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Is it possible peoples lack of satisfaction with certain services or machining jobs could relate to misconception about what they are actually getting ?
I have Coops’s mod 3 to overcome the loss of initial poke having added weight through bolt on bits and heavier 27” bearclaws.
Though my added weight increases were added from day 1 and I never really experienced the standard grizzly.
I expected great things having fitted the machined sheave and gold spring , and initially was slightly deflated on the first blast on it , because , and I think this is the relevant bit , it reduced the take off gearing , as in from a standstill not throughout the rev range.
I think I thought would be pulling rolling wheelies as and when I stabbed the throttle , but after playing a bit more I realised I could do what I actually really wanted / needed , which was pop the front end up onto and over things as I came across them.
I can pull nice wheelies in high and low from a standstill with no effort, which feels great when messing about, and comes into play when presented with logs/ditches/water.
Having come from a can am twin which had less bottom end poke but stronger mid range and top end, I noticed the singles positives and negatives straight away
Is it a case that people maybe haven’t registered just where the machining comes into play , as in from standstill not whilst already rolling along ?
Very possibly I am talking bollocks ?in which case ignore the above drivel?
 

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Very good info, should of done more research before I bought a kit for my 16 grizzly. I was definitely not impressed with the JBS kit.
Thanks for the info.
Arnie is cooper45, correct?
 

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Yes Cooper45 is Arnie Cooper
 
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The 16 grizzly I used to have was a, no wheelie turd, the day I picked it up. It was the same even with a 500 dallor JBS clutch kit and EHS racing tuner. Other than the ride quality on the grizzly I much preferred to ride my old king quad 700 or my grandpa's King Quad 750. There was quite a bit more power on those King quads compared to that grizzly.
That grizzly was one of the biggest disappointments that I've ever boughten, from the day I bought it to the day I traded it in. Although the plush ride was amazing, and is the biggest reason I'm looking to get another one of them or a Kodiak. But I would only do that if I can know that with some engine mods and clutch mods I can get it to be where I'd be happy with it.
It seems to me with a clutch kit an engine bolt ons, a grizzly should be faster than a stock King Quad. With some small internal mods it should be able to wax both the king quad and Brute Force. If that would be the case I'll be plenty happy with another Yamaha.
 

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Screw your experiences. I know what mine were and have read more then just a few other complaints about clutch kits on the Yamahas with NO improvements.
I also know what Erik just told me in December regarding a 19 or 20 grizzly or Kodiak.
We all know how accurate but dynos are, lol.
Before you want to claim any real gains, get some track times or dyno results to look at!
You sound like the kinda guy that claims his car or truck is faster after just installing a CAI, lol.
At least you are starting to come around after reading everyone else's posts. JBS does one thing and says another, sometimes contradicting himself. Maybe an apology is in order for your comments, no?

No but dyno here, and no I'm not the Yung punk that believes a cai will gain me hp, only sticks do that FYI.

All I can say, the 700 kodiak was an ok machine, leaps and bounds ahead of my old 450 foreman.
Did a shim mod and purple spring first and it woke the bike up, although a bit sluggish when you hammer throttle in hi range, but come to find out, that was due to a weight flipped out of the channel and laying sideways due to me not squeezing it right putting it together. Still, I noticed a difference in the bike.
But the big difference was when the local guy here, who is a yamaha cvt guru, did my sheave. Machined down, and machined inside the weight channels. 18gr Griz weights too. Assembled properly, and to my amazement, instantly, a different bike.
I'm a big guy, 300+, so needless to say, the stock kodiak struggled to wheelie at all.
After the clutch work, I can punch the throttle in hi, and the wheels wasn't to come up, with a little pull back and lean back, it will lift. In low range, it's an eye opener, I punch the throttle and it lifts the front of I'm not leaning forward,
It's not a hp increase, it a torque increase, and a change to were the power is applied now, alot more in low to mid range.
My kodiak is now sportier than than the grizzly and with a savings of a few thousand dollars, that's money that can go into accessories now.

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I'm trying to be hopeful, but still can't help but have doubts. I read, on this forum among others, that the JBS kit was great. I read lots of reviews that said JBS's kit was very noticeable. For me it was not, it hard to be so trusting this time. Any recent dyno proof of these claims?
The other thing that kinda throws me off is Erik, with EHS racing just told me it's best to pretty much leave these clutches along on the Yamahas. If there was a kit that really works like is claimed, then I don't understand why he didn't tell me that when I was on the phone with him.
 

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To be honest, I was in the same boat, first got the bike she joined the forum, reading all this about clutch work. I thought, there no way it can be that drastic of a change. So I thought I would try just shims and spring first, it's not expensive and is easily reversible. Even with my booboo putting it back together, I noticed a difference and decided to hit up the guy locally to machine my sheave and get lighter weights. I had gone to him to get him to do my purple spring because my attempt at building a tool failed. He did my spring in like 2 min, fur free, and gave me a great price on machining and weights. So when I can't back from vacation, I had him do the sheave and weights.
One thing I discovered beforehand during my research on this.... Don't buy a "kit" from anywhere. It's cheaper, and you get exactly what you need by sourcing each item individually.

I don't believe there are any dyno videos out on the 19 or 20 bikes yet.
I believe it's gonna be similar to the 16-18 dyno run, but with a different torque curve, climbing higher earlier in the rpm range.

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The 700 Grizzly does not have a whole lot of HP, 48 at most, so any changes from stock is going to rob what little HP you have, I think Yamaha is selling reliability and a great comfy trail and utility quad, adding performance gimmicks in hopes of keeping up to other OEM brands high HP quads will leave most frustrated, adding bigger tires than doing a shim mod or a machined sheave pretty much puts you back to stock with the bigger tires, a controller and a slip on exhaust you may gain a bit but again will leave you frustrated running with the bigger hp brands, I have a controller for the lean condition of my 708, I have the machine sheave and purple spring for towing also gives me a better midrange when climbing long steep hills, no Hp was gained with these add on's just puts it where you need it the most, you will need deep pockets for big Hp gains on the Grizzly.
 
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Really do appreciate the info guys!
I think the power from the grizzly would be OK if it had more of a hit at the bottom. The 13 grizzly I borrowed for a trip was better, seems like it was right there with the KQ.
If anyone here gets bit by the bug and does do enternal engine mods, keep us, or me, updated.
 
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