[Fantic212]

Hi. Looking for help here with my 2011 Grizzly 550 that has only done 135 hours from new. It has been playing up as sometimes it will tick over perfect, start it 10 mins later and it wont tick over. Switch off try again, still wont. Leave it 10 mins, it might behave it might not etc. On Saturday I fitted a brand new plug and old one was black and sooty. Fired up and ticked over lovely with new plug. Rode it for 10 mins, no problem. Put it away then next day, started it but yet again would not tick over. Sometimes it will just tick over, but I mean just. Then you could go to it 5 mins later and it will. It's driving me crazy. Any ideas please? If you just press the thumb throttle a tiny bit it will tick over. Ride it down the road and it goes like stink, so appears to be running just fine.

 

[Ridgway81432]

Welcome from Colorado.
I think you need a full tune-up, including the recommended valve check and adjustment if needed, and possibly a new battery. Have the current battery load tested to know for sure.

 

[Fantic212]

Thank you for your swift reply. Most appreciated. I am going to check the battery and or get another one as that is a quick cheap easy thing to eliminate. Then valve check as I bet that hasn't been from new so will be due and again is a cheap item to tick off the list. I will keep you posted on progress. Best regards Adam

 

[Fantic212]

Update: I checked the battery this morning and over here in the UK it is zero degrees centigrade which is 17 degrees fahrenheit. The battery voltage was 12.49V and after starting the quad ( it wouldn't tick over ) it was 14.36V at a nice steady positive throttle. Once the quad warmed up a bit it would just tick over for like 10 seconds and the voltage dropped to 12.76V. I then went into the diagnostic mode with the fuel pump electric socket still attaced and checked the following: D01 Throttle angle - At tick over it is 17 at fll throttle it is 100. D03 Presure difference - The values changed when I cranked the engine over. D05 Intake Air Temp - 17 degrees F. D06 Coolant Temp - 30 degrees F (I had run it for a bit so it expected it to be warmer than 17 degrees). D07 Vehicle Speed - I didn't test. D08 Lean Angle Sensor - 4!!!! I belive Overturned is between 3.7 and 4.4 yet my quad is on flat level ground. D09 Fuel System Voltage - 11.4v Lower than what I was getting per my multi meter at the battery!!! D21 Neutral Switch - Works perfect. D60 EEPROM fault code history - 00 (No history, perfect). D61 Malfunction history code display - I get code 12, 37, 42 & 46 Arrrhhhhh!!! What are these codes? I tried to clear them but couldn't but then I think to clear them you have to have the fuel pump plug disconeccted. Any help will be greatly received.

 

[Ridgway81432]

Download a f.s.m. from our member here;

Home - 501 Parts.com Yamaha 4wd System Parts and Repair

Welcome to 501Parts! Home of the Grabber Diff-Lock Kit! Here you will find all the parts and advice needed to fix any and all problems with your Yamaha and Yamaha Clone 4wd system. …

www.501parts.com

to identify the codes you have showing.

 

[RedRocket]

Def download your own copy of the Service Manual. All the test procedures are in there along with the error codes, but here is a screen shot of the error codes for reference. I know from experience a bad battery can cause an error code 12 because the signal received was way too low to register. You should clean and reconnect ALL battery terminals, chassis ground, solenoid terminals, starter terminal. Have your battery load tested, checking voltage is not a valid test to know if your battery can hold the proper amps.

 

[Fantic212]

Thank ever so much Ridgway81432 and Redrocket for your advice. Way more than im getting from the "Yamaha Approved" repair dealers over here in the UK. I will download a copy of the factory service manual for sure. It's definatly looking likely to be something electrical. I have ordered an ANCEL BA101 battery load tester from Amazon that should be here tomorrow. Thank you for the code list although code 37 isn't on the list but may be it will be in the F.S.M? Thank you again and I will post back an update again soon. Regards Adam

 

[Ridgway81432]

The 14+ volts when running then dropping is like the battery is pulling it down. In this country the battery should be at of just over 13 volts when the key is turned on, then go higher with the stator charging.

 

[RedRocket]

That was from an older FSM I had and just updated the screen shots to the 2014 FSM I have.

 

[Fantic212]

I think I might have the same battery size on one of my Triumph motorcycles so might try that as a fix to see if it is just the battery. From your new screen shot list of error 37, what is the ISC valve?

 

[RedRocket]

I had to look that up, it is the idle speed control which I believe is on the throttle body. Not easy to search through the document because ISC comes up 251 times, "discussion", "disc", etc.. I would follow the FSM troubleshooting for your battery related items first and then see where that leaves you.

 

[Fantic212]

So the latest update to my issue. I have this morning fitted a brand new Yuassa YBX20HL-BS battery after putting that on an optimiser over night. I disconnected the fuel pump plug and cleared the history of the fault codes. Started it up but I still need to just touch the throttle. While the battery was out I did check as many electrical connections as possible and put electrical grease on the terminals. So next step is to have the valve adjustment done and then maybe then adjust the tick over position on the throttle body so tick over is 1600 rpm. I did re-check to see if any of the codes came back but they didn't. So guess they might be very old codes that previous owner hadn't cleared. Should of cleared them first before swapping battery over.

 

[reogem]

Hard for me to answer from the bush.
Clear all the codes and start over.

Adjust the the throttle angle up to 18 or 19.

Air temp reading of -17 is that correct? Maybe check it again.
Should be at the ambient temperature


Sent from my SM-S327VL using Tapatalk

 

[Fantic212]

Hard for me to answer from the bush.
Clear all the codes and start over.

Adjust the the throttle angle up to 18 or 19.

Air temp reading of -17 is that correct? Maybe check it again.
Should be at the ambient temperature


Sent from my SM-S327VL using Tapatalk

Hi. Air temp was "17" the other day which I believe is in fahrenheit and that was the temp over here in England. Thanks for your help from as far away as the bush tho. Cheers.

 

[Cash]

Adjust the the throttle angle up to 18 or 19.

I am also looking for a fault; my opening angle setting is 16 how can we switch ?
Is it a mechanical or an electrical intervention?

 

[Fantic212]

I am also looking for a fault; my opening angle setting is 16 how can we switch ?
Is it a mechanical or an electrical intervention?

It's mechanical. You have to loosen the two screws on the throttle position sensor and rotate it slightly while reading the pod display.

 

[Fantic212]

So to update you all I managed to fix it today. I started to gain access to the idle control valve as I bought some spray cleaner to clean it when by luck I spotted a broken wire going to the idle control valve. Hooray!!! So after getting the pin out of the plug there was just enough meat on the wire to solder another wire to it using those lovely inline wire joiners that you heat up with the soilder already in the middle of it. Here is a few photos of the issue a d the fix. Thank you to all that helped me fix it. It was doing my head in but a break in a wire was why sometimes it ticked over and sometimes it didn't.

 

[Cash]

Well done good job