Yamaha Grizzly ATV Forum banner

660 what works.

24K views 152 replies 14 participants last post by  BlindJax 
#1 · (Edited)
660 what works?

Howdy, Got a 2004 and I really want to tear into it, but I would like to ask a few questions and save some money using your knowledge and experiences so I don't end up saying ah f*c% me.

I'd like to just stay on one thread easier for me to find so if I ask something and it's been posted surely feel free to point me in that direction and I will do my best to locate the info first.

I'm no mechanic by any means so plenty of pictures and videos really help. Love youtube, I figure you guys done it all and this is my first atv so I kinda don't want to screw it up.

If I had to give a first time buyer advice it would be check your local laws first. I'm country and living in a city just sucks when it comes to not being able to do all the ******* shit your use to. Think I need a couple more post before I can add pictures.

Thanks
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tinkerbell
#9 ·
  • Like
Reactions: BlindJax
#3 ·
Hey...BlindJax...
Start by learning to search the site. But don't hesitate to ask either.
Use this in google site grizzlycentral replace this works with what you are looking for like this..

site grizzlycentral 660 brake repair

site grizzlycentral 660 frontdriveshaft
 
#4 ·
Thank you reogem, Yeah I do a lot of searching what I find my problem is I don't know the terminology or part names and it takes me a bit longer to find everything. Like my jeep I was looking for the thing that holds the head lights in come to find out it's called a header panel "search lots of google pictures" I called it everything but that,lol. Same for my ram although I was lucky enough to find a parts catalog so I could cross reference the numbers and stay away from lazy dealership parts departments.

Now I'm worried I'll strip them, yehaw.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tinkerbell
#5 · (Edited)
stood the bike up today to take a look see and this axle bearing seems to be shot I just don't know the name of it. In the picture it is the joint going towards the front of the bike into front differential.
 

Attachments

#12 ·
Look it up on their site, put in year, brand, model, etc. and it should give you the part #
 
  • Like
Reactions: BlindJax
#15 ·
I did and what threw me was the model YFM66. The other is terminology Yamaha says drive shaft, others say rear differential so being new to all this that threw me off in finding part numbers.

Also was looking for three hex head screws for the drains so when gold asked if it was for engine that threw me off. Tell ya it plays hard on folks when someone like me comes into their shop and ask if they have a do hickey for a whatcha ma call it.

I like to DIY a lot of stuff. Give example course at the time when I was fixing my 1965 rotor tiller I had no idea these names but the freeze plug fell out of my carburetor so headed to the HW store ended up with a Pronged M4 t-nut and a rubber stop and washer and bolt made my own plug been in the tiller 5 years now and tell ya most these cats that they hire are no help.

If I can confirm handle bars at the grips is 7/8s I may try this idea for some hand covers or such. Found this link when looking for magnetic bolts kinda seems worth while. What you think?

Oil Filter Magnet by GWR saves fuel, increases enging life, reduces wear, reduces oil change intervals. Patented magnet fit inside oil filter and saves fuel.
 
#14 ·
Roger that desrat thanks, I have a Tecspark pdf service manual on my tablet. I Was just wondering if there was a step by step like Haynes, Chilton, Clymer, Yamaha that you guy have found to be better illustrated.
 
#17 ·
blind...I've forgot this on every post. I'm losing it I guess.
You can use the same google search syntax to find you posts on the forum.
Site grizzlycentral BlindJax
 
#19 · (Edited)
Yeah I'm kinda strange O.C.D so I like it all in one area. I know it will be a down fall but as much as I don't know what I am doing, this way I can keep my mess in one thread,lol.

Did you see that link for the in filter magnates. Think I will order some next week and give it a try also found a youtube vid on making your own magnetic drain plugs. I'm going to try that too once I figure those lengths.

I'll take all advice good or constructive. If I can spend 5 to save 13 plus shipping I'll give it a try.

Thanks again.

Oh I know someone said buy the bands first then buy the tool for them but I'm looking at these tools.

I like this one but could see it being bulky trying to fix on the fly.
https://www.otctools.com/products/cv-joint-banding-tool-and-cutter

This one just looks cheesy but you can pick it up for a couple bucks and am sure it works just would it work with me.

Norrec Industries - Hex Banding Tool Instructions


May get both. In your experience what would be better?
 
#21 ·
Thank you, I stumbled onto that Norrec site by accident while looking for the band tool so I'll put that link in my things to get done bookmark folder.
 
#22 ·
Think I'll try this out just to see if it works may help me start the bike when it won't go into park or neutral, least till I can find a fix for that too,lol Every time I find an issue I hear the guy who sold it to me say "I took real good care of it"

 
#23 ·
#25 ·
920191 is the correct number for the boot set.
On their website it looks like the clamp is 254mm long.
You can pick up a band at most auto parts stores. Take in an old one if you can.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BlindJax
#28 ·
Parts discounters axles, driveshafts and engine couplers are exceptional upgrades to the oem stuff. I bought 2 HD front axles for less than price of one oem or big brand stuff.
Those front engine and differential couplers should be replaced at same time as driveshaft or you'll have the same problem with water n mud getting and wearing it down prematurely.
Factory service manual from yamaha is a very good resource. I downloaded mine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BlindJax
#29 ·
Thanks Rkcrwlr, Waiting for the ole woman to loosen the purse strings before I jump into this thing. I was thinking of having the coupler extended and maybe do what reogem suggested, did they fix this issue in the newer models?

