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CV Boot Replacement - How To Guide

This is a discussion on CV Boot Replacement - How To Guide within the Grizzly Tech Tips forums, part of the Grizzly Forums category; I just replaced my rear right outer CV boot. I decided I would put together a simple how to for the job. If anyone sees ...


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#1
04-26-2008, 08:51 PM
Red face

I just replaced my rear right outer CV boot. I decided I would put together a simple how to for the job. If anyone sees any mistakes or has a better way of doing the job please feel free to edit. If you want it in a Word document...CLICK HERE. However, use the How-To-Guide at your own risk!!


First and foremost, I am not responsible for any damage to your bike or bodily harm to you while you perform this simple task.
</span>[/b]USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!

THIS IS FOR REFERENCE ONLY!

Tools needed to do the job:
  • Whatever size socket fits your lug nuts
  • " drive impact wrench
  • " or " drive ratchet
  • " drive swivel joint
  • " drive 6" extension
  • " drive 27mm socket
  • " drive 10mm socket
  • " drive 17mm socket
  • 14mm end wrench
  • " drive 12mm socket
  • Needle nose pliers
  • External snap ring pliers
  • Flat head screw driver
  • Small hammer I used a small ball peen
  • Torque wrench
  • WD-40
  • Plenty of rags!!
  • Grease to repack the joints.
  • Floor jack.
  • Tool to secure CV boot clamps "If you feel the need to use this tool"
Remove your tire.

Now you don't necessarily have to do this step if you have replacement clamps but I chose to do so even though I had new clamps. I salvaged my old clamps so I could use them again. I just took a small flathead screw driver and a small hammer and raised the 2 clips that are bent over securing the clamp, then I just loosed it up to provide enough slack to get the boots off. This can be accomplished anywhere down the line but I chose to do it after I removed my tire.

Next remove the clips securing the brake line to the A-arms using a " drive ratchet and 10mm socket. There are 4 bolts securing the line to the arms.

Next remove the brake caliper using a " drive 12mm socket. Use the swivel joint and 6" extension to remove the top bolt. The bottom bolt is accessible without the use of the extension and swivel.




Just lay the brake caliper over and out of your way once removed.

Next you will need the 27mm socket and 1/2" drive impact to remove the nut holding the hub on the axle. The nut is pinged so you will use the flat head screw driver and the small ball peen hammer to raise the ping so you can remove the 27mm nut from the axle.

See picture below.



Once the nut is removed you can remove the hub along with the brake disc and set aside.

Next you will need the " drive impact, 6" extension, 17mm socket, 14mm end wrench for backup. Remove the bolts securing the upper arm and lower arm to the knuckle. Remove the knuckle and set aside. See the picture below.



Once the knuckle is removed and out of the way, ***The end user may choose not to lightly pull on their axle to remove it. If you choose to pry it out, be careful not to damage the aluminum differential housing.***otherwisetake hold of the axle and push it in then lightly pull it towards you with a few light bumps. You may have to do this a few times to get the axle to come out of the differential, don't give up it will come out.

<span style="color:#ffffff">Now that you have your axle removed, it is time for the dirty work!

For the inboard boot "closest to the differential"
Take your needle nose pliers and remove the internal ring from the double offset joint.
Remove it and sit aside.
Next using your snap ring pliers remove the external snap ring from the bearings.

For the outboard boot "closest to the tire", place the axle in a vice and secure it in place.
Take a brass punch and a hammer, tap the offset joint with the hammer/punch to knock it off the axle.
You may have to hit it a few times to get the offset joint to come free from the internal ring holding it in place.

Remove the bearings and sit aside.



Take your axle, bearings, double offset joint to a clean work area, use some WD-40 or whatever you prefer to clean out the contaminated grease and any foreign debris that may be in the joints. Once everything is cleaned up you can replace your damaged boot.

For reassembly just repeat the steps in reverse order.

In the pictures you will see the torque values specified for each fastener.

Tip: I did not have use the special tool to secure my clamps back in place. I used the trusty thumbs!~ No need to waste the money on a tool that is not needed IMO.
***However the end user may chose to use the appropriate tool for securing the clamps to the CV boot.***




Good luck!!
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#2
04-26-2008, 10:57 PM
Nice work brharrison, I haven't had to do that yet but I'm sure I will someday. You can bet I'll use this for pointers.
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#3
04-26-2008, 11:46 PM
Very nice write-up....I was almost going to have to do this...might have to in the near future...thanks a bunch
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#4
04-26-2008, 11:53 PM
Awesome write up. Thanks for sharing and making this a bit easier for others!
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#5
04-27-2008, 08:35 AM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (brharrison @ April 26, 2008, 9:51 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Quote:
please feel free to edit.[/b]
I edited your post to show the writeup and also hosted the Word document (pics too) as well....hehehe...and added a link to it in TECH TIPS.

I would like to thank you for the time you took in writing this for our members. As our token of appreciation...1 Year Premium Membership for your dedication and effort. Things like this do not go unnoticed here at GC.

Again....thanks!

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#6
04-27-2008, 10:41 AM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (GEARSLAYER @ April 27, 2008, 8:35 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Quote:
I edited your post to show the writeup and also hosted the Word document (pics too) as well....hehehe...and added a link to it in TECH TIPS.

I would like to thank you for the time you took in writing this for our members. As our token of appreciation...1 Year Premium Membership for your dedication and effort. Things like this do not go unnoticed here at GC.

Again....thanks!

