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post #1 of 17 Old 02-17-2013, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
 
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front diff servo-motor

looking for some input 450 kodiak 2003 , I have checked fuses switches all relays and the motor itself , all are working all power tests came back ok , now there is no power in the two connections where you do the motor test should there be ? or are these grounds, there is power on the 2 wires on the other end of the connector and none on the middle connector when I hit the switch for 4x4 nothing lights up and no movement on the servo , when I hit diff lock it just flashes and no movement on servo . Other then tearing down and tracing every wire are there any common pinch points or other common problems

Thanks Jay
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post #2 of 17 Old 02-17-2013, 02:22 PM
 
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Are you sure the relays check out?? I think there are 3 of them.

Did you try the 3 volt battery test on the servo? Like stated in the manual.

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post #3 of 17 Old 02-17-2013, 03:07 PM
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post #4 of 17 Old 02-17-2013, 07:46 PM
 
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Hello Jay! and welcome to GC!
To help you out, I'd like to offer you just a wee bit of friendly advice..find a yamaha factory service manual on the bike...

there are several resources on the web...

then you'll know exactly how the diff servo works.
they even have a step by step walk through on how to troubleshoot the exact problem you describe..

the FSM is the best tool you can find to help you through the care and feeding of your grizz


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Last edited by waltinbatonrouge; 02-17-2013 at 08:07 PM.
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post #5 of 17 Old 02-18-2013, 05:24 AM Thread Starter
 
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I have the manual and did all the checks listed and everything is as it should be except for the step where I have to trace every wire in the cicuit that is next I guess
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post #6 of 17 Old 02-18-2013, 08:48 AM
 
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I don't recall a "check every wire in the circuit" portion of the book--check the schematic in the back

walt

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post #7 of 17 Old 02-18-2013, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
 
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quote step 9

9.Wiring connection

Check the connections of the entire 2WD/
4WD selecting system.

Refer to
CIRCUIT DIAGRAM

up to here everything is good so I was just wondering if there were any common pinch points I could check before I strip her down and start tracing
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post #8 of 17 Old 02-18-2013, 06:45 PM
 
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ok...I'll work this a little with you...

step 9 makes the assumption that you have isolated the 3 relays from the harness and that they work (devices at the input end of that circuit) and that the servo itself works (at the output end of the circuit)

so..if the relays click and switch outside of the circuit
and the output device (servo) works off of the harness, and the selector switch switches and the 3amp fuse is supplying 12v ...

then the source of the missing voltage has to be the plug/jacks (connections in the harness) or an open in a wire...

right?
FIRST answer this
Do you hear each (or any) of the relays click in and out when you make a selection into EACH gear???

if yes.....then continue..if not stop and back up
the servo harness is a short harness that connects at the servo with 2 plugs. about 2 feet later it PLUGS into the main harness under the front cowl.

pull the plugs loose CAREFULLY releasing the tabs (unless you want to break them off) on the servo plug/jacks and make sure that they aren't full of dirt or other crap and blow them out with compressed air

then find the other end of the short servo harness under the cowl and check the output voltages from the relays at the mating plugs on the main harness before it goes down into the servo harness...

lemme know what you find..

Last edited by waltinbatonrouge; 02-18-2013 at 09:02 PM.
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post #9 of 17 Old 02-19-2013, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waltinbatonrouge View Post
ok...I'll work this a little with you...

step 9 makes the assumption that you have isolated the 3 relays from the harness and that they work (devices at the input end of that circuit) and that the servo itself works (at the output end of the circuit)

so..if the relays click and switch outside of the circuit
and the output device (servo) works off of the harness, and the selector switch switches and the 3amp fuse is supplying 12v ...

then the source of the missing voltage has to be the plug/jacks (connections in the harness) or an open in a wire...

right?
FIRST answer this
Do you hear each (or any) of the relays click in and out when you make a selection into EACH gear???

if yes.....then continue..if not stop and back up
the servo harness is a short harness that connects at the servo with 2 plugs. about 2 feet later it PLUGS into the main harness under the front cowl.

