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Hey Guys, I just bought a new 700eps, I have HMF swamp series, ITP ss108 wheels and 26 inch zilla tires, hadd the dealer install warn 3000lb xt winch yesterday, now when you get it warmed up and let it idle, it stalls, starts right back up and runs fine, but keeps stalling after a couple minutes of idle, acts like it someone turned the key off, doesnt do it all the time, but frequent enought to be annoying, any ideas? I have 10 miles on the machine, have heard the Grizz does this for a bit until its broke in.
 

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Do you have a fuel programmer? If not I'd bet thats your problem.
 

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Do you have a fuel programmer? If not I'd bet thats your problem.
:rocker:X2, you are probably running lean with that exhaust without a properly adjusted fuel programmer.
 

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Do you have a fuel programmer? If not I'd bet thats your problem.
X3, the 700s and 550s like to be really rich at idle, your probably too lean with that exhaust.
 

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don't buy the HMF programmer they don't work. I also don't think that adding just a slip on on without any intake mode would cause this stalling.

You may need a programmer get the one that is at ehs It has much better results.
 

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If WUN were here, he would tell you to change your spark plug first.
 

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the newer grizz run of a idle control circuit that will try to keep the rpm and a set point the throttle blade will be closed off almost completly. you can either have dealer raise set rpm limit or find value in pod or you can raise idle set screw which will allow more air to bypass idle control valve but then the ecu will try to offset fuel mixture to bring rpm's back down.

imo they idle to low from factory

on most other efi's like mine the green blue mode is locked out which is generally what you could use to try and offset this issue usually by moving the green blue circuit to a lower position the extra fuel compensation will come on at a earlier rpm but you also need air as well either through iac valve or staright throw throttle plate
 
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the newer grizz run of a idle control circuit that will try to keep the rpm and a set point the throttle blade will be closed off almost completly. you can either have dealer raise set rpm limit or find value in pod or you can raise idle set screw which will allow more air to bypass idle control valve but then the ecu will try to offset fuel mixture to bring rpm's back down.

imo they idle to low from factory

on most other efi's like mine the green blue mode is locked out which is generally what you could use to try and offset this issue usually by moving the green blue circuit to a lower position the extra fuel compensation will come on at a earlier rpm but you also need air as well either through iac valve or staright throw throttle plate
I started having this issue too Eric. After installing my hmf, bullet box, and snorkel savers. It was fine for a couple days and then the last day of my ride last weekend it started dying at idle sometimes. I tried messing around with my green setting on the bullet box which did not help. You think i should lower the green blue value?
 
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the newer grizz run of a idle control circuit that will try to keep the rpm and a set point the throttle blade will be closed off almost completly. you can either have dealer raise set rpm limit or find value in pod or you can raise idle set screw which will allow more air to bypass idle control valve but then the ecu will try to offset fuel mixture to bring rpm's back down.

imo they idle to low from factory

on most other efi's like mine the green blue mode is locked out which is generally what you could use to try and offset this issue usually by moving the green blue circuit to a lower position the extra fuel compensation will come on at a earlier rpm but you also need air as well either through iac valve or staright throw throttle plate
I started having this issue too Eric. After installing my hmf, bullet box, and snorkel savers. It was fine for a couple days of riding and then the last day of my ride last weekend it started dying at idle sometimes. I tried messing around with my green setting on the bullet box which did not help. You think i should lower the green blue value?

BTW, my snorkel savers are clean and there was no dust on the ride so i dont think a dirty airfilter or snorkel savers is the problem.
 

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you can try to lower the green blue it will help add the fuel earlier but the reason it dies is it needs more air. I just open the throttle stop to allow more air in im sure dealer and manual will tell you to not do that but as long as you are only moving it slightly its fine.

whats happening by opening it up is your moving the tps calibration so basically the ecu will think your at 2% throttle when its a 0% nothing really effects anything there is not much change in duty cycle on the inj or ignition timing with a 2% change and that small generally doesnt effect idle air circuit either just rasies rpm up about 100-150rpm which will help cure the stalling issue
 
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Thanks for the response Eric. How would i go about opening the throttle stop?
 

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look where throttle cable goes into tb there is a access panel with 3 allen head screw you can take it off if you want to see what it looks like but there is a screw and a nut on bottom side all it is, is a postive stop that sets where how far the throttle will close the further you turn it in the less it closes.

lossen nut with bike running slowly turn it in until the idle raises slightly if idle is to high its hard to enage drive rev etc so you only want to raise it a little generally idle is around 1400-1500 rpm setting it to 1600-1650 rpm is ideal
 

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look where throttle cable goes into tb there is a access panel with 3 allen head screw you can take it off if you want to see what it looks like but there is a screw and a nut on bottom side all it is, is a postive stop that sets where how far the throttle will close the further you turn it in the less it closes.

lossen nut with bike running slowly turn it in until the idle raises slightly if idle is to high its hard to enage drive rev etc so you only want to raise it a little generally idle is around 1400-1500 rpm setting it to 1600-1650 rpm is ideal
Do you have any pictures by chance to help explaining this problem ? I have a 14’ grizzly 700FI EPS and when it’s cold it stall on idle .. I was adjusting a screw under the air box next to the TB but I’m about confused now with all that’s forms and info if I’m doing it right . Also I read in the service manual that the idle speed should be between 1550-1650 rpm factory?
 
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