2011 700 grizzly no start low compression??? - Yamaha Grizzly ATV Forum
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post #1 of 28 Old 05-09-2019, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
 
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2011 700 grizzly no start low compression???

Hey guys. New to the site. Lots of good Info on here. Thanks in advance for any help. So I bought my son a 2011 700 grizzly eps model. Bought not running so I have no history on it. Has new battery and new plug and It turns over good. I've checked every thing on it and so far all checked ok. I'm down to 2 possible issues ive found. So I know it will need top end rebuild for sure but ide like to hear it run first to hear bottom end.
Problem 1 is compression is 50psi. My manual says 56 is minimum. Will it at least run with 50 psi. I even tried a little oil in cyl to bump up psi to start. Only pops and tries but no run. Same with and without oil In Cyl.
Problem 2 (possibly) is bad ecu. I say this Because all sensors and relays check good. Wires and grounds all seem to be good with ohm meter. Acts like timing issue but chain is in time. The EPS is also not working so maybe same problem. (ecu)? Ignition coil fires rapidly at first then only once per revolution. Sorry for long post. Does this sound like maybe ecu or will it just not run on 50 psi. Even with the decompression cam. thanks
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post #2 of 28 Old 05-10-2019, 05:26 AM
 
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Hey..Grizzly79..Welcome to GC from Wisconsin.

First adjust the valves.

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post #3 of 28 Old 05-10-2019, 08:40 PM
 
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X2 on valve adjustment then re check compression

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post #4 of 28 Old 05-11-2019, 10:59 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for the advice. I will check those again just to be sure.
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post #5 of 28 Old 05-12-2019, 07:50 AM
 
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While checking the valve lash check your timing marks on the flywheel for actual top dead center of piston to determine if your flywheel key is sheared. Your spark may be firing OK but maybe firing at the wrong time.

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post #6 of 28 Old 05-12-2019, 07:59 AM
 
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After checking for spark firing timing then it’s on to the voltage regulator and stator. Unfortunately I have found that both can test/ohm in spec and still cause issues leading to replacement being the only option to correct the problem.

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post #7 of 28 Old 05-13-2019, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks new grizz. My crank and cam Mark's line up perfect every time I've checked my valves so believe they hey ro ne good. The stator and pick up do ohm good but I understand they could still cause a problem. I have ordered a used ecu that will be here Wednesday just because everything I've checked has tested good including wiring and since power steering also does not work I'm hoping they are related issues. I'm at the end of the rope on things to check so I decided to try the ecu. I'll keep yall posted. Thanks a bunch for the help from everyone
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post #8 of 28 Old 05-13-2019, 10:48 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grizzly79 View Post
Thanks new grizz. My crank and cam Mark's line up perfect every time I've checked my valves so believe they hey ro ne good. The stator and pick up do ohm good but I understand they could still cause a problem. I have ordered a used ecu that will be here Wednesday just because everything I've checked has tested good including wiring and since power steering also does not work I'm hoping they are related issues. I'm at the end of the rope on things to check so I decided to try the ecu. I'll keep yall posted. Thanks a bunch for the help from everyone
Your bike WILL start and run fine even if your stator and / or voltage regulator had failed. You simply wouldn't have a functional charging system.

On my bike the EPS often doesn't work until the bike just starts moving, so don't assume that not working either.

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post #9 of 28 Old 05-13-2019, 11:08 AM
 
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Compression test read around 56 PSI once you get it cracking up to about eight hundred RPMs the compression should be closer to 70 PSI.

Having the same compression with and without oil usually means the valves aren't closing or there's a hole in the Piston or something drastic. There may be a chance that you're not at top dead center you could be a hundred eighty degrees out. Are you using the cam gear to set the valve timing? Or just the flywheel timing marks?

If the stator and the sensor ohm correctly. That's probably not the problem. It's been reported a few times that someone installed the sensor in correctly and it won't start. You would have to open it up to check out the sensor

Can you hear the fuel pump cycle on for 3 or 4 seconds and then shut off when you turn on the key?

If you squirt starting fluid or something like that in the intake will it pop with fire at all?

