone before I start throwing parts at it. If I don't turn off the fuel when it's not running, it will drip gas alll over the top of the motor. this carb was cleaned and the neddle and seat were replaced by a dealer prior to me buying it from a private party. I have the invoice for the rwork done and it specifically says new needle and seat. today I started it up to plow and while it was warming up, it started running like it was loading up and them just quit. It was flooded, so I held the throttle open and it started up and ran rough until it cleared out some of the fuel. I happened to look down under it and the fuel was pourning out of the hose attached to the bottom of the carb. I assume it's the overflow hose. Is this a needle and seat issue or am I looking at a float issue? when it first started hapening, I called the dealer that did the work and they said if it was something they did they would fix it, but if it was something else I would be charged for at least the diagonistic. My guess is I won't get out of there without spending some money. I would like to try and fix it myself.

Thanks for any suggestions.
John

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#2
01-26-2010, 09:58 PM
Have you checked the float level? Take a clear rubber tube that fits over the drain on the bottom. Pull the drain plug and put the hose on. If you hold it up so that it makes a U with the end a little above the seam where the bowl and body meet then turn on the fuel you will see your float level. The gas will come into the hose but only as high up the U as the level is inside the carb bowl.

Now the question is the spec, I don't remember it off the top of my head nor can I find my manual. Does anyone have it?

I'm guessing either the float is messed up (tang bent)and your float level is too high or the needle is not seating correctly. Could be as simple as a bit of dirt in it keeping it from closing.
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#3
01-26-2010, 11:58 PM
THE EVEL ONE

The clear tube trick will not work in this situation. If it was running correctly before it started leaking then you have trash in the needle/seat. Trash is not allowing the needle to seat, and allowing uncontrolled fuel flow into the carb. Most likely the cause of the initial problem as well. I'm betting the fuel tank was not cleaned out. Shine a flashlight down in there and see. I rule out the float because it would have been doing it since reassembly. Tell your dealer if the tank had been cleaned properly this wouldn't have happened. IMO carb work w/o a tank cleaning is a 1/2 a$$ job dealer or not. All they did was put a band-aid on a bullet wound. You better keep that fuel shut off as it can fill the engine/airbox/exhaust I'm speaking from experience, you definitely don't want that happening. Trust..you'll see trash in the bottom of that tank, the same trash that caused this problem previously. The only other possibilities would be float/needle/seat failure and that's not likely given recent history....
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#4
01-27-2010, 08:21 AM
Ok, It sounds like I will have to pull the carb. Any hints or tricks to make things easier? It looks as if I can get to it by pulling a side panel. It seems to be mounted to a rubber boot and a clamp. Should be easy enough. I wonder if I should just bring the carb back to them instead of the whole bike. They told me it would take thenm a few days to get to it and I have about a 1.5 hour drive one way to get to the shop that serviced it before I bought it.

John
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#5
01-27-2010, 12:50 PM
THE EVEL ONE

You will have to remove the needle to spray it out. Since it has just been worked on it may be possible to get the bowl screws out without complete carb removal. Sea-Foam is reccomended as it won't swell rubber parts. I'd check the jets as well. Most likely has fuel in the oil as well, so change it. I run a bit of non-aerosol Sea-Foam from time to time as it stabilizes and keeps jets sparkling clean. Clean out your fuel tank as well to prevent this from happening again....
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#6
01-27-2010, 01:56 PM
My vote is trash in the main jet not allowing the needle/float to seat. This happened to a Warrior I had with the same description of symptoms, i.e. only run throttle wide open. In my case the sock filter in the tank was ripped and a little piece of red gas can plastic found its was to the jet. Took the bowl off and opened the petcock into a container and there it was. Be careful not to lose the pin holding the float assembly up or you're sol. Reassemble and at some point put an inline filter between the tank and carb.
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#7
01-27-2010, 06:54 PM
OK i'm having a little troubel. I decided to remove the carb because the screws in the bowl are super tight. How do I get the throttle cable out. I unscrewed the barrel connector, but howw do I get the cable to release from the carb? That is the only piece left before I can get the carb to the bench. I have enough slack to tip the carb on it's side and I tried the screws. I'm already starting to screw up the head, so I really want it on the bench. What will the trick to pulling the bowl screws be?


Thanks guys.
John
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#8
01-27-2010, 07:00 PM
Use a small manual impact driver with phillips bit to loosen screws.
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#9
01-27-2010, 07:17 PM
THE EVEL ONE

Loosen all adjustments and work the barrel out of the slot and the cable should come out. I've found the best removal tool for the bowl screws to be a very small set of vise-grips. Might as well forget the screwdriver, and a change to ss allen heads is a wise idea. Coat them liberally w/anti-seize upon reinstallation and don't overtighten. BTW are you working on a 600.....
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#10
01-27-2010, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by tgriffin09 View Post
Loosen all adjustments and work the barrel out of the slot and the cable should come out. I've found the best removal tool for the bowl screws to be a very small set of vise-grips. Might as well forget the screwdriver, and a change to ss allen heads is a wise idea. Coat them liberally w/anti-seize upon reinstallation and don't overtighten. BTW are you working on a 600.....

I am working on a 2000 600. I'm not sure what you mean about working the barrel out of the slot. I have the barrwl connector completely off the threaded piece that goes into the carb. There is a grey piece of cable that goes into the threaded tude that is into the carb. It attaches to the butterfly. when you pull it the butterfly opens. I don't see where I can detach the cable from the butterfly in the carb. I'm lost and frustrated.
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#11
01-27-2010, 11:01 PM
THE EVEL ONE

I've PMed Jack to your rescue. I've only removed mine once and from what I remember I just loosened it up where it enters the carb and slipped the barrel out of the slot it rests in.The barrel BTW is the piece on the end of the cable that looks like a barrel. Welcome to Frustration Central BTW...I got a headache..............I'm just sayin" Back in a bit>>>>>>>>>
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#12
01-27-2010, 11:30 PM
I pulled the triangular plate off the side to expose the area the cable connects to. I see the barel it fits into and I can partially pry the barel out of the hole it's in, but not enough to release the cable. I must be missing something very simple. There were no scratch marks inside this cover on ony of these parts until I started trying to pry the barel out, so the dealer must have had a better way of removing the cable. I do appreciate the help you have provide so far, please keep the suggestions coming.

THank you
John
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#13
01-27-2010, 11:34 PM
I do shut it off when I'm not using it now, but yesterday the fuel just started flowing out of the overflow tube, even when it was running. It was actually pouring out under the bike and leaving a puddle when It was running and totally loading up on top of it.
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#14
01-27-2010, 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by jteahan3165 View Post
You would need to add slack to the cable and open the butterfly all the way to have enough cable to pull the barrell from the lever.

Did you read the previous post?
Possibly you don't need to remove the carb........!!!!!
Thank you I did read the post. it ran fine until yesterday if I turned the fuel shut off open about an 1/8 from closed it still let way too much gas in the carb and would run out of the overflow under the bike. I know the shutoff works because I have the feed line disconnected right now and I'm getting no fuel coming from the shut off. I have all the slack in the cable I can get I even gave mysyelf some from the handle bar adjustment. Am I in the correct place under the triangular cover to pry the barel out of the mount?
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#15
01-28-2010, 12:04 AM
I think I need to stop working on it and give it a fresh go tomorrow. Maybe a new day will give me a less frustrated feel and IT will go easiier for me tomorrow. Now the question is will I be able to sleep or will I be thinking about it all night? Thanks for all the help guys. I appreaciate the time you have given me.
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