You think that front shaft is wasted? I know good sense would be to replace it but if I can get by. I'll get all the parts reogem suggested and that should fix mine right up with just minor things left that I can do when ever.

Do you know what those heat shield gourmets are made of?

I downloaded a manual Tecspark then printed it,was looking at Clymer said it has a color coded wire diagram, I'll see if I can find the yamaha service manual.

I have a bunch of 12v stuff left over from when I had my jeep not much room on those handlebars to add much so that's what I have been doing. This site and the members seem pretty helpful. wish some of the picture weren't dead same for the links.

One other I don't ride it with that front coupler whacked but we might get some snow and man oh man I'm itchin to ride in it, you think it would cause more damage if I just drove in two wheel?

Sure do appreciate yours and everyone's time.
 
#30 ·
The front driveshaft turns at all times on a Yamaha, whether in 2wd or 4wd. If the driveshaft and couplers have a lot of play, I wouldn't ride it. If it does completely fail, it may turn into a lot more money to repair. Additionally, many times the driveshaft makes contact with a breather tube located to the right of it and puts a hole in it. More money to repair. So even if the shaft does not fail, it can still so damage to other parts. It's just best to fix it now that found it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BlindJax
#31 · (Edited)
I did the same thing as what reogem suggested about moving the front diff rearwards a 1/4" to take up the slop for the time being until I can actually order the driveshaft and BOTH couplers with seals and do the whole thing at once.
Something to think of is that loose driveshaft has or will eventually wear the pinion bearing in the front diff if left loose and unattended. Just FYI :)
PS- look near the top of this section for the FAQ thread by IDIGGPLANTS . a lot of useful info there for general maintenance, common problems an fixes as well as mods. Check it out
 
  • Like
Reactions: BlindJax
#33 ·
Thanks Rkcrwlr. I took off the front fender,grille all of its off so I could see what you all where talking about I seen the front coupler, it's pretty solid but I will replaces all that while it's open.

Going to flush the rad, I cleaned all the mud out of it so now I'll change fluids, I noticed some mention engine ice so I googled it and ran across another product, what you guys think?

I don't think Jay's every funny but they said once you change over you never have to change it life of the vehicle.



any thoughts on this stuff?
 
#35 ·
Here's a thought. I haven't tried this and will when I get the parts, front couplers, when I replace them I might try and slip a cut pieces of bicycle tube over them should be a tight fit which should curl in any hang over and form around the exposed spines. Just a idea.


Took a bunch of pics as I took apart the fenders and wire connection so I wouldn't forget went to add them to my pc and deleted them, "dumb ass". Anyways since its apart anyone think it's a good idea to use di-electric grease on the electric plugs?

Thanks in advance. I live a O.C.D life so those dried on mud stains bug me whats the best cleaner for those?
 
#36 ·
Mean Green works good on removing the mud stains. A bristle brush on the engine and metal parts helps also.

Definitely apply dielectric grease to every electrical connection you can access. Now is the time to do it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BlindJax
#38 ·
#39 ·
Part 23 part# 5KM-45593-00-00 is correct.
The front one on the diff is always in much better shape.
When installing either coupler use a little dab of blue lock-tite and a torque wrench.

You are building a great 660 reference thread! Keep it going.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BlindJax
#40 · (Edited)
When I looked at your picture with the red arrow, yes that is the engine side coupler. Just an FYI, you got a lot of wear there. I can see that just from the picture. The CV joint should not be tilted in the coupler like that. It be straight out of the coupler, and the cv joint should be on an angle.
NOT the cv joint be straight and the splines on an angle.....haha

Your absolute best bet is too replace the shaft and coupler. Replacing just the one will prematurely wear out the new part in a short time.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BlindJax
#113 · (Edited)
#47 ·
I think that filter is excellent. I would have no problem running it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BlindJax
#50 ·
Reusable oil filter



I like the idea of less waste although not sure it would pay for itself in saving money on other filters piece of mind environmentally will be worth it. I wish they would show part numbers so I could find cheaper product. I did find this on amazon and a couple other sites say the PCS1 is for the grizzly just don't know.

http://www.amazon.com/PC-Racing-PCS...32363&sr=8-28&keywords=grizzly+660+oil+filter
 
#48 ·
How to Change Front and Rear Wheel Bearings on a 2003 - 2006 Yamaha Grizzly 660 ATV

Not my video, so I only know it works on my o4 grizzly. Sometimes a video, pictures or explanation on the project gives a person enough confidence to do it without all the second guessing.

Would any of you ole timers and mechanics mind if I were to take some of your postings and quote them in this thread? I find tons of good stuff here then the A.D.D kicks in and I'm off looking for something else and can't always remember where it's at.


 
#49 ·
660 Exhaust parts list

I have a leak at this point "red arrow" #21 Gasket, Silencer
3YF-14755-00-00 should fix that?


I'll pull exhaust and clean all the rust off it
so should I just go ahead and replace? #28 x2 Gasket, Exhaust Pipe
3YF-14613-01-00.


I want to see what these are made of
Grommet x6
90480-01009-00



2004 Yamaha GRIZZLY 660 (YFM660FS) Exhaust | Babbitts Yamaha Partshouse





Text Auto part Diagram Technical drawing Line art


Thanks for any advise
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top