New 2019 grizzly build. insight on tuning tips ect. inside - Yamaha Grizzly ATV Forum
Grizzly Tech Tips Technical articles, tips, tricks and advice from the experts and your fellow Grizzly owners.

 1Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 27 Old 11-22-2018, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
BB1
 
BB1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 35
Thanks: 0
Thanked 11 Times in 6 Posts
Rep Power: 0
   
New 2019 grizzly build. insight on tuning tips ect. inside

So I have about 50 miles on the new wheeler and have already done about all the mods I am going to be doing to the bike. I figured I would keep y'all up to date on what i have learned and done to give y'all some ideas.
So as soon as I got it, it got a highlifter snorkel, SS 212 wheels and 29.5 og outlaws pretty much that same weekend.
The next week I got all the clutch stuff done. Went with 1.5 shims, epi white spring, epi wet clutch springs with slugs.
Next I got with Eric at EHS and ordered the umi air filter clamp on kit and his tuner.
This is where it got tricky. He hasn't done any 19's yet so both the air filter mod and tuner was for a 16-18.
When I was installing the air filter kit, I noticed that the 19 already basically has what his kit did from the factory. (Getting rid of the snorkel intake running down the length of some of the inside of filter.) Although the filter doesn't clamp on from the factory. The intake is flush with the inlet of the filter. You could make the clamp on adapter still work but you wouldn't want to cut any of the intake tube like the instructions say as it's already the correct length.
Next up was the exhaust. I didn't want it loud so I wanted to utilize the factory muffler. What I did was first cut the spark arrestor off flush with the cap. It remained about the same loudness and tone but just definitely let more air pressure out the exhaust.
I wanted a little tone so I I holesawed the welds where the small tip sticks out the cap. I went down to the AutoZone and found a tip for a lil ricer car that had a nice smooth turndown that was the same diameter. I cut a straight section of it off and welded it to the end cap. Painted the end cap flat black and Installed the cap back on the muffler.
I knew I was going to be installing a wideband so while I had the exhaust off I welded a bung for the wideband. I put it all on and fired it up! I was shocked how well it sounded! Perfect tone. Not stupid loud but definitely had a growl to it and noticeable!
Next up was installing the wideband, stereo head unit, amps, building the speaker tubes, tuner ect.
I had removed the center drybox when I installed the highlifter snorkel so I already knew where I was going to mount the wideband, tuner, and head unit.
I used a boss marine head unit and holsawed the lid for 3". Next I cut a 2-1/8" hole for the wideband. Mounted it all and started wiring.
There's a ton of room under there with the drybox gone. Wired everything up and ran RCA's to the front of the wheeler. Along with the switched power wires for the amps inside the 6" pvc y's. It's 4 x infinity 6.5" marine speakers and 2 100x2 watt board amps. One in each tube. Got all the stereo crap done and cranked it up! All I can say is wow! The clarity and loudness of this system will piss off your whole neighborhood! Lol
Next was tuning.
I installed the tuner and used one peice of Velcro under the lid so I can store it under there when I'm not tuning on it and one right in between the seat and lid for mounting it while tuning. I also blocked off the AIS on the airbox while I was under there.
Right off the battery I realized that the 19's are nowhere as lean as the 18's from the factory.
Im at sea level here in Texas and With the tune for the 2018 on it I noticed it idled around 11.5 AFR and slight tip in was around 13 AFR. With the stock tune from the factory she idled about 13ish and slight throttle was tip in was around 14.
So I hooked the tuner back up and started tuning.. I ended up turning the green idle setting all the way down as far as it would go to get back to the 13 AFR at idle but then the light throttle tip in was in the 15's AFR. I messed with the blue green settings and bumped them up to about 5 to get the fuel to come in sooner to get the light throttle back into the 13's. It's about 13.8 which I can live with. Next was getting the yellow acceleration correct. The 18' tune was pretty damn close and the AFR was around the high 12's which is about perfect but I noticed there was a delay on on how long it took for it to add the extra fuel. So I bumped the blue yellow setting (I believe) up a few notches to about 4 or 5 to get it to bring the fuel in faster. It shoots for mid 13's to mid 12's almost immediately. The throttle response is just insane off idle and the bike in low gear will literally just stand straight up if you crack the throttle fast from a stop even with the 29.5 outlaws.
I haven't had a chance to get the full throttle setting (red) tested yet because the weather has been shitty and the holidays and such but I'll report back as soon with what actual #'s for the settings I come up with for all the different throttle positions after I get a chance to open it up. Eric is also working on getting a 19' in the shop for testing so he will be releasing the tuners for the 19's pre programmed in the near future. I tune cars for a living here in Houston so I didn't mind recalibrating a 18' tune for my bike. And I run widebands on all my bikes, cars, and atv's so it wasn't a big deal.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20181119_205115780_1542941328158.jpg
Views:	368
Size:	4.21 MB
ID:	77201   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20181118_200143883_1542941355439.jpg
Views:	552
Size:	1.02 MB
ID:	77203   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20181118_200221029_1542941375293.jpg
Views:	282
Size:	1.17 MB
ID:	77205   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20181118_173203701_1542941418256.jpg
Views:	280
Size:	3.92 MB
ID:	77207   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20181118_051433505_1542941469526.jpg
Views:	291
Size:	1.39 MB
ID:	77209  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20181116_234952382_1542941536116.jpg
Views:	255
Size:	1.16 MB
ID:	77211  
BB1 is offline  
The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to BB1 For This Useful Post:
Hammerhead (11-22-2018), Pjniez (12-07-2018), RansomP (12-05-2018), rosscopeeko (02-22-2019)
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 27 Old 11-22-2018, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
BB1
 
