time to do the brakes - Yamaha Grizzly ATV Forum
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post #1 of 9 Old 05-02-2012, 06:28 AM Thread Starter
 
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time to do the brakes

It's time, was wondering where is a good place to get new pads. Should I also replace the rotors (they seem to be true)? I was also thinking of going to ss braided brake lines has anyone done this either?

thanks for the help.

'07 700 (in Fast Green!27x9 , 27x11 XTRs
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post #2 of 9 Old 05-02-2012, 06:51 AM
 
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if the rotors have a burr on them, will wear the pads out faster, if still good, I would run them, we have changed our pads a half dozen times and sometimes down to the metal (mudding). I had to put new rotor on my sons, but the metal pad was completely gone on that deal....yes gone. Just a small piece at the top....Also had new calipers because they were bent.

My mechanic: "never saw that before"....then laughs...We do this work ourselves now.


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2014 Grizzly 550 EPS, Richochet Full Set Skids, Fender Flares, Yamaha front Brush Guard, Moose Rear Bumper, Front and Rear cargo Box, Icom 2980 Ham Radio & 12 volt lithium battery in front box

2015 Grizzly 700 Eps, Warn Winch, Richochet full plate skids, OEM Hand Guards, Rigid Duallies, Fender Flares, ITP rims, 26 Bighorns, 1.5 mm shim (Ridgway Install)

2010 Yamaha Grizzly 700 FI EPS
My Sons: 29.5 laws or 27" Bighorns, SS12 ITP Rims, Richochet Full Set Skids, performance Snorkels, 1.5mm shim, Yamaha Brush Bumper, Moose rear bumper, Epi clutch kit, ATV nerf bars, Warn winch.

2009 Yamaha Grizzly 700 FI EPS Yamaha skid plates, Yamaha hand guard, Yamaha Brush bumper, Moose fender flares, ATV Nerf Bars, EPI Clutch Kit, Rigid Duallies, 1mm shim, Moose GPS Finger Grip mount, Garmin GPS, Warn winch, Performance Snorkles, 27" Bighorns, SS12 ITP Platinum rims.
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post #3 of 9 Old 05-02-2012, 07:22 AM
 
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Race Driven for the pads.

09 Blue Armour 700EPS 27" XTR's on 14's, HMF utility, K&N, HMF Optimizer, Mad Mikes mod's 2&3, 8-16 gram weights with orange secondary spring, Tiger Tail, Full Ricochet Skids, Warn XT 2500, Tamarack rear box, Rotopax gas/gas, storage/first aid. 08 Blue 700FI 27" XTR's on 12's, PCIII, K&N, Full Ricochet Skids, Warn RT 2500. Wemac
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post #4 of 9 Old 05-02-2012, 07:30 AM
 
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04zrx, i just did a complete rebuild of my front calipers. I'm changing over to Dot 5 and that requires you to flush out the entire system (done the right way). Only part left if the master cylinder mounted on the right hand brake (of course).

My rotors had small grooves in them. Since I had the rotors and hubs off for front differential seal replacement, I carefully flat sanded down the rotors to remove “some” of the grooves. The thickness of my rotors are still way within spec so I did not replace them.

Never thought about braided lines. Let me know how that goes. I would assume those would have to be custom made for you?

EDIT: now is a good time to evaluate your calipers. If one pad is worn more than the other, it is time to take the caliper off and clean it (every part). The caliper is supposed to "float" off the bracket on two pins. Mine were packed with mud and dirt and one pad was worn more than the other. Rebuilding them is not that hard....Only tough part, is you will need serious air pressure to get the pistons out as well as a rubber tipped attachment...then BANG! out she comes, across the room for me - lol.

Scott
'02 Gizzly 660, ITP T7 Beadlocks on 26" OP Bighorns, Greaseless, UTVCrap Machined Sheave, Dynojet (DJ155 w/#45 pilot), DizGrizz RX-5032 K&N Mod, 2" Stainless Tip ... dats it

Last edited by swdockter; 05-02-2012 at 08:41 AM.
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post #5 of 9 Old 05-02-2012, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
 
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thanks guys keep 'em coming, I'll check Race driven..

'07 700 (in Fast Green!27x9 , 27x11 XTRs
Home made air box lid mod w outerwear
Home made 2 up foot pegs
K & N air filter
1 1/2" wheel spacers
Yamaha Over fenders
Warn winch with Amsteel synthetic line
HMF Swamp series slip on exhaust w/ optimizer (junk!)
Digital temp gauge
EPI orange secondary spring and 1.5mm shim, 500 stall springs
ODI Rogue grips
Custom rock sliders (maintaining stock ground clearance)
Rox risers and aero Fly barz
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post #6 of 9 Old 05-02-2012, 09:19 AM
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post #7 of 9 Old 05-02-2012, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
 
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here's a new question: do I NEED to do my brakes? How do I tell if I need to do them? My Grizz has 1203 miles on it brakes do still work I was just thinking I might get improved stopping power with new stuff. What do you think.

'07 700 (in Fast Green!27x9 , 27x11 XTRs
Home made air box lid mod w outerwear
Home made 2 up foot pegs
K & N air filter
1 1/2" wheel spacers
Yamaha Over fenders
Warn winch with Amsteel synthetic line
HMF Swamp series slip on exhaust w/ optimizer (junk!)
Digital temp gauge
EPI orange secondary spring and 1.5mm shim, 500 stall springs
ODI Rogue grips
Custom rock sliders (maintaining stock ground clearance)
Rox risers and aero Fly barz
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post #8 of 9 Old 05-02-2012, 06:25 PM
 
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Check you pads? Fronts wear faster.

07 7??. 29.5 Laws, Barkers Duals, PCV with auto tune, Dyna, Fully Snorkeled, rad relocated, airdam//WCD + ,Gorilla's. PARTING OUT
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post #9 of 9 Old 05-03-2012, 06:13 AM Thread Starter
 
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I'm going to order new pads and when I install them I'll flush all the old fluid out and put new in. I think brake fluid is only good for a few years...Mine is going on 5 years now I think I should change it out.

'07 700 (in Fast Green!27x9 , 27x11 XTRs
Home made air box lid mod w outerwear
Home made 2 up foot pegs
K & N air filter
1 1/2" wheel spacers
Yamaha Over fenders
Warn winch with Amsteel synthetic line
HMF Swamp series slip on exhaust w/ optimizer (junk!)
Digital temp gauge
EPI orange secondary spring and 1.5mm shim, 500 stall springs
ODI Rogue grips
Custom rock sliders (maintaining stock ground clearance)
Rox risers and aero Fly barz
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