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post #1 of 50 Old 01-23-2007, 02:44 AM Thread Starter
 
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Hello,

Has anybody put synthetic oil in the crankcase after the break in period? The service manual says use yami 10w30 or SAE10w30, but does not say with or without friction modifiiers/energy conserving (unless I missed it). I assume to use the non-friction modifier synthetic due to the wet clutch. I have used mobil 1 in all my vehicles, and had the top of the motors apart looking in the valleys and looks brand new. My modded daily driver is driven hard, and never any wear is seen on the magnetic drain plug. (cast iron heads and block, steel crank).

I see that yamaha has a yamalube semi-synthetic for racing, and I believe the regular yamalube does says non-friction modified. I asked the service manager where I bought the quad, and he said all he ever used was yami and klotz. I know mobil 1 sells a non-friction modified fully synthetic in 0w40. Most people say, just change your oil at the recommended intervals, does not matter what you use. Well, I like taking no chances when it comes to a high dollar item, and want the best protection I can get. I know there is 1 better synthetic and that is amsoil, but for the price mobil one can't be beat. Unless your running full drag cars at 20w50 then it is redline oil, but that is totally different story. The yami dealer said to drop the oil at 100 miles. book says 200. Funny thing, my first question to the service manager started out like, "Since the grizz 700 has a wet clutch, would it be alright to put non-friction modified synthetic in?, he stopped me and said it was not a wet clutch, right there I knew I would never bring the quad back there for service. Page 2-2 of the service manual in black and white.. CLUTCH TYPE : WET, centrifigal automatic.

So, what oil does everyone use? What oil filter does every one use? Where do you get your best prices? Dealer? Online? If online, who is the seller?

There are quite a few things that are supposed to be done on the first servicing. I am not going back to the dealer I bought it from for service, I asked about the first service and they said all they do is change the oil and filter. I can do that no problem. The 5 star service dealer is half the distance so I would take it there. Has anyone taken there 700 grizz to the dealer for the first service? The service manual lists quite a few things that should be done, I know it says 200 miles, but might as well be done at a 100. Check sparkplug, check valves, check fuel injection, clean air filter, check front and rear brakes, check wheels and tires, wheel bearings, v-belt inspection...etc... the list goes on for a while. Scary that all the dealer said was the engine oil. The diff and final gear oil is supposed to be changed too.

Anyone have a bill showing all that was done for the first service? And what it cost? I am going to send an e-mail to the reputable service dealer and see what he will charge. I know a lot was covered or asked in the topic, thanks for your time.
Safe riding,

//\\//\\ikeD73USA

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post #2 of 50 Old 01-23-2007, 04:10 AM
 
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All I plan on doing is checking the valves and replacing the crank and diff fluids with Amsoil.
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post #3 of 50 Old 01-23-2007, 04:57 AM
 
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Mike, I always use Yamaha brand fluids and filters in my grizz. I purchase from my local dealer. Its a small price to pay to have the manufacturer recomended fluid and filter in your machine. As far as service goes I buy my machines locally from a reputable dealer who I trust. I have purchased 6 machines from him, had all my service done there, bought all my Yamaha stuff there and most of my aftermarket as well. I trust him to service my machines and he takes care of me and my machines. By doing 90% of my bussines in one place I get outstanding service whenever I'm there, my machine is always put in the short line for service or repairs, I never wait more than a day or two. I get some decent discounts on parts and service, and great buys on new machines. Thats my 2 cents.
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post #4 of 50 Old 01-23-2007, 04:41 PM
 
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Good to hear you have a dealer near you that you can trust. I like to wrench on my own still though. Just like my harley's. If they lay down on me out in BFE I have the confidence to hopefully fix it an get it home. We do not have a dealer around here that is very good.
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post #5 of 50 Old 01-23-2007, 06:10 PM
 
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Mike, I read in my owners manual as well that it has a wet clutch. How can thi be? As far as I know the clutch is outside the engine. Is there a internal clutch that drives the primary v-belt clutch? Seem like a mystery to me.
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post #6 of 50 Old 01-23-2007, 06:53 PM
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Yamaha's use a wet clutch system, it consists of weights and springs to help engage the clutch which are all internal in the oil bath of the engine. Unlike a polaris clutch which is just a snowmobile clutch, the grizzly clutch always has pressure on the belt so it hardly slips even when it gets wet. That is why you need "NON" Energy conserving motor oil in your crankcase.
I am presently using Yamalube 5W-30 CW(Cold weather)(has synthetic additives) Formula, works well and doesn't consume it like Amsoil did. I tried 2 oil changes with Amsoil 0W-40 ATV oil and I would have to add some after every ride, I switched back to Yamalube and I haven't used a drop in over 600 km's. I am going to try Shell Rotella T 5W-40 on my next oil change and see what happens? A lot of people run it and love it so I want to try it because it is quite a bit cheaper for me to get. I try and run a Yamaha filter when I can, I am not a firm believer in Fram filters anymore..........Irv
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post #7 of 50 Old 01-23-2007, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
 