BB1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 35
Thanks: 0
Thanked 11 Times in 6 Posts
Rep Power: 0
   
A few more pics of the exhaust installed
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20181122_210027489_1542942184427.jpg
Views:	171
Size:	712.1 KB
ID:	77213   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20181122_210042985_1542942202262.jpg
Views:	157
Size:	3.34 MB
ID:	77215   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20181122_210036779_1542942226289.jpg
Views:	159
Size:	3.69 MB
ID:	77217  
BB1 is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to BB1 For This Useful Post:
Pjniez (12-07-2018)
post #3 of 27 Old 11-23-2018, 12:07 AM
 
MNDirtRider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Plymouth, MN
Age: 47
Posts: 832
Thanks: 304
Thanked 426 Times in 269 Posts
Rep Power: 88
                     
Wow! You've been busy! Congratulations on a great looking Grizzly and nice job on all the add-ons. I do have one question for you - you said slugs and EPI wet clutch springs? I know you're turning some big tires with your set up but if I'm not mistaken, the wet clutch springs in an EPI kit are typically either 500 or 1000 RPM stall springs. If that's what you have, those springs and slugs are working against each other. The slugs are trying to engage the wet clutch shoes earlier (at a lower RPM) and the set clutch stall springs are trying to delay the engagement (at a higher RPM). Maybe I'm misreading your post and if so, I apologize.

2012 Grizzly 700 EPS (bought new in 2012)
ITP 212 12 inch wheels - 26" Interco Reptiles - JBS Sheave with .5 mm shim - Yamaha Glide Plate - Ricochet A-arm guards - Moose Front & Rear Bumpers - PowerMadd Hand Guards - Pelican 1470 case - Moose Aluminum Rear Box - Symtec Heated Grips - Warn RT30 Winch - Moose 60" straight plow - ROX Speed Riser Kit

2005 Grizzly 660 SE (bought used in 2018)
ITP C4 wheels - BearClaw HTR 26" tires - Viper 3500 Syn - Auxbeam 12" light bar - Heat Demon Grips

2005 Grizzly 80 (bought used)

2016 Wolverine R-Spec (bought new May 2017)
STI wheels - 27" CST Clincher tires - Superwinch Terra 4500 Syn.
MNDirtRider is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 27 Old 11-23-2018, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
BB1
 
BB1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 35
Thanks: 0
Thanked 11 Times in 6 Posts
Rep Power: 0
   
Thanks man. You're reading it right lol. Some people say to run the slugs with the springs and some say not to. The theory behind it is the springs help raise the rpm before the clutch engages and the slugs help let the clutch grab harder once it does. Without the weights the rpm would be higher but not as much inertia leading to pre-mature clutch wear. They kind of cancel each other out to some extent but the springs I think still are strong enough to raise the engagement slightly higher the stock.
BB1 is offline  
post #5 of 27 Old 11-23-2018, 11:56 AM
 
dezz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Age: 37
Posts: 4,915
Thanks: 745
Thanked 1,802 Times in 1,397 Posts
Rep Power: 93
                     
Garage
I love your bike.

I wish it was parked in my garage....lol.
dezz is offline  
post #6 of 27 Old 11-23-2018, 10:45 PM Thread Starter
BB1
 
BB1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 35
Thanks: 0
Thanked 11 Times in 6 Posts
Rep Power: 0
   
Thanks lol it's definitely come along way in About a month of having it
BB1 is offline  
post #7 of 27 Old 12-05-2018, 04:20 AM
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 66
Thanks: 0
Thanked 24 Times in 15 Posts
Rep Power: 17
     
Very intresting found regards the AFR on the 19's.
I got an 2019 on order today, and would gladly open up the stock 23mm outlet without the sparky chamber inside without use any tuner if the afr ratio stays in safe zoone?

