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Which enclosed trailer brand?

This is a discussion on Which enclosed trailer brand? within the Trailers and Toy Haulers forums, part of the Public Forums category; I am looking to get an enclosed trailer but don't know much about the brands. I have looked at Wells Cargo, Haulmark, and Interstate. I ...


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Trailers and Toy Haulers This section is for specific discussions pertaining to any and all Yamaha Grizzly or ATV related trailers. This includes toy haulers, cargo trailers, etc.


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#1
05-07-2008, 02:33 PM
I am looking to get an enclosed trailer but don't know much about the brands. I have looked at Wells Cargo, Haulmark, and Interstate. I want to get a 7'x16' tandem with the rear ramp. I really just want something basic. Any good or bad experiences with any of these, or recomendations for other brands to look at? any advise is helpful because I am pretty much clueless about this kind of trailer.
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#2
05-07-2008, 02:43 PM
For race motorcycles, we used to use Doolittle. Doolittletrailers.com I think. They are located in Missouri.

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#3
05-07-2008, 08:31 PM
Ok, here is what I use:

It is a 8 1/2 by 20 foot Race Trailer with a one foot extended height, 5200 lb axles, and finished interior. It is working very well at the present, but we have had problems with it. Haulmark has made their trailers with an optional extended height for years, as do many other manufacturers, and I needed the extra height to be able to fit my Jeep inside. However, I am told that Haulmark had just opened a new manufacturing facility prior to my trailer purchase, and that my trailer was the first extended height trailer they had built at this facility.

The first day we got it home, the wires pulled out of the tail lights in the drop down gate because the wiring harness was too short. The wires for the tail lights enter at the tongue of the trailer, then go up and through the roof, then down the sides at the back of the trailer, and into the tailgate at the bottom of the tailgate. Haulmark did not use a longer wiring harness even though the wires had to go up another foot to get to the extended height roof, and then down another foot again to get to the bottom of the tailgate. So the wiring harness was effectively two feet too short, and the wires pulled out the first time we let the gate down with the ground behind the trailer a little lower than where the trailer was parked. We took it back to the dealer and they fixed it under warranty.

A few weeks later, pulling on the freeway while driving into a head wind, the front of the trailer bent in at the top by about a foot. It buckled the whole front of the trailer, and the roof. We took it back to the dealer, and were told that Haulmark was refusing to fix it under warranty because they thought it had to be due to something we had done wrong. Our dealer got to looking at the trailer closer though, and noticed that the top plate for the front wall studs had never been installed. The tops of the studs just ended at the top of the wall with nothing but the sheetmetal skin holding them together. He then pushed the issue with Haulmark, and Haulmark pretty much rebuilt the entire front of the trailer under warranty. I should have gotten an entirely new trailer in my opinion.

The polished aluminum corner caps and front roof cap are thinner than the aluminum they make beer cans out of. The slightest of rock chips from the trucks tires causes big dents in the corner caps (notice the excellent mud flaps on the truck, so there really shouldn't be any significant rocks hitting the trailer). The aluminum roof cap has bent from simply wind force against it while towing on the freeway.

The color on the aluminum sheeting is very fragile. We had to take the trailer down a short dirt road to retrieve our Rhino after it broke one day, and just a nice soft leafy tree branch lightly touching the side of the trailer caused huge brush scratches down the whole side of the trailer. I have never in my life seen such soft fragile paint. This same tree branch would not have left a single mark on typical paint on an automobile.

The roof leaks, so the wood flooring gets wet on rainy days. I'm going to have to get a ladder and get up on the roof this summer and try to silicone every joint on the roof to try and stop the leak.

So, if you are asking which brand to get, I would say get any brand but Haulmark. This trailer is the poorest quality trailer I've ever owned.

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#4
05-07-2008, 11:37 PM
I chose an Interstate 16' x 8' 6", as it is sold a bit closer to me then some of the other name brands.

I personally chose to have the barn doors in the back for a few reasons.
1. It's lighter than the ramp door, as there are no springs and the doors are not as heavy as they don't need to support weight.
2. It's cheaper by something like $400-$600 than the ramp door.
3. With the doors opened all the way up, they fold flat against the sides of the trailer and out of the way. The ramp is always in the way. I like to be able to stand on the ground and work on my ATV's and such on the trailer floor.
4. I only need 4' or so of clearance behind the trailer to open the doors fully, where the ramp must have 6' or 7' to clear.

The trailer is all welded frame, and is nice and solid. The tail lights are LED and the wires are all routed in the upper right side of the box. No wires to worry about hitting any when putting screws in the walls. It has torsion axles so there is no sqeaky leave springs and such. It travels very smoothly and tows like a dream.

