100 hour maintenance

2646 Views 17 Replies 10 Participants Last post by RedRocket, 6 d ago

04lss

Discussion Starter · May 6, 2021

Hi all,

My 2014 grizzly is new to me, i bought it at 101 hours and it now has 105. I want to do a solid maintenance regiment on it, so that i know she is good for a while.
The manual has some specifics like spark plug and such, but it seems to be lacking specifics in other areas.

is there a specific coolant should i use if i am doing a full flush? Coming from the audi world, i get a bit paranoid about coolant types.

The manual mentions SAE80 for the diffs and gearbox, Would 80w90 GLI 4 work?

The plan is to:
Replace front, rear and Gearbox oil.
Run a bottle of techron through the fuel
grease anything that has a grease fitting
New spark plug
inspect the airfilter
Flush the coolant system.

Is there anything else i should be looking to do?

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

Blmpkn

· #2 · May 6, 2021

The transmission oil should be the motor oil. Use something wet clutch rated. I just use yamalube. Clean the oil screen if equipped.

80w90 will be fine for the front&rear ends.

Regular green coolant is fine.

Welcome to the world of yamaha. Much better than the world of anything including German engineering lol.

griz7

· #3 · May 6, 2021

That's a good start, check your wheel bearings and bushings, the rear knuckle bushings and pins also, brake pads, just a good once over on the things that you use often on the machine.

Ridgway81432

· #4 · May 7, 2021

The gear oil has a GL rating for shear protection, and a 4 or 5 number rating is OK....GL4 or better.
The engine oil cannot have friction modifiers or the wet clutch will slip, that's the MAOS rating required. I use Rotella dino.

04lss

Discussion Starter · #5 · May 7, 2021

I didnt think the CVT models had the wet clutch? Wouldnt the Gearbox be seperate from the engine like on polaris and can am?

Vincent

· #6 · May 7, 2021

04lss said:
I didnt think the CVT models had the wet clutch? Wouldnt the Gearbox be seperate from the engine like on polaris and can am?

Yamaha system have the belt under constant tension and utilize a centrifugal wet clutch for the stop and go, same as Suzuki atv. The Picture is of your Yamaha's wet clutch and drum assembly

The sub transmission is in the crank case literally along side your crankshaft. They share the same oil

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04lss

Discussion Starter · #7 · May 7, 2021

Vincent said:
Yamaha system have the belt under constant tension and utilize a centrifugal wet clutch for the stop and go, same as Suzuki atv.

The sub transmission is in the crank case literally along side your crankshaft. They share the same oil

I suppose that makes my Oil choice all the more important. Any suggestions on the best 10w 40 that works with the wet clutch?

04lss

Discussion Starter · #8 · May 7, 2021

Vincent said:
Yamaha system have the belt under constant tension and utilize a centrifugal wet clutch for the stop and go, same as Suzuki atv.

The sub transmission is in the crank case literally along side your crankshaft. They share the same oil

Wouldnt there also be a gearbox on the other side of the belt that requires oil? I imagine there has to be something mechanical converting from the belt to the driveshafts.

Vincent

· #9 · May 7, 2021 (Edited)

04lss said:
Wouldnt there also be a gearbox on the other side of the belt that requires oil? I imagine there has to be something mechanical converting from the belt to the driveshafts.

As already mentioned

The secondary drive shaft and sub transmission share the same casing as your crank case and share the same oil

These are not Can Am's, there is NO separate sub transmission gear box.

Vincent

· #10 · May 7, 2021

I use Yamaha full synthetic

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CanadianKodiak700

· #11 · May 7, 2021

04lss said:
I suppose that makes my Oil choice all the more important. Any suggestions on the best 10w 40 that works with the wet clutch?

Shell Rotella T6 5w40 is what most of us use. Or yamalube silver bottle is synthetic blend, gold bottle is full synthetic.
Pair it with either a yamaha filter or a top of the line wix filter

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

Reactions: 1

04lss

Discussion Starter · #12 · May 7, 2021

Vincent said:
As already mentioned

The secondary drive shaft and sub transmission share the same casing as your crank case and share the same oil

These are not Can Am's, there is NO separate sub transmission gear box.

Ah sorry, i guess it didnt click for me what that meant. I was thinking you were referring to the clutch assembly.

My absolute biggest complaint with sxs is belt wear and strain. Its really comforting to know that wont be nearly as much of an issue with this machine.

Vincent

· #13 · May 7, 2021

04lss said:
Ah sorry, i guess it didnt click for me what that meant. I was thinking you were referring to the clutch assembly.

My absolute biggest complaint with sxs is belt wear and strain. Its really comforting to know that wont be nearly as much of an issue with this machine.

Yamaha belts last forever. Matter of fact they come with a 10 year warranty

10-Year-Belt Warranty

www.yamahamotorsports.com

Ridgway81432

· #14 · May 7, 2021

04lss said:
I didnt think the CVT models had the wet clutch? Wouldnt the Gearbox be seperate from the engine like on polaris and can am?

The weak points of the popo fly weight system are one reason we ride Yamaha. Have you seen the Yamaha video on you tube of how the Yamaha system works?

MNDirtRider

· #15 · May 7, 2021

@04lss - You're off to a great start! One thing that has been mentioned is greasing the knuckles. These fittings are a little hard to get a grease gun on the zerk. Also, getting them to take grease can also be a challenge as the tolerances in the bushings are very tight. Don't get discouraged and be diligent about greasing them so they last. Congrats on your new ride.

seedcleaner

· #16 · May 14, 2021

I like your proactive approach to maintenance, and I know how getting a new to me machine can be fun at first and maintenance becomes a priority. Having said that, 100 hours is pretty minimal, and depending upon how it was used before you, most of what you mention is not likely to need any attention. If you are aware of how it was used before you, I would not worry too much about some of what you mention, like spark plug or coolant.

I personally like synthetic fluids, such as amsoil, chevron, etc.... I would recommend a synthetic oil in engine and both differentials. Consider the air filter as something worth looking at once, so you have peace of mind it is doing what it should. Belt drive and "transmission" is really nothing that needs looked at.

chip.byrne

· #17 · 6 d ago

seedcleaner said:
I like your proactive approach to maintenance, and I know how getting a new to me machine can be fun at first and maintenance becomes a priority. Having said that, 100 hours is pretty minimal, and depending upon how it was used before you, most of what you mention is not likely to need any attention. If you are aware of how it was used before you, I would not worry too much about some of what you mention, like spark plug or coolant.

I personally like synthetic fluids, such as amsoil, chevron, etc.... I would recommend a synthetic oil in engine and both differentials. Consider the air filter as something worth looking at once, so you have peace of mind it is doing what it should. Belt drive and "transmission" is really nothing that needs looked at.

Does anybody have a part number for the WIX filter? Thank you.

RedRocket

· #18 · 6 d ago

chip.byrne said:
Does anybody have a part number for the WIX filter? Thank you.

New Yamaha Oil Filter, Beware

We have a FAQ thread in the Grizzly Talk forum where the above thread is listed.

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