Do you have any pics of the 2019 airbox/filter?
jparacing is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to jparacing For This Useful Post:
Pjniez (12-07-2018)
post #8 of 27 Old 12-05-2018, 10:37 AM
 
venom97's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Central Il
Age: 37
Posts: 217
Thanks: 32
Thanked 122 Times in 60 Posts
Rep Power: 69
                 
Garage
Excellent post and ride you have! Thanks for sharing!

2017 Grizzly 700 eps (snow camo)
STI Wheels

2013 Grizzly 700 eps (camo)
ITP SS212 Wheels
Mega Mayhems

2005 Grizzly 660 (red)
ITP Wheels
Kenda Executioners


2007 grizzly 700 eps (sold)
YACC Member #36


https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCuf...hpG7qcRrVbE6EQ
venom97 is offline  
post #9 of 27 Old 12-10-2018, 05:04 AM Thread Starter
BB1
 
BB1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 35
Thanks: 0
Thanked 11 Times in 6 Posts
Rep Power: 0
   
A little update. Here are the settings that I have came up with using the EHS tuner with 2 1/4 exhaust tip with the modified umi filter with the blamp on adapter also from ehs.
This is for sea level and about 50 weather.
Green -2.5 green/blue- 2
Yellow- 4 yellow/blue- 5
Red - 1.5 red/blue - 1
This puts idle @ 12.5ish AFR
Light tip in/cruising @14.0
Fast throttle tip in/half throttle @13.0
Full throttle @ 12.8ish
The reason for the 12.5 idle is because I found that the exhaust and engine seem to run the coolest right around there. With the fan briefly coming on @207 and turning off @180ish within a few seconds.
Also the green settings seems to control idle and light throttle like a pilot jet in a carb. The 2019 is lean around 16-17afr at very light throttle but gooe around 13-13.5 @ idle from the factory.
You have to kinda just deal with a little richer idle to get the light throttle cruising good. Stoich for regular gas is 14.68 AFR so cruising around 14.0 is good mpg and keeps the temps under control while cruising and light loads.
Remember that too much fuel will crank EGT's up really fast and lean afrs tend to just make the engine itself run hot.
You want a happy medium. I usually aim for keeping the wideband in the 12-14 range through all loads and throttle positions. The more load/throttle being more in the 12-13 range and vice/versa. Engines usually tend to last forever in this range with being regularly maintained. Oil, ect.
I will get pictures of the airbox and filter tomorrow.
Basically you don't need to hard mount the adapter to the box using screws like you do on the 16-18's. You also DO NOT CUT the intake snorkel going into the airbox like the instructions say for 16-18. The snorkel part is already shorter on the 19's.
Just slide the adapter in the bell end of the tube going in the airbox (I also used 3m weather stripping adhesive to make more of a permanent seal to keep the adapter from ever slipping out)
But I doubt it would ever because the end of the umi filter is pressed up against the back of the airbox keeping pressure on it.
Then just put the airfilter on and tighten the clamp. Easy as pie. Took 5 minutes to install it.

As far as needing a tuner for just opening the exhaust tip up, it seems that this bike is really restricted by that tip and spark arrestor. Modifying it the way I did believe it or not moved the AFR about .5 leaner everywhere.
I wouldn't say you dont NEED to tune it but with the factory tune already being lean in certain spots I would definitely recommend it.
The power/throttle response and ability to wheelie at will is well worth the few minor changes I have done to the bike. It's night and day different from stock.

Now I'm just waiting on the jbs machined sheave and RED spring that I'm going to be testing for James. It's supposed to be even stiffer then the eps white spring. I'm interested to see what the sheave plus shims with the stiffer spring does compared to just shimming the stock sheave with white spring.
I'll keep y'all updated.
BB1 is offline  
post #10 of 27 Old 12-10-2018, 02:10 PM
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 66
Thanks: 0
Thanked 24 Times in 15 Posts
Rep Power: 17
     
Big thank's for your updating man!
What gas did Yamaha state that you should use?

I live in europe, and here it stands E5 or E10 that's 95 octane eu fuel (us 91) with 5 or 10% corn.

I just wonder bequse my past 2018 kodiak 700 run stronger with the ehs tuner of, then with it on even with a tip at the exhaust.

It's so dam enyoying that one part of the fuel register have to be f...ed up just for the regulations.