Now, things I would have done differently given the knowlege I have now.
1. Beingst that I tow this behind my truck camper, I didn't take into consideration that both the camper and the trailer are
both 8' 6" wide and kiss while backing in tight corners. I had to add a 21" stinger extension to my hitch setup. Every thing clears now. I should have ordered it with a longer tongue.
2. I tow this beast into the sand, and with lowered air pressure in the tires, and lowered frame already, it drags. I should have had larger tires installed and the suspension lifted about 3" or so. I plan to do this modification myself sometime maybe this year.
3. I should have also had 3 more roof vents installed, as it gets silly hot in the summer due to lack of airflow just sitting there.

Now things that I would suggest to anyone ordering any brand of cargo to haul ATV's with.
1. Get the interior floor and 12" of the lower walls Line-X'ed. Makes cleanup a breeze. Water, oil, fuel and other chemicals won't hurt or soak into the Line-X.
2. Get the under belly sealed really well with good quality undercoating.
3. Add more lights to the interior. LED if you can get those.

Here are a few pics of my trailer and setup.



























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#5
05-08-2008, 07:12 AM
That's some good info guys, thanks, I've just started looking at toy haulers myself..
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#6
05-08-2008, 10:59 AM
thanks for the info. I noticed from the pics that both the trailers shown are flat nose, would you buy another flat nose or would you get the v nose on it? I am trying to decide if it is really worth the extra money.
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#7
05-08-2008, 11:41 AM
No need for V nose. Those are usually more reserved for snomobiles and just cost more. My flat nose actually has a slight arch to it, and provides an addtional 6" towards the center of the trailer. What you gain in V nose, you lose in tongue space. This may or may not be important, but with our camper door exiting right in front of the cargo box, we need the tongue space more. The cargo trailer has plenty of wall space to make storage for everything and then some.
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#8
05-08-2008, 06:17 PM
INSAYN, thanks but I was thinking about gas milage wise.
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#9
05-08-2008, 06:42 PM
If u are worried about gas mileage then look at an aluminum open trailer. That is what i use and it cuts through the wind like a butter knife, and u hardly notice u are haulin anything. I used to use enclosed trailers until i borrowed my freinds, after towin it i immediately went out and bought one.
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#10
05-14-2008, 12:16 AM
I bought a 7' X 16" just a few weeks ago, and it works just great. I bought mine on Ebay, but anyone can check them out by typing in " Enclosed cargo trailers" and you'll see where I got mine from.

<div align="center">







<div align='left'>I had E-track installed on the floor, so I can strap & adjust whatever I'm carrying (usually my quad) to where I want it. I upgraded the tires, and had LED lights installed, and had some rear adjustable legs put on, but other than that, it works great.
This particular trailer also has the "RV" type door, where it comes with a latch for opening the trailer (which also has "2" locks on it) too.

I suppose there are alot of options one might want, depending on your own personal situation, but making sure you have lots of "security" options as well to make sure it stays in your own personal possession is important as well.
Mine obviously is the V nose, which works out to being 17' 10" (inside measurement to front of V) and also has the ramp door. Roof has a slight shape to the outside, but looks flat from a distance (no idea on the good or bad on that?) It has a vent in the roof, and I concur that adding more lights might be a good idea, as mine only came with a single light. I've added lug/wheel locks, since these trailers all come with a mag type wheel. This trailer also comes with a full 6" frame, whereas some are only 4".

This might be a good place for those who have enclosed cargo trailers to "examine" all those options?


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#11
05-16-2008, 01:49 PM
Well I finally found one I liked. I bought a 14' x 7' Haulmark with the V nose so I works out to be just under 16' which is what I was looking for. I will try to get some pics up soon. So far it seems well built and pulls about like my 16' flat bed. I haven't taken it on a long interstate run yet which is where I will probably notice the difference. Thanks for all the guidance.
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#12
05-16-2008, 02:27 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (DU_Grizz @ May 8, 2008, 4:17 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Quote:
INSAYN, thanks but I was thinking about gas milage wise.[/b]
I never even took that into consideration as my camper is taller and just as wide, and cuts through the wind about as efficiently as cutting cheese cake with a sledge hammer.

Get your floor Line-X'ed, or as my buddy did, roll on the DIY Hurculiner bed liner goop. It really really really makes leaks and spills of water, oil, gas, etc... a none issue. Bare wood soaks that stuff up, tile will eventually crack, and linoleum will guoge easy, discolor, as well as hold the smell of chemicals for a long time.


















Just yesterday, I made the first attempt to stuff 6 ATV's in my trailer at once, along with a wash machine drum firepit, generator, air compressor, trailer spare tire, tool box, fuel, and everything else that I can cram up on the shelf. I had to do it like a puzzle, but got them all in easy enough.


Here's the first 3. Two full sized, and one mini.


Slip the Genny and the compressor between the "R" and the Grizz.





The next 2. One full sized, and one midsized. They baaarely fit between the wheel wells, but I got
them in there.





Then the last full sized, with a tool box in front of it, and gas cans, and water jug behind it. Fire pit next to it,
And the spare tire just tossed in randomly. I need to build a wall mount, or door mount for the
trailer spare sometime this summer.




Just need to add some "E" track, or "VersaTie Aluminum Track" down the center for better tie down choices.



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