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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After looking closely at the chassis I noticed some places were I did not really want mud, sand & gravel to have a chance to build up and stand in my frame so here is what I did. starting up front I sprayed some of the expanding foam in the ends of the bumper, not a lot just enough to cap the tube off. (I did not block the small drain hole in the bumper just wanted to keep out the big stuff.)





Now I went to the back and dropped the back skid plate to get to the next part of the frame. You will find 4 holes, two are right behind the rear diff.
and one on each side by the back wheel.


The holes by the diff. are 1 1/8" and the holes by the back wheels are 7/8". I bought these plugs at a auto store to seal the holes.





After going through the mud and what ever there is no way when your wheeler is sitting flat it will leave the frame, this even goes for when you wash it, so that is what these plugs are all about. I think these few things I have done will surely help to ( KEEP THE BIG STUFF OUT ). Thanks for looking
 

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Water and mud will still find a way in. I sprayed everything inside with fluid film. Did this to an f150 and it works really good through the winter months of salt no rust on that.
 

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If you are going to seal it you need to seal it 100%.
When its hot outside the frame tubes will be colder. Any small openings in the tubing will allow water vapor into the tube. Once inside the water vapor will condensate forming water droplets that will not re-vaporize or be able to drain out.
 
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I think I would rather have them open so air can get in there to dry the water out. I have never seen a frame on a atv rust out. I like the fluid film idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks for the advice but I am not worried that much about it because I do not do deep water or mud pits it is just to (keep the big stuff out) and the plugs will and can be easily taken out after every Ride & washing to check for water and whatnot but thanks for the concerns.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Water and mud will still find a way in. I sprayed everything inside with fluid film. Did this to an f150 and it works really good through the winter months of salt no rust on that.
(fluid film ) how did you apply it to get every thing coated? Just curious, I just might do it myself.
 

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Fluid film on a four wheeler will wash off very quickly. I have coated some frame parts with graphit chain spray( for dirt bike chains),with better success than the fluid film..dont get me wrong i love FF and i spray it religiously on my 2003 f25
 

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What kind of (fluid film ) did you use,ziebart? and how did you apply it to get every thing coated? Just curious, I just might do it myself.
Do they make different kinds ? I use FF as well great stuff .
 
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Along with keeping water put you will be keeping water in, that spray foam will also hold water which will rust the bumper faster. By closing the open areas you will keep moisture in and restrict air flow not allowing the water to evaporate.
Just for example when we cut into steel support posts in houses that are welded closed on both ends and in dry homes the insides are rusted to hell and the outside is just fine
 

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As a 10 year helicopter pilot and aircraft mechanic on low flying search and rescue aircraft, I see my fair share of corrosion. I can say with certainty...leave the plugs out. Please don't take offense to this, but your asking for trouble. If you don't do "deep mud and water" then why would you be trying to keep it out?
 
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As a 10 year helicopter pilot and aircraft mechanic on low flying search and rescue aircraft, I can say with certainty that you need to leave the plugs out. Btw, that great stuff ain't so great, after about 8 months it looks all crumbly and turns a burnt orange color. Even if you paint it.

Now what would be a good idea, is to put the plugs in right before a ride, then when you get back pull them out and wash it. Leave them out for it to dry, then put them back in right before you ride again. Water will always find its way in. It's in the air, it can go through imperfect welds and expansion holes and threads. They left them open for a reason, it's so that the water that goes in can come back out.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
As a 10 year helicopter pilot and aircraft mechanic on low flying search and rescue aircraft, I can say with certainty that you need to leave the plugs out. Btw, that great stuff ain't so great, after about 8 months it looks all crumbly and turns a burnt orange color. Even if you paint it.

Now what would be a good idea, is to put the plugs in right before a ride, then when you get back pull them out and wash it. Leave them out for it to dry, then put them back in right before you ride again. Water will always find its way in. It's in the air, it can go through imperfect welds and expansion holes and threads. They left them open for a reason, it's so that the water that goes in can come back out.
I guess I just don't make things clear some times but that is exactly what I had in mind, to put the plugs in before a ride, then wash, then remove them until next ride. I sure did not mean to have made this post so difficult to understand, my apologies.
 

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In that case, me thinks it a great idea!!!
 
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You can get flexible tubes to go on the end of a schutz gun to spray undercoating inside of tubing, works really well. I like to park mine nose up on an incline every once in awhile and wash them out. You definitely don't want build up in there. Luckily for us corrosion isn't much of a problem here.
 
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When I am washing our bikes I jack one end up and wash. If it is really full of crap (sticks, mud, grass) I take the wheels off when up in the air. Makes it easier to to reach in and grab. I then switch to the other side when done the first. With elevated ends I don't worry too much about water sitting in any thing too long. It is also easier to wash the skid plates of this way
 

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Along with keeping water put you will be keeping water in, that spray foam will also hold water which will rust the bumper faster. By closing the open areas you will keep moisture in and restrict air flow not allowing the water to evaporate.
Just for example when we cut into steel support posts in houses that are welded closed on both ends and in dry homes the insides are rusted to hell and the outside is just fine
x 2

They're left open for a reason. That foam will make your bumper rust/weaker and forgetting to remove those plugs before storage just a couples times will greatly accelerate corrosion. Toss the plugs in the trash and cut the foam out.
 
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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
I am still going to use the plugs because they do a good job in keeping the BS out, and I won't forget to take them out, but I did remove the little bet of foam in the ends of the bumper and installed these push-fit air admittance valves.
 

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There are also drain holes on the main tubes under the motor. This drains center of frame. Water will get in there since those were not plugged. Open to air is best.
 

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leave plugs out , clean and WD40 often

I agree , leave open .. there are holes up front , and in the center of main frame rails , so that is not sealed anyways.

Drill holes in bottom of plastics on front bumper , as when I took mine off to put my new front brush guard on ,, THEY WERE FILLED WITH WATER ,,,lol like two gallons in each damn near, they only put vent holes at top...

That foam will rot your bumper out , there is also a sm hole on bottom front of that steel bumper tube..(nevermind , i see u changed that)
And yes I agree , if you throw them in pre-ride , and remove immediately post-ride ,,, than SWEEEEEEET...

If you are worried about rust ,, just keep it very clean , use a leaf blower to dry it after washing , clean out all tubes , spray trouble areas with WD40 , or GUN OIL , including into those tubes.

 
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RDC, I understand about wanting to keep large debris out. Problem is water will get in and rust it out. Actually much faster than leaving the tubes wide open. If you must plug them, try the following.

Eastwood company sells a rust encapsulator that will stop any rust already started and prevent more from forming. They also have rust preventative for frames. These come in an aerosol can and have a hose about 2' long so you can get back into your frame. Or in you case tubing. I did this to my Jeep and it sprays really well and has great coverage. I'm sure there are other brands/products similar to this but this is the only one I've used.

If nothing else, spray some WD40, silicon spray, lithium grease, or any other type of oil product down the down the tubes to rust proof it.
 
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