Yamaha Grizzly ATV Forum banner

21 - 40 of 49 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,128 Posts
I rented the 1 13/16 socket from a local rentall. Only cost 5$ a pop.
 
  • Like
Reactions: KodiakAfishyo

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
I had a 16 grizzly, very disappointing machine! Told myself I'd never get another gutless grizzly again. But as I'm lookin for another quad, unfortunately, I've narrowed my choices to the king quad or grizzly, possibly the Kodiak. Grizzly only cause the ride was very plush, very comparable to polaris stuff if not better. And the fact that yamaha went back to the 686. That motor built in a raptor I used to have dynoed at 70 hp and 50 tq, to the wheels. For the most part it was pretty reliable. Much more so then my current 18 polaris xpt4. That power was done with no nos, no turbo and stock crank.
I don't see it being a problem getting a reliable 10 ,15 maybe even 20 HP out of the grizzly or Kodiak. Dispite it being less hp then a can am or polairs, it could easily hold its own, keep in mind a grizzly is about a 100 lbs lighter then a big 1000 cc can am or polaris.
My 16 grizzly had a complete clutch kit from JBS, I didn't feel any power differences. I think the clutch kit actually hurt my hp and take off. After taking with Erik at EHS racing he agreed, and said he's seen a decrease in power from a clutch kit, at least as far as the grizzly and Kodiak go. Although the Kodiak does good with grizzly clutch weights.
Do engine mods first on a grizzly, then maybe some clutch work. Intake, barker exhaust, PC5, plus 3 TB, possibly plus 1 Valves, cams, and possibly a little bit higher compression piston, probably no more then about a 11:1 to 12:1 or you'll have to run race fuel. And get it custom dyno tuned, none of this stuff will do you any good if it doesn't all work together like it should.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
355 Posts
I had a 16 grizzly, very disappointing machine! Told myself I'd never get another gutless grizzly again. But as I'm lookin for another quad, unfortunately, I've narrowed my choices to the king quad or grizzly, possibly the Kodiak. Grizzly only cause the ride was very plush, very comparable to polaris stuff if not better. And the fact that yamaha went back to the 686. That motor built in a raptor I used to have dynoed at 70 hp and 50 tq, to the wheels. For the most part it was pretty reliable. Much more so then my current 18 polaris xpt4. That power was done with no nos, no turbo and stock crank.
I don't see it being a problem getting a reliable 10 ,15 maybe even 20 HP out of the grizzly or Kodiak. Dispite it being less hp then a can am or polairs, it could easily hold its own, keep in mind a grizzly is about a 100 lbs lighter then a big 1000 cc can am or polaris.
My 16 grizzly had a complete clutch kit from JBS, I didn't feel any power differences. I think the clutch kit actually hurt my hp and take off. After taking with Erik at EHS racing he agreed, and said he's seen a decrease in power from a clutch kit, at least as far as the grizzly and Kodiak go. Although the Kodiak does good with grizzly clutch weights.
Do engine mods first on a grizzly, then maybe some clutch work. Intake, barker exhaust, PC5, plus 3 TB, possibly plus 1 Valves, cams, and possibly a little bit higher compression piston, probably no more then about a 11:1 to 12:1 or you'll have to run race fuel. And get it custom dyno tuned, none of this stuff will do you any good if it doesn't all work together like it should.
Eric says completely opposite in his videos, along with dyno proof that clutch mods boost the grizzly/kodiak.
As for you saying that you couldn't notice any difference, you obviously didn't have something assembled correctly. Lighter weights and machined sheave made a night and day difference in my kodiak.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
I had a shop install the clutch, then I pulled it out 3 different times checking it. There seemed to be nothing wrong with it and it was all installed correctly.
How old is the video of Erik you are talking about?
I personally talked to him less then 2 months ago.
He said if I get the Kodiak, to put grizzly weights in it and leave it alone. Most of the time he is seeing issues with clutch kits on the grizzlies and Kodiaks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
355 Posts
The age of the video is pointless, seeing video proof of a stock dyno run, and then a dyno run after machining, ace then again after air box mods, and again after fuel controller. You can see the dyno gains on screen.
I'm certain you had to have misunderstood him about issues with "clutch kits". Kits are an oversell, and usually contain a bunch of items to gradually increase performance. We are talking weights and matching a sheave, nothing to cause issues there unless you mess up the machining, or flip a weight during install.
There are so many members on here with clutch work done, myself included, with hundreds and thousands of issue free miles on their bikes after the mods.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
Screw your experiences. I know what mine were and have read more then just a few other complaints about clutch kits on the Yamahas with NO improvements.
I also know what Erik just told me in December regarding a 19 or 20 grizzly or Kodiak.
We all know how accurate but dynos are, lol.
Before you want to claim any real gains, get some track times or dyno results to look at!
You sound like the kinda guy that claims his car or truck is faster after just installing a CAI, lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,128 Posts
Seems others have reported JBS kits as hit or miss affair as well.

