[Darkness]

Yes another oil question, sorry!

My Yamaha dealer is all over the map, one tech says this, the store owner says that.. Nobody agrees..
I checked the owners manual and it just states we should use: API SG (or higher) and JASO standard MA.

I ended up coming home with regular 5w30 Yamalube (non synthetic) as recommended by the dealer owner, but it states nowhere on the bottle that it is JASO MA and also does not state that it is wet clutch compatible.

Bike only has 4 hours on it, I'm changing the oil to get rid of the break in metal shavings and because winter is here and I will use the bike to plow my driveway, so a lighter weight seems ideal for our Canadian winters.

I'm just concerned about the JASO MA not listed anywhere on the Yamalube 5W30.. Anyone else use this and is it ok, or what do you recommend?
Thank you!

 

[dezz]

Does your bottle of oil have a picture of an ATV on it? A blue Grizzly?

The 5w30 grade Yamalube usually has that label, and is called "Utility Performance" or "Performance All Purpose".

That's the oil you need in your bike for cold, winter conditions.

 

[Fireman2]

I have used both 5w20 and 10w20, has Yamalube 10/20 in right now, for winter one thing just like any machine let it idle to warm up the oil to circulate.
If still in warranty, use what the manual suggests.

 

[Darkness]

Does your bottle of oil have a picture of an ATV on it? A blue Grizzly?

The 5w30 grade Yamalube usually has that label, and is called "Utility Performance" or "Performance All Purpose".

That's the oil you need in your bike for cold, winter conditions.

Thanks,

Yeah thats the one I have with the blue ATV on it.
Swapped it out today, all good.. The only thing I noticed is that I had a bit of water in my oil..
Anyone have any idea how this could get in?
Dipstick was properly seated...

 

[guipago]

Water in oil is from short runs when cases don't get hot enough to evaporate the condensation that builds up inside engine, your cold winters sure don't help.

 

[RobPt]

Here's a special Yamaha website on oil for Canada: The Yamaha Motors Canada page for Yamaha Lubricants
And don't worry about the JASO standard because since '92 all Yamalube oils comply to this standard: Yamalube

....If still in warranty, use what the manual suggests.

A good suggestion. I always use the oil that's mentioned in the manual! Why? Simply because my opinion is that the manufacturer knows best what's good for their engines .........

"Fluids: Use the proper fluids specified by the carmaker
Carmakers dump millions of dollars into research and development to determine the best fluids to put into their vehicles for maximum performance and longevity. So why do people continue to use what they believe are the best fluids for their new vehicles? " (the complete article)

Want to read more about oils? Go ahead: The Engine Oil Bible

And on warming up an engine: Click

Happy Lubricating

Rob

 

[Darkness]

Great information Rob! Thank you for sharing!

 

[guipago]

Good articles RobPt, my dad(motor engineer) told me the same thing about warming an engine many moons ago when I 1st started riding/driving, the same principle should be used with carbies too as the choke systems dump large amounts of fuel down the bores as well, can't get away from it with carbies as you can with FI, :nerd: if you have a clutch system that crunches when you put it in gear in the mornings it's likely the plates sticking from cold oil or just the cold, try pushing in the clutch pedal/lever & starting the engine, keep it depressed till your ready to move, this helps separates the plates & reduces the crunching.

 

[KodiakBeater]

FYI...Yamaha buys it's oil from the Lowest bidder that meets specification....

 

[wheelsquad]

FYI...Yamaha buys it's oil from the Lowest bidder that meets specification....

I've always followed that train of thought too. In 20 years of servicing small engines, I've never once bought an OEM branded engine oil. And never once had a major engine failure.

OEM's don't have their own refineries and chemical plants. And they all follow industry established specs. I have no objective data to say they do in fact contract with the lowest bidder that meets spec. But it wouldn't surprise me. Oils can have a wide range of quality within the same specs though. And that's why I stick with non-OEM oils... They have to compete with each other and be scrutinized by users without the advantage of having an OEM label on them.

On the flip side of the coin, I'd have no concerns running OEM oils. Just personally can't justify the extra cost living on a budget.

 

[4dbass]

I run Shell Rotilla T-6 5-40 full syn.
Yes it's a diesel oil but it is also JASCO MA rated and it's only $19 a gal at Wally World....
I run it in the Grizzly, the Rancher and my 2013 F-250 diesel.

 

[dezz]

I run Shell Rotilla T-6 15-40 full syn.
Yes it's a diesel oil but it is also JASCO MA rated and it's only $19 a gal at Wally World....
I run it in the Grizzly, the Rancher and my 2013 F-250 diesel.

That's a heavy oil for use in winter. I wouldn't run that.
T6 is fine....but that weight is too heavy for this time of year in Canada.

 

[4dbass]

Rotilla T-6 also comes in 5w-40 in the northern part of the country.
I also corrected my OP on the oil weight.

 

[Toxic]

I run rotella T6 5-40 in my grizzly all winter on tracks..never had a problem..best oil ever made...i even run it in my old craftman snowblowers..you can get 0-40 too..most people dont understand what those numbers mean anyways tho..lol