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Hey guys, first time here. Ive just recently got into the quad scene and picked up a 2005 Bruin 350, 2 years ago. The thing was barely used and in mint condition, and walked away with it for $1500! The guy bought it, rode it a couple times, moved to texas and took it with him. Removed all the plastic and wrapped them in sheets so they didn't get scratched during the move. Never put it back together. Moved back to Ohio and that is where I got it, plastic still wrapped in sheets, tires still had the nubs on them. I changed all the fluids, put a new battery in it and bang! Fired right up.


Anyway, I put a winch and warn plow on it (got the warn plow for $40 on craigslist). Has been running flawlessly up until the other day. We got some snow here the other day in PA, so I was going to plow. I got home from work, fired the quad up so it could warm up and went inside to change. Came out and the oil temp light was on. I turned the quad off, checked the oil, full and clean. I turned the key back on and it instantly fired back up (starter was running constantly when the key and kill switch was on). So I shut it off and figured the starter solenoid crapped out so I ordered a new one (2 to be exact in case I got a bad aftermarket one), also figured that the oil light was on because it comes on when you are running the starter and since it was always running that was why. I swapped the solenoid yesterday, turned the key on and same exact thing. So now I figured the solenoid isn't bad. So I started digging into the starter button and got that all apart, tested both sides of the starter button contacts, both were showing ground all the time, so I figured the switch went bad. So as a test I snipped the ground wire coming into the button, tested it again and the out going wire was still grounding out. So that leads me to believe that the signal wire is grounding out somewhere between the push button and the solenoid. I haven't really rode the quad at all over the past year except for a few times around the yard with the kids. So to get me up and running I ran a new wire from the out going terminal on the push button to that same wire on the solenoid plug, fixed it! But my oil temp light is still on all the time, so im thinking whatever is grounding out the switch wire is also grounding out the oil light leaving it on all the time.


So after all of that I just pulled the bulb for the immediate time being. Does anyone have any thoughts other than ripping the entire thing apart looking for any smashed wires or anything. Could it just be the computer box?


Thanks in advance guys!


Jason
 

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The thing that comes to mind is a pinched wire from when the plastics went on finally wore thru causing an earth, but something with the starter continuing to run doesn't add up, most start buttons supply 12v to the solenoid to activate the starter motor, there is also a relay that if it corrodes can cause the starter to stay on, if the start button is earthed it should have blown a fuse, very odd.
When did the winch go on? Recheck around it for problems.
Most oil pressure switch's are earth out switch's, locate the oil switch & disconnect the wiring, if it goes out the switch may be faulty.
 

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Thanks for getting back to me.


The winch went on when I first got it about two years ago. That has been running fine. Ill have to find the oil temp sensor and check it out. I did take the plastic off that covers the gas tank so I could see some of the area, and nothing that I could immediately see looked smashed or rubbed through.


I have a led light bar on the front too. When I first started messing with everything I did disconnect all extra stuff from the battery so it was just the factory wiring coming off the battery.
 

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For a problem like yours you really need a wiring diagram so you can follow the wires to search whether a wire has 12v or not or gets 12v. after a button is pushed. The start button, with ign. on & kill swt. on will have 12v going to one side of it, the other wire out, going to the solenoid will not, until it is pressed & a contact is made then 12v flows to to solenoid, this needs to be checked for 12v without snipping wires :surprise:
The oil swt. works by a spring loaded plunger inside touching earth(ground) when the engine is off, creating a circuit for the oil light to stay on, when the starter is turning the motor over the oil pump won't generate enough pressure to lift the plunger off it's earth position, so the light stays on, an atv that's been sitting around can also get corrosion in the wiring plugs internally & cause all sorts of oddball problems, not to mention bad earths on the frame, all bolts, screws & connecters that earth out the system to the frame have to removed, wire brushed & tightened up, there have been some threads lately on it, check 'em out.
 
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