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (irv @ Jan 23 2007, 06:53 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Quote:
Yamaha&#39;s use a wet clutch system, it consists of weights and springs to help engage the clutch which are all internal in the oil bath of the engine. Unlike a polaris clutch which is just a snowmobile clutch, the grizzly clutch always has pressure on the belt so it hardly slips even when it gets wet. That is why you need "NON" Energy conserving motor oil in your crankcase.
I am presently using Yamalube 5W-30 CW(Cold weather)(has synthetic additives) Formula, works well and doesn&#39;t consume it like Amsoil did. I tried 2 oil changes with Amsoil 0W-40 ATV oil and I would have to add some after every ride, I switched back to Yamalube and I haven&#39;t used a drop in over 600 km&#39;s. I am going to try Shell Rotella T 5W-40 on my next oil change and see what happens? A lot of people run it and love it so I want to try it because it is quite a bit cheaper for me to get. I try and run a Yamaha filter when I can, I am not a firm believer in Fram filters anymore..........Irv[/b]
So, I guess just use the yamalube and don&#39;t look back? What is wrong with the fram oil filter? If your quad didnt like amsoil, I am sure it wouldnt like mobil one then either. The other atv manufactures have there own line of FULL synthetic, I wish yami did. Also, I was at dealer today looking at the different oils and noticed the yamalube-4 did not say "non-friction modified, is there two different yamalube 4&#39;s? besides the R version, which is semisynthetic. Thanks for your time and your good info.

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post #8 of 50 Old 01-24-2007, 06:37 PM
 
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I use Mobil 1 MX4T....love the stuff...little pricey but worth its weight in gold.
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post #9 of 50 Old 01-25-2007, 10:27 PM
 
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I use amsoil 0w40 in my grizz and kodiak. I will not use anything else. After the crap I put through my engine and it still runs like new, I cant ask for anything more.

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post #10 of 50 Old 01-26-2007, 02:05 AM
 
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On my 660 i used Castrol R4 Superbike, that is also good for cross, enduro etc, 10W-40 full syntethic oil. It is expensive, but long durability and better/ sweetest shift manovrability.
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post #11 of 50 Old 01-28-2007, 04:00 PM
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I didn&#39;t have good luck with Amsoil in my quad or truck, it consumed it like crazy in both vehicles. I switched to Mobil-1 in the truck and I never consumed a drop again? I also went from Amsoil back to Yamalube semi-synthetic in my quad and so far so good? I have written Amsoil and also talked to a dealer at the mudhole.ca who talked to a Tech guy and they couldn&#39;t come up with a great answer?
Some guy&#39;s run it and don&#39;t have any issue&#39;s but I know it is not for me.
I have heard way too many bad things about Fram filters to ever use one again, read this link below, it is what finally convinced me. ..........Irv

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
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post #12 of 50 Old 02-04-2007, 01:43 AM Thread Starter
 
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (irv @ Jan 28 2007, 04:00 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Quote:
I didn&#39;t have good luck with Amsoil in my quad or truck, it consumed it like crazy in both vehicles. I switched to Mobil-1 in the truck and I never consumed a drop again? I also went from Amsoil back to Yamalube semi-synthetic in my quad and so far so good? I have written Amsoil and also talked to a dealer at the mudhole.ca who talked to a Tech guy and they couldn&#39;t come up with a great answer?
Some guy&#39;s run it and don&#39;t have any issue&#39;s but I know it is not for me.
I have heard way too many bad things about Fram filters to ever use one again, read this link below, it is what finally convinced me. ..........Irv

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html[/b]
Hey Irv,

Thanks for the FYI on the fram filters. It was hard for me to believe how poor built the fram filters are. I have used them on all my vehicles. WELL not anymore. I bought some puralator premium plus filters for my car and truck. They looked like they were the best choice. The PURE ONE filter, was better for filter media length, but it had to many pleats and they think that will cause a restriction in oil flow. I also forwarded the info to 20 or so people to educate them like you did me. THANKS!!

I think I will try the mobil one 4 cycle full synthetic atv oil, and use yami products for the other maintenance items. I want to find a GL-4 full synthetic gear oil, but can&#39;t find one. Most GL-5 gear oil manufactures say not to use gl-5 in gl-4 applications. The gl-4 has 50% less of the extreme pressure agents than the gl-5, and I have read that using GL-5 in a gl-4 application could actually cause more harm than good, premature failure and increased wear on the gear surfaces. I am thinking I would be safe using non-synthetic in the final and front diff due to the fact they are sealed, and are not exposed to blow-by, and higher temps, like the engine and crankcase parts are. I think that the mobil one is the same price as the yamilube.. Take care, safe riding.

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post #13 of 50 Old 02-04-2007, 12:12 PM
 
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dont use synthetic in your diff&#39;s, the oil will leak past the seals. I have had this problem and know other people that have had this problem, once we changed back the problem was fixed.
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post #14 of 50 Old 02-10-2007, 02:24 PM
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I am running synthetic in my diffs and don&#39;t have any problems. It is Mobil-1 synthetic and it is good stuff imo. It&#39;s funny, I can&#39;t run Amsoil synthetic in my motor and yet some people can?.........Irv
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post #15 of 50 Old 02-10-2007, 11:26 PM
 
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I was using mobil 1 as well, so i hope you have better luck then i had with it.
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