Jamey (GEARSLAYER)[/b]

WOW! I really appreciate that. Very thoughtful of you for sure.
It is my pleasure to help the fellow grizzly owners around here the best that I can.

Regards,

Ray
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#7
04-27-2008, 10:57 AM
Since nobody seemed to listen when I said not to pull on the inner joint, check out this video. It's on a Renegade, but it's pretty much the same.
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#8
04-27-2008, 11:22 AM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Niskibum @ April 27, 2008, 10:57 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Quote:
Since nobody seemed to listen when I said not to pull on the inner joint, check out this video. It's on a Renegade, but it's pretty much the same.[/b]

How else are you going to get it out then? He states in the video that if you pull to hard that you may seperate the joint. In the photos posted you will see the double offset joint which has an internal ring. When you pull against the axle to get it out that ring is what you are bumping against. You dont have to jerk on the axle, just give it a few light bumps towards you an dit will come out. That ring also has to be remove once the axle is off the bike so that you can remove the double offset joint to remove the external snap ring so that you can remove the bearings so that you can remove the boots. Bumping the axle out IMO is not going to hurt it. Thats just my opinion.
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#9
04-27-2008, 01:16 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Niskibum @ April 27, 2008, 11:57 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Quote:
Since nobody seemed to listen when I said not to pull on the inner joint[/b]
I am assuming you are referring to something you said in another thread. Some of us may have not seen or read that thread. So then, nobody listening is probably not the case.
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04-27-2008, 03:44 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (brharrison @ April 27, 2008, 9:22 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Quote:
How else are you going to get it out then? He states in the video that if you pull to hard that you may seperate the joint. In the photos posted you will see the double offset joint which has an internal ring. When you pull against the axle to get it out that ring is what you are bumping against. You dont have to jerk on the axle, just give it a few light bumps towards you an dit will come out. That ring also has to be remove once the axle is off the bike so that you can remove the double offset joint to remove the external snap ring so that you can remove the bearings so that you can remove the boots. Bumping the axle out IMO is not going to hurt it. Thats just my opinion.[/b]

The video speeds up while he is taking apart the hub, and then it slows down just as he is taking a pry bar and poping it out from the back side of the joint. He is a proffesional mechanic that actually teaches at the college here, so when he says that pulling on a plunge joint is bad for it I believe him. It is just as easy to pop it out with a pry bar, and you don't risk damaging the joint. Then you can beat the outside joint off with a brass punch and get to both boots. I've never had an inside boot go bad, it always seems to be the outside one, so I never had to take the inside joint apart.

Another thing to pay attention to is the boot clamps. They need to be the proper tension to keep stuff out of the joints. Having a tool like the one they sell at Gorilla makes that a lot easier. Yamaha has had an issue with their boot clamps being loose, and I have had to replace a couple. With the tool you can sometimes do it without even dropping the lower a-arm, but it's easier if you do.

I broke a cage once out in the middle of nowhere. Trust me, it's a lot better to take care of your joints in your garage than to limp home with a broken one miles from your truck.
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#11
04-27-2008, 03:53 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (GEARSLAYER @ April 27, 2008, 11:16 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Quote:
I am assuming you are referring to something you said in another thread. Some of us may have not seen or read that thread. So then, nobody listening is probably not the case.[/b]

This was the one I was talking about, which was bumped by the starter of this thread when this one was posted. http://www.grizzlycentral.com/forums/index...ic=4982&hl= They were sitting right together in the new posts, so I assumed people reading the one would naturally see the other. My mistake. I just don't want to see someone going through what I did when I broke an axle. It isn't fun, and it can be expensive.
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#12
04-27-2008, 04:07 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Niskibum @ April 27, 2008, 3:53 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Quote:
This was the one I was talking about, which was bumped by the starter of this thread when this one was posted. http://www.grizzlycentral.com/forums/index...ic=4982&hl= They were sitting right together in the new posts, so I assumed people reading the one would naturally see the other. My mistake. I just don't want to see someone going through what I did when I broke an axle. It isn't fun, and it can be expensive.[/b]
He is working on a renegade not a grizzly 700.
You cant get a pry bar between the double offset joint and the differential, at least on my 2 - grizzly 700's so that leaves one other alternative and that is to lightly tug on it to get it out.

I found it easier to remove the double offset joint since it is not pressed on instead of having to beat the other offset joint off teh axle since it is pressed in place.

Also the new clamps renistalled have plenty of tension on them. The way they are designed when you press the tail of the clamp over it has enough leverage to pull the clamp plenty tight. I promise you wont budge the ones I just installed on mine without the tool.

Anyway the axle job can be done however the user prefers, I just put together a simple how-to as a reference.

Regards,

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#13
04-27-2008, 05:04 PM
See the image below, that is the axle on the renegade which the mechanic does have something to pry against.




Now look at the Grizzly 700 axle.
Big difference, nothing to pry against.

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#14
04-29-2008, 01:30 PM
Yeah, its a little tougher on the grizz and king.
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#15
04-29-2008, 02:15 PM
I though i would just pry mine out when putting new diff seals in the front on my 660. Well prying them out worked fine and dandy and on the 660 there is a nice little lip to pry on. BUT....when you pry on the cast lip you crack it and then in return have some not very nice looking chuncks taken out of the lip on your differential. I can take pictures if you guys wish and don't believe me, and yes I am a pretty good mechanic myself. I now just tug on all axles I do a couple of times and they pop right out.

I strongly suggest pulling....if I remember I will take some pictures and post them anyways.
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