Btw, I hope Eric at EHS will step on the 2019's as soon as posible.
He never answer my emails, so I have no idea of if he is in the game for now or what.
Vids like for the older 700's would be great.
jparacing is offline  
post #11 of 27 Old 12-10-2018, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
BB1
 
BB1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 35
Thanks: 0
Thanked 11 Times in 6 Posts
Rep Power: 0
   
I don't know what they recommend but down here I run 93 octane which is the same as your e10.
Eric is working on the 19's he just hasn't got any in yet to tinker with. That's part of the reason I'm doing what I'm doing to mine. To be able to give him some feedback. I'm constantly adjusting little here and there with the controller. Certain load situations will throw it off a tad like being stuck in some serious mud that the motor is trying to get the tires moving but being lugged down at a low rpm with full throttle ect. Will throw the AFR off a little.
It's almost like I'm constantly getting one thing perfect, then adjusting it again in a different situation. The settings I have now seem to be the best average I can get this far. I just wish i was able to actually build a VE table based on TPS vs. MAP like I do in cars but for the most part the ability to ramp the fuel in sooner with this tuner is really saving my ass from pulling my hair out in certain circumstances lol.
Only real complaint is the green settings sharing idle with light throttle. That gets annoying.
If I could I would have idle AND light throttle at 14.0 and 12.7 everywhere else. Simple but a pain. I need more settings basically like a graph based map more or less.
BB1 is offline  
post #12 of 27 Old 12-14-2018, 01:44 PM
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 66
Thanks: 0
Thanked 24 Times in 15 Posts
Rep Power: 17
     
Looking forward to see what Eric find out about the 2019 maping.

Got my new 2019 today, and the header glows nice red at idle .., if rising the rpm just a little, it stops glowing.
Bike seems to be very reponsive, would be thankfull if any one now's if the ecu differs in eu compaired to the us.


Btw, thank's for posting your finds!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20181214_140148_1544816422639.jpg
Views:	127
Size:	3.34 MB
ID:	77467  
jparacing is offline  
post #13 of 27 Old 12-14-2018, 11:34 PM Thread Starter
BB1
 
BB1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 35
Thanks: 0
Thanked 11 Times in 6 Posts
Rep Power: 0
   
Not sure if the ecu is mapped different. Good looking bike! Love the green! What elevation are you at? Removing the spark arrestor and blocking off the AIS helped tremendously with exhaust heat on mine. The left side of my bike was hot on my leg before now you don't even feel it.
BB1 is offline  
post #14 of 27 Old 12-15-2018, 03:12 AM
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 66
Thanks: 0
Thanked 24 Times in 15 Posts
Rep Power: 17
     
Yea, the green is a great looking machine in my opinion to.
Thinked of the backcountry blue at first, but I didnt whant painted bodywork and wide rims in the end for what I'm using it to.

I'm at 150 meter osl.
Today it's -15 celsius here, so the grizz get a day of, and the header wouldent glow anyway ... 🤣

For my past kodiak 700, I removed the catalytic in the muffler, and removed the sparkarrestor part of the tip, it runed great and sound lovely .
Way colder then stock even with the tuner turned of.

The reson I wonder if US and EU has the same maping, is that the Kodiak runed better with the tuner turned of then on with a more open tip.
With the barker slipon it seemed to like a little more fuel down low.
jparacing is offline  
post #15 of 27 Old 12-22-2018, 05:16 AM
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 66
Thanks: 0
Thanked 24 Times in 15 Posts
Rep Power: 17
     
Here is two pics of what the stock muffler looks inside if you whant to take the catalytic out, and where to cut it.
This pics are of my 2018 Kodiak 700, but I think it's the same for 2019...

Btw, I blocket the ais on my grizz, and the header bearly glows now.
So I leve the machine as it is for now.

Did you know if the 2019 tranny setup differs from the one on the 708 beside the gear redution?
What ratio did the 2019 have stock?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20180821_170644_1545476815529.jpg
Views:	95
Size:	3.49 MB
ID:	77631   Click image for larger version

Name:	20180819_123820_1545476857207.jpg
Views:	93
Size:	3.90 MB
ID:	77633  
jparacing is offline  
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to jparacing For This Useful Post:
Pjniez (05-02-2019), rosscopeeko (02-22-2019)
Reply

  Lower Navigation
Go Back   Yamaha Grizzly ATV Forum > Grizzly Forums > Grizzly Tech Tips

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Help with a 2016 Grizzly 700 Build Clover13 Grizzly Accessories 17 05-26-2016 09:55 AM
POLARIS XP 850 ESP VS GRIZZLY 700 ESP terb Grizzly Challenges 79 02-26-2013 01:51 PM
1000mi Grizzly 700 review Junfan Grizzly Talk 21 12-16-2012 02:38 PM
2008 Yamaha Grizzly 700 FI EPS - Worth The Praise, Or Just The Latest Craze? mcckm91 Grizzly Talk 3 04-15-2009 09:23 AM

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome