Adjust valves yourself? - Yamaha Grizzly ATV Forum
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post #1 of 9 Old 06-08-2010, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
 
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Adjust valves yourself?

I hit the 20 hr mark and would like to do all the work my self. I am good on the fluid changes and wondered about the valve adjustment.

Do most do it on their own?

I did adjust valves on my truck, setting the gap between the rocker and valve end, is this the same process just one cylinder?


Thanks!
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post #2 of 9 Old 06-08-2010, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
 
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After spending more time reading, I will do it myself for sure.

Does anyone have the piece or a link to the service manual for a 2009 grizzly or an equivalent model/year? I saw some tolerances online but want to know I have the right ones. Thanks a lot!
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post #3 of 9 Old 06-08-2010, 08:51 PM
 
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Here ya go man!
Nyroc's ATV info website
I just got through doing it myself. Piece of cake.

2011 Grizzly 700 SE - Coop mod #3, 1mm shim, epi white spring, shift lock-out cable delete, STI HD2 wheels, 30"XXL MLs, GYTR Exhaust


2008 Grizzly 700 Camo - sold, 28" Mudlites, FIX clutch, EHS system, GYTR pipe, ITP SS 212s black, homemade stereo (mdf)
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post #4 of 9 Old 06-08-2010, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks a lot!
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post #5 of 9 Old 06-08-2010, 10:54 PM
 
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Just curious to know and might be a stupid question to some but why would you have to adjust the valves, i have never heard of this needing to be done. I have about 90 hrs on my 09 Grizz and did the first and all services so far myself, was i suppose to adjust the vales?

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09 Grizz 700 FI EPS
ITP 589s w/ 28" SilverBacks
Full skid plates
Front and Rear push bar
Trinity performance slip on
Custom machined clutch sheave
K & N Air filter
Dyna Tek ignition
734 Trinity big bore kit w/ +5mm lift crank
Hotcams Mud buster cam
Full custom snorkle and Rad relocated

05 Kodiak 400 (wifes machine)
Stock Grizz wheels w/ 26" XTR's
Full skid plates
Stage 2 jets
K & N Air filter
Clutch kit w/ 1mm shim
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post #6 of 9 Old 06-08-2010, 11:02 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superarbeau View Post
Just curious to know and might be a stupid question to some but why would you have to adjust the valves, i have never heard of this needing to be done. I have about 90 hrs on my 09 Grizz and did the first and all services so far myself, was i suppose to adjust the vales?
As valves wear and seat a little, and the rest of the valve train breaks in/wears it can change a little and need to have the clearances set again.

For the link above, it references a grizz 700, are the valve clearances the same for the 450? Thanks
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post #7 of 9 Old 06-08-2010, 11:24 PM
 
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Well that does make sense but would it be doing anything(sounds, performance, etc) to let you know that the valves need to be adjusted. I would like to know because my wifes Kodiak what use to be mine has over 5000 kms(8000 miles) and I know this has never been done but it still rides great.

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09 Grizz 700 FI EPS
ITP 589s w/ 28" SilverBacks
Full skid plates
Front and Rear push bar
Trinity performance slip on
Custom machined clutch sheave
K & N Air filter
Dyna Tek ignition
734 Trinity big bore kit w/ +5mm lift crank
Hotcams Mud buster cam
Full custom snorkle and Rad relocated

05 Kodiak 400 (wifes machine)
Stock Grizz wheels w/ 26" XTR's
Full skid plates
Stage 2 jets
K & N Air filter
Clutch kit w/ 1mm shim
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post #8 of 9 Old 06-09-2010, 12:36 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superarbeau View Post
Well that does make sense but would it be doing anything(sounds, performance, etc) to let you know that the valves need to be adjusted. I would like to know because my wifes Kodiak what use to be mine has over 5000 kms(8000 miles) and I know this has never been done but it still rides great.
My kodiaks valves where like that, everytime I checked them they were in spec. These big bores are a different story. My 660s would tighten up out of spec every 1000 miles or less. They always tighten up. If they loosened up you would hear them "ticking" and know it was time to put them back in spec. I just did the 20 hour service on my 700. Both intakes had tightened up OUT of spec in 20 hours of riding. Your performace suffers and it becomes harder to start the bike. If you let them tighten too much the day will come when you think you have battery or starter or electrical problems. When actually the problem is the piston catching at TDC from too tight of valves. You want these things set perfectly in spec for coldweather starting also. Checking the valves is as important as checking the oil or coolant or any thing else on these bigbores.

You must have had a bum dealer if he didn't stress how important it was to check the valves on the 700 after the breakin period

09 Polar Bear HO- 05 660 Grizz My Garage PIKS Clutch kit thread

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post #9 of 9 Old 06-09-2010, 07:34 PM
 
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I am adjusting the valves on the kodiak right now and i am a little unsure of the gap i am looking for, there is a small gap but it is tight on the one side and what appears to be the right size gap on one side. also i am alittle unsure of when i am tdc on the compression stroke, i dont see a difference on any stroke.

__________________
09 Grizz 700 FI EPS
ITP 589s w/ 28" SilverBacks
Full skid plates
Front and Rear push bar
Trinity performance slip on
Custom machined clutch sheave
K & N Air filter
Dyna Tek ignition
734 Trinity big bore kit w/ +5mm lift crank
Hotcams Mud buster cam
Full custom snorkle and Rad relocated

05 Kodiak 400 (wifes machine)
Stock Grizz wheels w/ 26" XTR's
Full skid plates
Stage 2 jets
K & N Air filter
Clutch kit w/ 1mm shim
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