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My bike would normally start up fine but while idling for a minute or so would cut off as if I hit the kill switch. I have replaced the spark plug and battery but now it will stat and cut off after a few seconds of idling and if I smash the throttle it Will make a put noise and stall but if I ease into the throttle it will rev just fine then once it's at idle again it will die. Also I can smell fuel while this is happening. Please help
 

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Hey...Killerbee...Welcome to GC from Wisconsin...Make yourself a signature with details about what machine you are working on.

In the meantime what machine are you working on? Maybe a little history of the machine.
Maybe a plugged vent, try running the Griz with the fuel cap loose.
How old is the fuel maybe check it for water.
Air filter clean?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's a 2013 Yamaha grizzly 700, fuel is new, air filter is clean, just tried it with the fuel cap lose and no luck. It seems like it's not getting enough fuel to it.
 

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Check Throttle Position Sensor resistance.
Check Crank Position Sensor resistance.
Check fuel pressure.

Compare those numbers to the service manual. If you don't have a service manual, download one at trade it.com for less than $20.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Check Throttle Position Sensor resistance.
Check Crank Position Sensor resistance.
Check fuel pressure.

Compare those numbers to the service manual. If you don't have a service manual, download one at trade it.com for less than $20.


It appears to be the crank shaft position sensor. Checked the resistance and there was none. Is replacing that a job I would be able to successfully do on my own? How much does that usually run if someone were to do it for me?
 

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It appears to be the crank shaft position sensor. Checked the resistance and there was none. Is replacing that a job I would be able to successfully do on my own? How much does that usually run if someone were to do it for me?
Replacing the crank position sensor is not a big job. If you have mechanic skills, then you can do it. But get yourself a service manual before starting the work. It's less than $20.

Additionally, are you getting any codes on the indicator cluster? Usually a bad Crank Position Sensor will give code 12.
 

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It appears to be the crank shaft position sensor. Checked the resistance and there was none. Is replacing that a job I would be able to successfully do on my own? How much does that usually run if someone were to do it for me?
Replacing the crank position sensor is not a big job. If you have mechanic skills, then you can do it. But get yourself a service manual before starting the work. It's less than $20.

Additionally, are you getting any codes on the indicator cluster? Usually a bad Crank Position Sensor will give code 12.
I found one for free online that I downloaded. Also, after going over everything again I did get a resistance reading on the crank shaft position sensor. The manual says between 459-561 at 68°F but the reading I was getting was around 1200 but it was also about 80° outside so I don't know if that would make that much of a difference.

No I haven't gotten a 12 code unless I disconnect the sensor in which the bike won't start at all which makes me a little more hesitant to say it's that sensor because the bike will turn over and start but I dies at idle or if you smash the throttle. Like it take a big gulp of air then quits and at idle it just kinda puts and dies
 

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I found one for free online that I downloaded. Also, after going over everything again I did get a resistance reading on the crank shaft position sensor. The manual says between 459-561 at 68°F but the reading I was getting was around 1200 but it was also about 80° outside so I don't know if that would make that much of a difference.

No I haven't gotten a 12 code unless I disconnect the sensor in which the bike won't start at all which makes me a little more hesitant to say it's that sensor because the bike will turn over and start but I dies at idle or if you smash the throttle. Like it take a big gulp of air then quits and at idle it just kinda puts and dies
1200 ohms is way outside the limits, no matter the temperature. Whether it is the exact issue or not, that CPS should be replaced. It'll never run right on that sensor.
 

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Hey guys. Ive got a 2013 700 grizz. Started having the same problem yesterday. I bought it new in 2014 only has 868 miles on it. Took her out for a quick ride yesterday got on the throttle for about 4 seconds and it kind of backfired and died. Now its running like its not getting fuel.
 

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You should checking all of the wires and connection to the TPS.
Sporadic running may indicate something other than a failed TPS.

No codes ? No 12,15 or 16?

In diagnostic mode does the TPS register somewhere between 17 and 99?
Do you have between .63-.73 volts at the TPS?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I found one for free online that I downloaded. Also, after going over everything again I did get a resistance reading on the crank shaft position sensor. The manual says between 459-561 at 68°F but the reading I was getting was around 1200 but it was also about 80° outside so I don't know if that would make that much of a difference.

No I haven't gotten a 12 code unless I disconnect the sensor in which the bike won't start at all which makes me a little more hesitant to say it's that sensor because the bike will turn over and start but I dies at idle or if you smash the throttle. Like it take a big gulp of air then quits and at idle it just kinda puts and dies
1200 ohms is way outside the limits, no matter the temperature. Whether it is the exact issue or not, that CPS should be replaced. It'll never run right on that sensor.
W elp, I went and bought my own multimeter and checked the resistance. It's perfectly in range. I'm new to all this so it's trial and error for me. So as of now the throttle position is reading fine as well as the crank position. Also installed a new fuel pump, spark plug and battery. Only thing I haven't checked is the fuel injector which I'm about to do. Other than that I'm lost.
 

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You should checking all of the wires and connection to the TPS.
Sporadic running may indicate something other than a failed TPS.

No codes ? No 12,15 or 16?

In diagnostic mode does the TPS register somewhere between 17 and 99?
Do you have between .63-.73 volts at the TPS?
Correct, no codes, tps registers fine in diagnostic mode perfectly in range. I do not know how to check voltage tho, I'll have to look that up.
 

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Check your valve adjustment, if it's not right it could cause the problem.
Check for air leaks in the inlet manifold & around the throttle body.
Check all the sensor plugs going into the throttle body for dodgy pins, re-plug with some dielectric grease(won't hurt)
Check plug lead for rub marks, it might be shorting out.
Was spark plug gap checked?
Is fuel line from tank to throttle body squashed against anything?
Was any service work done previous to problem starting or work done to it?
Has it been swimming or high pressure washed?
Battery terminals tight & good contact at terminals?
Sometimes the oddest things can cause a problem, all a game of eliminating all potential causes. :smile2:
 

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........
In diagnostic mode does the TPS register somewhere between 17 and 99?
.....
Looking back this may not be clear..

When in diag mode with throttle closed the TPS should read around 17-19..at WOT it should read 99-100.

Maybe good to check the resistance again you may have not been connected to the right wires.
 

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Ok. I found all the codes. Mine is showinh the lean angle sensor is not right. When upright it should read. 0.4-1.4. Mine is 4.0. Where is this sensor. To test it you have to turn it to 65 degrees and then overturned should read 3.7-4.4.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I believe there is an award to be given out today... and the award for the biggest dumbass of 2018 thus far goes to....ME!!! Lol I was doing like y'all said and rechecking EVERYTHING and upon pulling the spark plug I discovered that I managed to crack the insulator in 2 places one of which had a hole in it and bend the connector prod. I feel so stupid right now lol

With that being said, it obviously fixed my major issue of the bike not getting enough fuel, however, my bike is still dying while at idle. It's like it is missing or something. I can't call it stalling because it just sounds like I hit the kill switch and it seems like it does this more while it's warm. After replacing the spark plug I started the bike and it ran for about 5 minutes at idle with no issues then died. After starting it back up it would die every minute or 30 seconds. Any idea what would cause this? I know it's not the fuel pump, spark plug, tps, cps, and battery...lol
 
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