[8yn815]

Hello! Next mod on my list is replacing the exhaust. Basically I am looking for something that looks nicer, sounds nicer but not louder than stock. More power is welcome but it's just the esthetics what I am interested in. Any experiences you can share with me? Thanks in advance!

 

[POHLHAMMER]

Love my HMF Swamp quiet series. I think I read they changed the name though.. It's not too much louder than stock , is WAY lighter , sounds much deeper tone , and does increase airflow. It is Alum also , so rust is not a issue.

 

[dogwood]

Be sure to add a fuel controller if you change the exhaust/muffler. More exhaust flow means a leaner air/fuel mixture which may result in damage. The mixture is lean already with the stock exhaust.

 

[8yn815]

Be sure to add a fuel controller if you change the exhaust/muffler. More exhaust flow means a leaner air/fuel mixture which may result in damage. The mixture is lean already with the stock exhaust.

Also if it’s just a slip on?

Adding a fuel controller is too much for me as I don’t think I can set the parameters right.

I have just read that if I make modifications like the air box lid (which I just made today) I might need to fine tune it... Should I go back to the stock lid?

Thanks for your help!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[8yn815]

Love my HMF Swamp quiet series. I think I read they changed the name though.. It's not too much louder than stock , is WAY lighter , sounds much deeper tone , and does increase airflow. It is Alum also , so rust is not a issue.

Thanks! It’s called Titan and I think with the quiet core is more or less what I was looking for!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Caligula]

Also if it’s just a slip on?

Adding a fuel controller is too much for me as I don’t think I can set the parameters right.

I have just read that if I make modifications like the air box lid (which I just made today) I might need to fine tune it... Should I go back to the stock lid?

If you go with HMF, they'll ship a controller which has the basic parameters 'dialed in', as I understand it.
Albeit I don't know if these presets are good enough/spot on though (others with experience with HMF et al, may chime in?).
You'll still be able to finetune after that, for your liking.


/Kasper

 

[Grizzcrazy]

If cost is an issue, look in the parts for sale threads. Lots of guys upgrade an sell tuners pretty cheap. They still good and have lots of use in them. Sometimes they were on a former Grizzly.

 

[dezz]

Also if it’s just a slip on?

Adding a fuel controller is too much for me as I don’t think I can set the parameters right.

I have just read that if I make modifications like the air box lid (which I just made today) I might need to fine tune it... Should I go back to the stock lid?

Thanks for your help!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

These things are running lean stock. A safe lean condition, but lean all the same.
Doing any intake or exhaust mods should have a fuel programmer added in order to keep it reliable long term.

And I truly do recommend you do not modify the stock airbox cover. Doing this usually just leads to dirt/water entry into the filter, which will ultimately get into the engine. This is something racers do and is required for every extra little bit of performance they can get. Long term reliability is not part of a racers agenda. In real world everyday use, this simply should not be performed.

Setting up a fuel programmer is not difficult. You can keep adjusting it until you get it right all the while using the bike. Most exhaust manufacturers will even supply a basic starting point on your controller, and in many cases, these are perfectly fine. Leave it and ride.

Trust us. If you can't afford to purchase the fuel programmer now, then you really won't be able to afford rebuilding the engine when you burn up an exhaust valve or melt a piston. Additionally, you'll more than likely have hot running issues which may melt your plastics.

 

[8yn815]

Thank you very much! Of course long term reliability is my main concern so I will use the original lid with. If I buy a slip on exhaust I will definitely buy a fuel programmer.

 

[POHLHAMMER]

I 100% agree with everyone's advice to purchase a tuner. I run one , and it was by far the best performance enhancement I made. Buy the tuner FIRST , then save up for the pipe. I agree with dezz about the cover as well.

 

[8yn815]

I 100% agree with everyone's advice to purchase a tuner. I run one , and it was by far the best performance enhancement I made. Buy the tuner FIRST , then save up for the pipe. I agree with dezz about the cover as well.

Thanks! I will follow your advice!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[skeetden]

I know its a little ******* but I cut off the tip on a stock toyota corrola muffler and made me a new flange, its almost the same size as the internal pipe in the grizz muffler. it did make it a tad bit louder but not much, mainly i noticed a power gain. Maybe got 2-3 hp out of if

 

[Nathan007]

In my case I got the HMF swamp with fuel controller, about same noise as stock with 7000km, but way deeper and less metallic sound! Have it for about 2 years and still love it. Only downside is if you have a rear bumper, you may need to fit a curved tip because originally its designed to flow straight out (in the bumper which causes massive echo)

I also added an AEM wideband sensor and gauge to keep an eye on my mixture... Just in case

Sent from my 6045I using Tapatalk

 

[Madkawi750]

I know its a little ******* but I cut off the tip on a stock toyota corolla muffler and made me a new flange, its almost the same size as the internal pipe in the grizz muffler. it did make it a tad bit louder but not much, mainly i noticed a power gain. Maybe got 2-3 hp out of if

I also made my own Muffler tip. I used 1 1/2" pipe welded to a new flange. I used a screen type of metal sheet to make a spark arrestor. If I were to do it again, I would go 1 1/4 maybe even 1 1/8 ". The 1 1/2" is nearly as loud as a 2R racing 2" tip. I modified the inside of my tip to restrict a bit more so I am likely at 1 1/4 " equivalent now and its quieter, but still flows nice, sounds deeper than stock and does not look quite a much like a Limp Weenie like the factory tip does.

 

[skeetden]

I also made my own Muffler tip. I used 1 1/2" pipe welded to a new flange. I used a screen type of metal sheet to make a spark arrestor. If I were to do it again, I would go 1 1/4 maybe even 1 1/8 ". The 1 1/2" is nearly as loud as a 2R racing 2" tip. I modified the inside of my tip to restrict a bit more so I am likely at 1 1/4 " equivalent now and its quieter, but still flows nice, sounds deeper than stock and does not look quite a much like a Limp Weenie like the factory tip does.

Nice! glad to know i'm not the only one cheap enough to make my own lol:grin2:
I have to say I am loving my tip, it looks almost like it belongs on the bike! I don't mind the loudness myself I think it's as close to perfect I can get for my taste.

 

[jvictory1974]

If you go with HMF, they'll ship a controller which has the basic parameters 'dialed in', as I understand it.
Albeit I don't know if these presets are good enough/spot on though (others with experience with HMF et al, may chime in?).
You'll still be able to finetune after that, for your liking.


/Kasper

I went with HMF pipe and programmer and loved the fact that it was plug and play. Mine came adjusted right out of the box and I've never had to touch it.

 

[jesus_is_lord]

Get you some barker duals!

 

[Grizzcrazy]

He said not louder than stock. You really can't get much louder than Barker's. Lol.

 

[Rpmstl]

My HMF Penland with the torque modifier insert installed is borderline obnoxious. People hate to ride behind me.

I recommend running the HMF’s with the quiet core and spark arrester installed.