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Fuel line on 660?

30K views 41 replies 8 participants last post by  reogem 
#1 ·
Hey guys,

I'm new here, but I figured this was the right place to ask a question that I have.

This morning I noticed a pool of gas under the atv, so I found the source of the fuel leak. It is coming out of the line coming off of the bottom of the carb, and ends in a yellowish transparent hose. That hose was hanging down near the bottom of the engine this morning, and I'm not seeing any obvious place where the end of the line is supposed to connect to. Where does the free end of this hose go, or is it supposed to hang free? If it's suppose to hang free, why is fuel leaking out of it? I'd post a picture, but apparently I can't yet.

Thanks
Jordan
 
#2 ·
That hose hangs down thats to get the water out of your carb after u drownd it. Theres a little screw on the bottom of the carb right were that hose goes in make sure its tight if its open gas will flow out
 
#3 · (Edited)
its the overflow for the carb its supposed to hang freely.
if its leaking when the bike is just parked then you need a new needle and seat.
make sure to turn the gas off at your tank when you aren't riding it you will lose the whole tank if your needle and seat are bad.

edit... yes that hose is also to drain the float bowl with the above mentioned screw
 
G
#4 ·
I just changed my needle and seat with brand new parts and I've still got the same leak! Made me mad so I left it alone and haven't gone back to check whether float tab is set right or not. And I know the float is good. Just be aware that changing the needle and seat will fix it most of the time but not all the time
 
#10 ·
:rocker:Could be a worn needle and seat. Easy to change out. Could also be just trash stuck in the needle and seat. Both will cause the carb to overflow and gas could also run into the cylinder and fill the crankcase with gas. Check your oil for the smell of gas! Change oil and filter if needed. Always turn off the main fuel petcock to the carb when not riding or when transporting/trailering to prevent fuel from overflowing into the cylinder and flooding the engine.
 
#11 ·
Okay, so would you guys say that the needle and seat are the first things I should replace, or is there something else that is equally likely to cause this problem? If I should start with the needle/seat, is that #19 in the diagram I linked to above?

Thanks
Jordan
 
#12 ·
I had the same prob a month ago. These guys are awesome! I was told to tap the bowl.with something like a butt of a screwdriver. If it was the float sticking , that may help. It did! I had the tank off a couple days before, and may have stirred up some crap.
So its been fine since I did that, although I do shut the petcock off now when I park it, always!. I also have been adding seafoam to my gas regularly. That is good stuff! Bought a needle n seat just in case, but don't need to mess w it now!

Sent from a natsosmahtfone
 
#17 ·
Hey Jerbel! If you are close by a dealer or even a parts retailer, order a Moose Racing (or another brand if you can't find that one) carb kit. You'll get the needle and seat and all the other goodies needed. Carb parts wear out like any other part of the bike. An entire carb kit is around 20 bucks, versus paying that for JUST the needle and seat. If you are relatively good with tools, you can get it swapped out in about an hour, I'd say. Or take it to a small engine shop and have them do it. There's nothing about changing the needle and seat that would require you to take it to the dealer and spend $75/hr to have them fix it. Any small engine shop can do that.
Pretty easy fix.
 
#18 ·
your gonna need part number 19 and your gonna have to take the gas tank off and the carb to get to the screws on the bottom of the carb
 
#19 ·
Matter of fact, cheap cycle parts sells the moose kit for 23 bucks. Just search Grizzly Moose carb kit.
 
#23 ·
1 - CLEAN countertrop to work on, a few good shop towels, and a can of carb cleaner.
2 - An air compressor to blow everything out really good.
3 - Anything that looks like a brass screw will be soft as rotten fruit. BE CAREFUL. I like to give mine a little bit of a "tightening" torque before trying to loosen them up. Saves on stripped out screw heads.
4 - The tiny brass fingers on the float bowl move/bend VERY easily. Be careful that they go back in with the same shape.
5 - Take pics... you never know when you need to look up what it looked like "before".
6 - Patience.
:getrdone:
 
#25 ·
Kind of a pain in the butt to get it OUT from the rubber boots. But as far as removal goes it's pretty straight forward.
The one thig that I'd watch out for is when you remove the choke cable from the carb, that nut that holds it tight LOOKS like it's made of metal, but it's nylon and WILL strip out if you're not careful.
Nothing much else to worry about. Other than that, just remember where everything goes.
 
#26 ·
Hey guys,

Well, I ordered the kit and it's been sitting on my desk for about a month (it's been cold out!). Now it seems like the carb is leaking fuel not only out that relief hose, but also into the engine! I went out to start the Grizz today and the engine was hydro-locked. I removed the spark plug and turned over the engine a few times to spit out the excess fuel, and it eventually started up. I ran it for about 20 minutes, working hard to keep it running, and it constantly wants to stall out.

Does that sound like normal behaviour from a carb that REALLY needs to be rebuilt now?
 
#28 ·
Heed this advice, you do not want to destroy the engine bearings because fuel has washed away the lubrication. You will need to change your oil and filter now as well before you run the engine.

Rebuild the carb, change the oil and filter, THEN start up the bike!
 
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