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Discussion Starter #21
Glad to hear your making headway make you feel all warm and fuzzy inside Haha .
Backtabush-
The image that you posted of the frayed wires.....is that from a Grizzly? If so is it the area of the harness where the stator / reg/rec / and cdi connectors all tie into the main harness? I'll feel warmer and fuzzier once I get this puppy all squared away. The problem is not so much figuring it out but not having enough free time. Between work and other family/life commitments and maybe a few hours sleep here or there I just can't spend the time that I need to, to just get things done. The owner of this Grizzly is retired but I'm not retired so time is tight. I like helping others so I need to win the lottery so I can retire instantly and step up the charity repair work......a coffee and a sandwich and I'm happy!
 

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Hi that's my 700fi and that wear was under the air intake to the CVT next to the display the other shot was the TPS wires but i had plenty more around the ECU
 

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Yes i know were your coming from seem like time on fast forward all you can do is check for places of were flex happens or rub or maybe crimped connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Another update...… Got the carb boot in the mail so I cleaned the pilot circuit and got the carb back together and reattached. Left the airbox off so I have more room to get to the electrical components and main harness. This thing has me stumped only because I don't have a "compare to known good unit" to compare it to. I retraced my steps today just to make sure I wasn't missing anything obvious. I have a very weak spark using the electric start or pull start....no difference. Per the manual the spark on this thing should be able to jump a 1/4" gap, it barely jumps the plug gap when I have the cap back on and the plug in the cap. The kill switch checks out and works fine as does the main key switch. The ignition coil primary and secondary check out fine and the plug cap is fine and a new spark plug for good luck. The battery is at 13 volts and will drop to 11 volts when pressing the start button but completely recovers when letting off of the button. The pulse / pick up coil is at 472 ohms, spec is 459 - 561. The source coil is at 162 ohms, that is low, spec is 270 - 330. Could that be the issue here?????? I have lower then spec resistance but I also don't have a short to ground With my meter leads connected to the brown and green wire while thumbing the electric start button I get 34 volts ac. This is where the "compare to know good unit" comes into play.....if I had one! The stator coil (three white wires) for charging all read 1.1 ohms and spec is .7 - .86 and also no shorts to ground there either. The red and white and the brown and green wires go right into the CDI unit and the orange comes out of the CDI unit and goes to the coil primary. What signal voltage number from the CDI should I get at the orange wire at the coil? I slid the connector up a bit so I could get my meter lead on there while cranking and I don't see any voltage there but I must be getting something there as there is that weak spark on the secondary (plug wire). At this point I am thinking the source coil is bad because of the low resistance reading or the CDI unit itself has not completely failed but is failing. I have pulled many of the connectors apart and inspected them and contact cleaned them and blew them out. I have not found any sections of the harness rubbed through or visibly kinked or cut. Now I have to ask the owner of this thing to see how much money he wants to throw at it. CDI boxes are not cheap and stators are a bit less if I go with a cheaper one. I'm doing this as a favor so labor is free for him and just loss of time and hair for me! Does anyone else have any other ideas? Should I just pull the stator cover off and do a visual inspection, maybe that will reveal something????? Thanks again in advance for your help.
 

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Hi i feel your pain you need someone with your machine that willing to test there unit and report i would but mines a different animal nothing the same surely there others out there that can help.
All ohms change with time slowly go higher as the wire structure changes so .86 to 1.1 ohms is bugger all you would need to be in the Ks but there would be other out there more knowledgeable than me.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I'm getting just under 2 volts dc to the orange wire at the coil when the signal is sent to the coil and that is with the electric start or using the pull start. What should that voltage be? I would think it should be 12 volts dc.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I checked continuity of the orange wire from the CDI box connector to the coil and the wire is good. I pulled on it and moved the harness around to see if I could get it to go to an open circuit but it remained good. See the attached image of the CDI box back side. Is this normal for the CDI boxes on the Grizzly to look like this? Every Japanese sportbike that I have owned including Yamaha's have nice smooth sealed backsides on their CDI boxes. Is this normal or did it start to cook itself from the inside out?
TOSH3341.JPG
 

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Your right every one i have seen is smooth due to i was a liquid when it was made did you check the voltage into the cdi r/b wire if its 12v than i would say cdi problem only other thing i can think of maybe rev limiter problem maybe try to nut out which wire is the limiter wire and unplug it cut it what ever when i get a chance i will try to find it remember where on different time zones but will look when i can.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I have not checked the voltage to that r/b wire yet but I will do that soon! Thanks! My neighbor has said he is not in a rush and I told him I don't want to waste his money and throw parts at it for nothing but it is looking more and more like it is the CDI box......the most expensive part of course!
 

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Looking at the wiring dia and reading the trouble shooting it list in STARTING FAILURE/HARD STARTING brake light switch you wonder WTF but it is plugged into the CDI not sure why or what part it plays but they do fail easy must be some sort of safety thing cant hurt to test singe white wire other to look at would be speed sensor black/yellow it could match speed to rev to calculate rev limiter
other things to check
Pickup coil resistance/color 459 ~ 561 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)/
White/Red – White/Green
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Rotor rotation direction sensing coil resistance/ This one maybe to sense if motor starts backwards to stop it from running hard to understand when there no theory to read that explains how all these part interact but need to test it.
color
0.063 ~ 0.077 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)/
Red – White/Blue
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Discussion Starter #32
My pick up is at 472 so that is a good reading. I have the brake switch out of the lever now and need to check it to be sure. My source coil is low at 162. I'll be digging into it again soon! Is till think it may be a CDI box failure. Thanks for all your input!
 

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Please
I'm getting just under 2 volts dc to the orange wire at the coil when the signal is sent to the coil and that is with the electric start or using the pull start. What should that voltage be? I would think it should be 12 volts dc.
post what you find out because I’m having the same problem with my 600. has weak spark and am only getting just under 2v on the orange wire leading to the ignition coil. I’m leading towards cdi box but want to be sure
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I will let you know and you let me know if you find something. I had to a take a little break from working on it as i got busy at work. I'm leaning towards the CDI box also. Do you know anyone in your area that has a good box off of their machine that you could try to verify on your machine? I don't have anyone out my way.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
The reason I am thinking the CDI box is that other than a few readings that are slightly out of spec. everything else has checked out okay. I do need to check the r/b wire into the CDI box for 12 volts into the box. And like I said, electric start or pull start there is no difference. Unless my pick coil is bad even though I do have good resistance readings? I have not pulled the left engine cover to look at the stator and pickup. These Yamaha atv's seem to have many electrical gremlins :(
 
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