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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm not from the US to begin, so I trying to whrite as good as I can.

I have a Kodiak 700 eps 2018 with ehs tuner, full flow exhaust and soon the ehs uni airbox, iron baltic plastic skidplate kit, otherwise it's a stock bike I use for plove and trailriding.

I also ordered the 18g oem grizzly weights from ehs when I ordered the airbox, but I stand little confused if the 18g weights will be to mutch for the kodiak?
Will the older 20g (21g) grizzly weights suit the kodiak better as it's pretty mutch an older grizzly size wise?
Or did the new 18g weights suit the 708 engine better caracterwise?
I may go for the 26" tires when the oem setup is beten up.

I'm new to atv's and cvt transmissions, but have own and built bike's my hole life.
After 30 years of mx/enduro riding, the 30g clutch weight's dosent seems so exited even for a beginner of atv's as the rear end is plated like it's on track's.

Thank's for inputs!

// JPA
 

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The 18's will be what you want.
 

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The higher the mass of the roller weight the lower your cruising rpm will be and the faster you will upshift.
The 30s will be boring, the 20s would work nice, the 18s will be more exciting.
If you go to light you’ll rev to high and it will be annoying and waste gas.
I have 18’s in my grizzly with 26” bighorn tires.
I ran 18s in my 2009 grizzly 700 with
27” tires. The 18s let me achieve 105kmh with the larger tires with 20gram weights I could only hit 96kmh.


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank's for the replyes.
I'm only affriad of that the 18g weights may would be to light for the 25" wheels and trailriding.
It would be nice to find a video of a kodiak with 18g weight's and hear how low it's geared, and if it to on and off.

Dosent any one siting on the rpm numbers for the different weight's?
 

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Because cvt’s are so sensitive to change.
A video of the rpm for different weights would be super hard to make.
I have a tiny rpm gauge and I’ll try to make note of changes.
Just breathing on the throttle on a trail doing 20 mph results in a 2-500 rpm change. It’s barely audible and given the up and down bounce and rocking side to side of a trail ride, the sound changes anyway, it hard to feel or hear any real change.
The difference between 20 mph and 22 is a near impossible to hold steady on a trail you’ll try but the speedo changes from 18-25 as you bump along. This gives 2-500 rpm changes and you don’t know if it’s the speed, your thumb, or the weights.
Sure, an overall average of the day would be measurable and that’s where you’d likely notice.. but a snapshot of it is hard to achieve.
Maybe on a dyno you could really see it.


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I was just thinking of a video from an overall ride with the 18g weights.

I have lissened to some 2016 grizzly vids on the youtube, and they sounded quite low geared but fine.

I trying to find out how mutch difference the 26" tires compaired to the 25" will make?

The reson I got order the 18g weights from begining, is that I thinked they may suit the powerband of the 708 better, then the 20g that was in the 686 egine.
But after some reading about the cvt system it may work different the my manual transmission brain do =)

I'm not a mudrider, just trails/freeride and some gravelroads.
 

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The difference between 18 or 20 is not that huge. You are doing the same thing as me before I tried all this weight and shim stuff. “Over thinking it”.
I would try the 18’s if you are more of a free spirit rider that likes a the occasional wheelie over a trail bump or a bit of power sliding... however, if you’re more of a casual rider that never hammers on the throttle hoping to carry the front end over that water hole, the 20’s will suit you just fine.



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That's exactly what I was thinking and @Madkawi750 is exactly right... Don't overthink this. Both 18 & 20 are a drastic change from the stock Kodiak 30 gr weights and relatively not that different from each other compared to the overall change from stock. Either will not give you any problems whatsoever.

And realistically your stock 25" tires are more like 24". So going up to true 26" is only an 8% change in overall gear ratio. Go with true 26 inchers... You won't regret it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Big thank's for your time guys!

I'm fully aware of that I'm overthinking this, I just whant the machine to pull as hard as it could thrue the powerband, without reving like h... when do some shorter transport.

I going to put in the 18g rollers when it's time for the first service as I dont have any tool to hold the crank yet (dont know the name in english).

The cvt area is completly new to me, even if I have built bike's and engines for many years.

Btw, even if I'm completly green on cvt's and atv's, I feelt direct that the oem setup suck's .., it's like shortshifting a mx engine all day =)
 
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