Grizzly 700 Clutch Weight Change - Yamaha Grizzly ATV Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 04-12-2009, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Grizzly 700 Clutch Weight Change

Today we put changed weights in my 2007 Grizzly 700 clutch. It made it noticeably snappier...but not on the very bottom.

Here are some photos I took along the way for anybody looking to do it themselves.

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post #2 of 8 Old 05-12-2010, 07:57 PM
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Thanks for the demo. I'm planning on installing a new machined sheave & weights but didn't want to tear into it without a little advice. Your photos answered a lot of my questions & will make it much easier.

2007 Grizzly 700, Benz Silencer Muffler, K&N Air Filter, 2" lift kit, 1" wheel spacers, Warn Winch, Moose Plow, Kolpin contoured hard case, seat belt
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post #3 of 8 Old 12-06-2012, 08:05 PM
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Thats a great pictorial. Where can I find different weights?
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post #4 of 8 Old 04-04-2013, 08:22 PM
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When going with 2 two different weight sizes you just put the same weight across from another correct? Not having 2 of the same side by side

2009 Grizzly 700 fi 4x4
2" lift Removed
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12, and 14 gram weights with 2.5 gram covers (epi)
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post #5 of 8 Old 04-08-2013, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by badazzgrizz View Post
When going with 2 two different weight sizes you just put the same weight across from another correct? Not having 2 of the same side by side

08 Camo 700EPS, 26" BH OGs on Blk 108's, 1" frnt whl spcrs, Elka Stg 2, RDC 2" lift , Rhino axels, EHS Bullet Box & lid mod w/K&N, Dyna FS, HMF Swamp Exh, Coop45 sheave, greaseless wts, purple spring, Yami US HD frt bumper, Bison Hunter rear bumper, ViperMax 3500 w/syn line, ATVrocks skids & Rock Sliders, Rox risers & Solex tapered quad bars, Roto Pax, PIAA Intense White H4's, Plano 1510 rear box.
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post #6 of 8 Old 04-09-2013, 04:05 PM
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I have 28" zillas on my 700 and moving up to 29.5 outlaws soon. Would doing new Kodiak weights and the shim on the clutch help it pull harder again? Thanks for any help
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post #7 of 8 Old 04-16-2013, 10:53 PM
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great thread kudos to the op, a pic is worth a thousand words..

2011 Hunter Green Grizzly 700 w/ EPS

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post #8 of 8 Old 07-05-2013, 08:36 PM
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2 things you didn't add to your writeup that will make this job error proof.

1) On the bench, once the cam plate is installed and bottomed out and the next part being the cap or grease cover is installed, insert anything you can think to hold pressure against the cam plate that will still allow you access to the nut to tighten. I use 2 pieces of rubber heater hose, some others use a balled up rag. This will 100% ensure no rollers have a chance to move.

2) The 2nd issue relates to the first. Do not remove the pressure against the cam plate until belt tension is re-established. Tighten the primary sheave down and then rotate the clutches until full belt tension is established. Once you have it, remove your heater hose or rag from the cam plate.

Without doing this, most times you will never have an issue but it's not a lot of effort for peace of mind.
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