I can personaly attests that shims , spring, and /or Coop45 machined sheave has showed amazing gains on my little 550 for over 5000 miles now.

I used to have terrible off the line torque compared to my buddies 700. Now both bikes feel very similar on take off.
 
  • Like
Reactions: woodsman307

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
I also agree that shims, and the Coop45 machined sheave are amazing. As for as weights on my grizzly 18 to 16 gram may not do much more then burn gas. However my buddy has a 2016 Kodiak I did the shim mod don’t remember the size but changed his weights to 18 and wow.
Without those mod my Grizzly has problems spinning Terms in thick mud.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
Seems others have reported JBS kits as hit or miss affair as well.

I can personaly attests that shims , spring, and /or Coop45 machined sheave has showed amazing gains on my little 550 for over 5000 miles now.

I used to have terrible off the line torque compared to my buddies 700. Now both bikes feel very similar on take off.
Where did you get your clutch kit from?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
Where did you get your clutch kit from?
No kit, I just listened to what the people on here said and went from there. First ride without anything was a struggle. Then I did the white secondary spring and a 1.5 shim with HMF pipe and results were fair to good. But once I had my primary done to go with everything else. Wow!
Now I did take off the exhaust and went back stock, well that lasted for all of 5 minutes.

To be fair to everyone else on here I don’t recall many people running tires that are 41lbs a piece, and I’m sure my fat ass at 263 doesn’t help my bike much either.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
What's happening with the primary?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
What's happening with the primary?
I had Coop45 machine my primary. That along with my shim installed, I have about a 3.17 to 1 ratio.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
So a guy can mill the sheave and use shims? When I had the JBS kit the sheave was miled, didn't feel any difference. If I remember right I had a gold or purple spring and slug weights as well.
I have to wonder what was wrong with the kit from JBS and would I truly see a difference with what you have done?
Would clutch parts be different for a guy at a higher elevation vs a guy, say, close to sea level?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
I don’t want to lie I have no idea about clutch parts being different for elevation, I know does though. In fact I actually live in MS, roughly thirty minutes from the Gulf of Mexico. As far as JBS being wrong, well they are a company who I would imagine who does a sheave at mass production numbers. So things are pound to be hit or miss from time to time. Coop45, as far as I know is the one and only guy who does his work. Took about a week and a half to send it to him and get it back.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
Does he have a website or is he just a member on this form?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
Thanks!
Maybe there is hope for a Yamaha after all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,128 Posts
I started with 1.5 mm of shims, then 600 miles later added a stiffer spring. About another 600 miles I sent my sheave to Arnie Cooper (Coop45) for his machining services.

With a extra 0.5mm shim I'm at 3.1:1 initial ratio compare to stock 2.45:1


Another thing to remember is JBS machines the weight channels.

Arnie Cooper machines the sheave surface
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
I don't understand much in this department, but I'm pretty sure JBS said they machine the sheave so the belt rides lower, giving you a lower gear ratio.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,670 Posts
I don't understand much in this department, but I'm pretty sure JBS said they machine the sheave so the belt rides lower, giving you a lower gear ratio.
I talked to James a few yeas ago, to compare his machining theory to Arnie's.
He does machine the weight channels so the weights sit closer to the center of the primary sheave axis allowing the movable sheave to start further from the fixed sheave thus raising the pulley ratio some. He also provides a kit with different parts to make his theory work.
I called and asked James several times for specific numbers after his machine work and he always denied giving me this info, saying just trust me (He got to be known around here as Just Because I Said - J.B.S.).
At that same time when I was investigating machining, I also talking to Arnie several times and he answered every question I asked, was very timely in his replies and with his work. I decided to use Arnie because he started this c.v.t. pulley ratio modding, first with his mod 1 (shim), then his mod 2 (cut cam plate) then his mod 3 (machining). He knows his stuff.
 
21 - 40 of 49 Posts
Top