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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everybody -

Just got an '07 700 Grizzly -

Runs fine, but has a constant check engine light on when running. When I turn off with the engine with the LH switch , it shows code 12, which is the Crank Position Sensor.
When I turn the key on, but not starting the quad, it this is showing 12 on the display and a fast blinking engine light?
Sensor checks out with a meter checking ohms.
I've checked,cleaned,greased every connector?!
Brand new battery.

Not sure if anybody has any input, but I'm stumped.
 

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Just wanna ride!!
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Welcome to GC. Check the thread PA linked. A service manual may also be helpful. An electronic version can be had on tradebit.com for cheap. Then you can either reference it on a computer or print it which is what I did.
 

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Welcome to GC from Maine. These guys will help you out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the link, but I do have the service manual and all the tests that I think of have been done.
Code 12 should be a "no start" condition, but it starts and runs fine.

I'm thinking it could be a faulty ECM or some other interference causing this, just hoping someone has been down this path before and can share some insight.

The Crank Sensor shares an common wire that is output by the ECM.
The TPS, Air Temp, ect share the same black/blue wire. I'm curious as to what the output voltage should be, but there is no mention of this in the manual.
- If the output voltage from the ECM is not correct, I would expect to see more fault codes?

I someone has had this issue and replaced the crank sensor/stator and had positive results I would love to know. I get the feeling that if I went this direction I would still have the code.
 

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Grizzled
2014 Yamaha Grizzly 700 EPS
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Curious why you changed the battery?

When your bike is running, what is the idle voltage measured at the battery? What is the measured voltage when given mid-throttle at the battery?

I'm assuming you know this... but just in case, the 07/08 Grizzly 700 has an issue with burning out the stator from improper stator cooling. Stators usually burn out in the 10 o'clock position. Doesn't seem to affect all bikes but those bikes that are run a lot at idle or slow speed, think someone using it for only snow plowing, seem to be more susceptible to having the stator burn out. You can run the engine oil on the high side or just above the high hash mark on the dip stick. You can replace the stator cover with an upgraded cover, 09+ which has the oil cooling line for the stator.

I do have a thread here, buried somewhere but had issues with a code 12. That turned out to be my battery was bad and not holding the proper amps. All of it was started by way of a stator that burned out and I had to replace the stator/TPS assembly. I don't have time to look for that thread at the moment, but do a search for my name, tps, code 12, stator and it should eventually come up.
 
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Code 12 indicates something has happened not necessarily something that is happening. It may resets when then the engine starts.
Does it code 12 when using the key?
I'll add more when I return home.

Sent from my ME172V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the responses guys.

I replaced the battery thinking I would eliminate any possible issue there.
It is charging at 13.9-14.3 no matter what the rpm is and with or without the headlights on.
I didn't know about the updated stator cover - I'll have to look into it.

Key on, but without starting it, the check engine flashes rapidly and code 12 is on the dash.
- This is what makes me wonder about the signal voltage to the sensor. Low voltage in = low voltage out. I'm only reading about .05v on the shared Black/Blue ecm output wire that goes to the CPS,TPS,IAT,ect. I don't know if this is correct or not - there is no mention of this in the manual. A lot of times cars will have a 5 volt reference output feeding the sensors. Knowing the correct voltage would help greatly!
- Once started, the code 12 immediately goes away, but the check engine light stays on but stops flashing.

I'm not opposed to changing out the crank sensor if needed, just thinking there is another gremlin lurking around.

Frustrating thing is it runs great. I just don't trust it not to leave me stranded somewhere!
 

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Grizzled
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While trying to locate my thread about the bad battery and code 12 issues, I came across some other threads where a code 12was the problem. Might give you some additional ideas other than what has been brought up in this thread. I'm not sure why I'm having a hard time finding my thread but not sure how much it will help you anyway.

http://www.grizzlycentral.com/forum/grizzly-electrical-lighting/67929-2008-grizzly-700-code-12-a.html

http://www.grizzlycentral.com/forum/grizzly-electrical-lighting/64905-what-have-yall-found-fix-code-12-a.html

http://www.grizzlycentral.com/forum/grizzly-electrical-lighting/50164-code-12-a.html
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Interesting reading - Thanks!

Looks like in the last link you posted, that he replaced ECM and that was the only way the code 12 would disappear from the dash.

I also read that it takes 3 revolutions of trying to start before the code 12 should register? Weird.
 

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The code 12 is thrown when the start button is pushed three times and the engine does not rotate. Like if the taillight fuse is blown the Griz will not start in gear if you hit the start button 3 times the 12 will throw. Once whatever caused the 12 is fixed and the rig starts the 12 is cleared. There are other reasons for the 12 also.

With a 12 the engine light will be blinking but when started the 12 resets and the engine light stops blinking. If engine light stops blinking but stays on there is some other problem. You may find a code in the diag history. Whatever it is it must be something simple because you say the rig runs fine.

I ask if you turn the machine of with the key (not the kill switch) does it throw the 12? Maybe a faulty kill switch contact or wire.

For similar reasons consider testing or switch out the fuel system relay.

Something is sending a short pulse to the ECU that seems to be mimicking a no rpm.

Overhill contributed a wealth of knowledge about FI to this forum. He could have easily answered the voltage question.
Haven't heard from him for a longtime, sure hope all is well!
 
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Have you pulled the plug from the ecu & checked for any corrosion, then dielectric grease it, not a glance, a real nose about, is there any way to clear trouble codes via the pod? Harleys would throw a trouble code which had to be manually cleared or they would do what yours is doing, anything from a low battery slow turn over, engine kick back, a ton of stuff that wasn't a real problem & off went a trouble code, bike ran great. Bad earths are another bugbear that will help throw TC's, the computer uses millivolts from the sensors to make the fuel infection work, bad earths can throw them out making the computer "think" it has a problem & then there's residual static electricity build up in the ecu(I kid you not!) this little beauty would not allow the ecu to clear it's self of voltage after turning off the ignition, easy fix, take off earth & power strap from battery, take out main fuse & remove plug from ecu, theory was it took 1/2 hr to bleed off static build up through the earths, reality was it could take overnight, especially if there is a lot of static in the air, modern ecu's "should" not do this BUT.
Your problem might not be any of these as they were experienced on another system, but, there easy & won't cost ya.
 
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