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26" ML XTRs
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post #10 of 28 Old 05-13-2019, 02:42 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reogem View Post
Compression test read around 56 PSI once you get it cracking up to about eight hundred RPMs the compression should be closer to 70 PSI.

Having the same compression with and without oil usually means the valves aren't closing or there's a hole in the Piston or something drastic. There may be a chance that you're not at top dead center you could be a hundred eighty degrees out. Are you using the cam gear to set the valve timing? Or just the flywheel timing marks?

If the stator and the sensor ohm correctly. That's probably not the problem. It's been reported a few times that someone installed the sensor in correctly and it won't start. You would have to open it up to check out the sensor

Can you hear the fuel pump cycle on for 3 or 4 seconds and then shut off when you turn on the key?

If you squirt starting fluid or something like that in the intake will it pop with fire at all?

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I agree with reogem, could be a bent valve or something as well. Is there any evidence of it going for a swim? If it has, there's possibility that either it bent a valve, or bent the connecting rod. either way, it would drop compression for you, without change if you added oil. might also explain the EPS, if that got swamped, and never dried out.

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post #11 of 28 Old 05-13-2019, 07:08 PM
 
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[QUOTE=Vincent;1097907]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grizzly79 View Post
Thanks new grizz. My crank and cam Mark's line up perfect every time I've checked my valves so believe they hey ro ne good. The stator and pick up do ohm good but I understand they could still cause a problem. I have ordered a used ecu that will be here Wednesday just because everything I've checked has tested good including wiring and since power steering also does not work I'm hoping they are related issues. I'm at the end of the rope on things to check so I decided to try the ecu. I'll keep yall posted. Thanks a bunch for the help from everyone
Your bike WILL start and run fine even if your stator and / or voltage regulator had failed. You simply wouldn't have a functional charging system.

Sorry bub but my 660 would not start (spark) until I replaced the regulator.
My 600 would not start (spark) until I replaced the stator.

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post #12 of 28 Old 05-13-2019, 07:20 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewGrizz View Post

Sorry bub but my 660 would not start (spark) until I replaced the regulator.
My 600 would not start (spark) until I replaced the stator.
Well,

I have the same generation of fuel injected Grizzly as Grizzly79. I just had a stator and regulator failure two weeks ago because I bracket wore threw the stator wires, grounded and fried both my stator and voltage regulator.

My bike started and ran perfectly fine right off battery power. So I can say with experience that YES his bike will run without a functional regulator or stator
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post #13 of 28 Old 05-13-2019, 08:00 PM
 
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Also consider the FI ignition is completely different from the carb models.



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Twin sister 16 Kodiak EPS 700 Dirty Egg Salad (Camo)
Grezzzless CVT 22g
26.5" Pitbull Growlers Uber XOR
STI HD1 Beadlock Wheels


Hers 16 Kodiak EPS 700 Camo
26.5" Pitbull Growlers Uber XOR
STI HD1 Wheels


2013 Ole blue 700
Putting out to Stud 21365 miles
360/120 CVT
26" ML XTRs
stocker wheels
grezzzless clutch.
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post #14 of 28 Old 05-17-2019, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for all the post. Good to know about the steering not working untill it moves so hopefully that will work later. . My eps light never comes on tho. So update on engine.... I have re adjusted my valves. My compression is now 70 psi at cranking speed. I believe that to be ok according to my manual. I have a new ignition coil. Ohms on pick up coil is in spec and it does not ground out when cranking. I have also replaced the ecu. Ive removed throttle body and The injector sprays fuel when cranking. I'm lost as to why it doesnt run. I mechanic every day and I'm stumped. It just pops and and acts like it wants to run but wont. I've tried starter fluid to. Still just pops and no start. Acts like timing but dont see how. Also maybe be a different problem but it sometimes is hard to crank. Makes cables hot and starter hot. Like the decompression isnt working but it seems to be fine.
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post #15 of 28 Old 05-17-2019, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
 
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I'm just not sure what I'm missing. I thought I had covered the basics. Been all through the wiring. Found no trouble.
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