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Kodiak 400 Ultramatic -- bleeding rear brakes, having problems

This is a discussion on Kodiak 400 Ultramatic -- bleeding rear brakes, having problems within the Kodiak/Big Bear/Bruin/Wolverine Discussion forums, part of the Other Yamaha Forums category; Hi! I'm a noob here, and a noob to the ATV world. Recently my in-laws bought a new 2012 Grizzly 700, and handed down their ...


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#1
03-31-2012, 01:37 PM
Kodiak 400 Ultramatic -- bleeding rear brakes, having problems

Hi! I'm a noob here, and a noob to the ATV world.

Recently my in-laws bought a new 2012 Grizzly 700, and handed down their 2001 Kodiak Ultramatic 400 to my wife and I. I replaced the rear pads on it, and to aid in pushing the caliper piston back, I cracked the bleeder, but in the process, I jammed the piston because there was corrosion on the outer edge of the piston. I disassembled everything, cleaned the piston up and reassembled everything, and the piston and sliders all move very freely.

I can NOT get the caliper bled. I can hardly even get the fluid to escape if I crack the banjo bolt on the brake hose.

Am I missing something? I assume the reservoir above the front brake handle is the one for all the brakes, and this is the one I need to top up if and when I get the brakes functioning.

I'm at a loss. I'm an automotive mechanic by trade, and I've been tinkering with this on and off in the evenings for 3-4 days, and I can't figure it out.

:) Help?
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#2
03-31-2012, 03:19 PM
The resevoir for the back brakes is under the front, just unbolt the rack and take the center hood off and its on the left side, or should be mine is and its an 02, hope this helps.
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#3
03-31-2012, 04:45 PM
yes as deerhunter said the rear brake reservoir is under the front plastic panel under the rack. it's somewhat visible by looking inside and up the right front wheel arch.
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Yamaha Kodiak 450 2007 IRS
1.55mm Primary Clutch Shim
8x 15.6g Clutch Weights (drilled)
Carburetor Slide Spring cut 3 turns
Muffler tip cut off, hole made bigger
Airbox top cut open with a screen
Reverse and Full-Lock Limiter Bypass
Carlisles Badland xTr radial tires
^^25-11-12 and 25-8-12^^
Warn XT25 2500lbs winch
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#4
03-31-2012, 09:09 PM
Thank you thank you!!! I'll check that tomorrow!!
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#5
03-31-2012, 09:10 PM
Is it hard to bleed from that location?
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#6
03-31-2012, 10:30 PM
just remove the plastic cover under front rack, fill reservoir up to full, begin bleeding like you'd do on a car.

pump the brake, hold it down, open bleeder, close bleeder, release brake, repeat.
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Yamaha Kodiak 450 2007 IRS
1.55mm Primary Clutch Shim
8x 15.6g Clutch Weights (drilled)
Carburetor Slide Spring cut 3 turns
Muffler tip cut off, hole made bigger
Airbox top cut open with a screen
Reverse and Full-Lock Limiter Bypass
Carlisles Badland xTr radial tires
^^25-11-12 and 25-8-12^^
Warn XT25 2500lbs winch

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#7
03-31-2012, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by daver18qc View Post
just remove the plastic cover under front rack, fill reservoir up to full, begin bleeding like you'd do on a car.

pump the brake, hold it down, open bleeder, close bleeder, release brake, repeat.
Awesome! I really appreciate the help!

Last edited by Squashtowner; 04-01-2012 at 04:09 PM..
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#8
04-01-2012, 04:08 PM
You guys are awesome! Got the brakes bled perfectly. There's still a little air in the lines, the pedal and lever are a little spongy, but after our next run I'll bleed them again and they should be good as new.

In the process of opening the hood and topping the fluid up, I found a HUGE mouse-nest covering the air intake. Explains why the bike was hard on gas!!! I removed the next and cleaned and replaced the air filter under the seat as well.

Thanks again!!!
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#9
04-01-2012, 04:18 PM
if you're speaking about the intake under the front cover, it's the CVT air tube, it sucks air at the front, cools the belt and rest of CVT then exists at the back of the seat by another tube.

nothing to do with the engine air intake, but it's still better to have it open and not blocked, it will surely help cools your drive belt better !
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Yamaha Kodiak 450 2007 IRS
1.55mm Primary Clutch Shim
8x 15.6g Clutch Weights (drilled)
Carburetor Slide Spring cut 3 turns
Muffler tip cut off, hole made bigger
Airbox top cut open with a screen
Reverse and Full-Lock Limiter Bypass
Carlisles Badland xTr radial tires
^^25-11-12 and 25-8-12^^
Warn XT25 2500lbs winch
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#10
04-01-2012, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by daver18qc View Post
if you're speaking about the intake under the front cover, it's the CVT air tube, it sucks air at the front, cools the belt and rest of CVT then exists at the back of the seat by another tube.

nothing to do with the engine air intake, but it's still better to have it open and not blocked, it will surely help cools your drive belt better !
Oh, there ya go. I assumed it was the engine's air intake.

Also, I believe my left outer tie rod is a little loose. I gave the bike a good shake down today checking things out. Are tie-rods hard to source out, other than the dealer?

I'll put a new plug in this weekend as well.

:)
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#11
04-01-2012, 07:09 PM
You can get tie rods pretty cheap on eBay.
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#12
04-01-2012, 08:51 PM
I'd think most outdoor sports places has tie-rods ends, it's like brake pads, these parts are everywhere; on snowmobiles, on lawnmowers, quads, etc.. so often they are easy to find.
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=====================
Yamaha Kodiak 450 2007 IRS
1.55mm Primary Clutch Shim
8x 15.6g Clutch Weights (drilled)
Carburetor Slide Spring cut 3 turns
Muffler tip cut off, hole made bigger
Airbox top cut open with a screen
Reverse and Full-Lock Limiter Bypass
Carlisles Badland xTr radial tires
^^25-11-12 and 25-8-12^^
Warn XT25 2500lbs winch
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