pull the plugs loose CAREFULLY releasing the tabs (unless you want to break them off) on the servo plug/jacks and make sure that they aren't full of dirt or other crap and blow them out with compressed air

then find the other end of the short servo harness under the cowl and check the output voltages from the relays at the mating plugs on the main harness before it goes down into the servo harness...

lemme know what you find..
checked the relays for function as in service manual = ok

no clicking from relays when switches are operated = lacking connection somewhere , checked the plugs they are clean

checked servo with battery as in manual = ok

servo does not function from harness

checked front differential manually it is working ok

sounds to me like a pinched wire but where to start ?
I guess if the relays are not working and there is power in the lead to the relay = could be a ground problem ??? maybe ? thoughts

I have new front fender to go on so when the old one comes off it will make life alot easier , this weekend I hope to get back at it
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post #10 of 17 Old 02-19-2013, 08:02 PM
 
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Hey Jay.. good work! but just to clarify... a "pinched wire" as in shorted to the frame would take out the 3A fuse one after another

and remember you tested the relays OUT of the harness with a separate 12v source per the book..so they work, just not in the harness...

anywho....so if the relays aren't clicking to switch joltage down to the servo..thats the place to start..lemme check the skizz. I'm thinking the 12v supply to the relays.... If i recall, there is a limit switch arrangement IN the servo that is in the switch path of the 12v to the coils of the relays ...but lets make sure


...back tomorrow..

walt

Last edited by waltinbatonrouge; 02-19-2013 at 08:20 PM.
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post #11 of 17 Old 02-21-2013, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waltinbatonrouge View Post
Hey Jay.. good work! but just to clarify... a "pinched wire" as in shorted to the frame would take out the 3A fuse one after another

and remember you tested the relays OUT of the harness with a separate 12v source per the book..so they work, just not in the harness...

anywho....so if the relays aren't clicking to switch joltage down to the servo..thats the place to start..lemme check the skizz. I'm thinking the 12v supply to the relays.... If i recall, there is a limit switch arrangement IN the servo that is in the switch path of the 12v to the coils of the relays ...but lets make sure


...back tomorrow..

walt
just wondering why is it you test the servo with a 3volt charge is there a low voltage source to operate the motor ?or is the voltage reduced in the servo case itself
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post #12 of 17 Old 02-21-2013, 07:38 PM
 
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Hey Jay i do appreciate the critical thinkng, it makes it funner to work with you. Initially I wondered the same thing.

But to answer your questions, neither, its a 12vdc motor...so think about it some more...then riddle me this..

..... a) in normal operation, what tells the specific relay when to de-energize to stop the servo motor from rotating too far? as in, supposed we wanted it to go just to 4wd and not all the way to diff lock?

b) now what switches off the voltage when you are holding 12v and ground directly on the leads to the motor?
so as to stop it from rotating too far and destroying the rotor inside the servo, ?

c) now considering b) above...supposed you were an engineer and wanted to stupid-proof it a bit so that there wasn't enough torque delivered by the motor to wreck anything inside when someone bench tested it. What would you do?

walt

Last edited by waltinbatonrouge; 02-22-2013 at 07:17 AM.
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post #13 of 17 Old 02-22-2013, 05:48 AM Thread Starter
 
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ok got ya low voltage less torque
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post #14 of 17 Old 02-22-2013, 06:59 AM
 
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yup. now back to the situation....so we gotta get 12v to the coil of the relays..
will look this weekend...take care...

walt

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post #15 of 17 Old 02-23-2013, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
 
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so there is 12v to the relays and they do click when i was testing the contacts at the switch as well they clicked when i was testing the connections at the servo , thinking it may be in the servo housing does this make any sense ? seems like only one of the rear relays is doing all the clicking though but if I swicth them the other relay clicks in the same connector so they are both working , so no 12v at the servo but there is a connection to the relays because the test lamp makes them click but does not light up

Last edited by jay65; 02-23-2013 at 04:17 PM. Reason: additional information
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