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Here it is I believe, not sure why I couldn't find it in my library.
 

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I haven't watched this video for a long time but as I just did a review I realized it caters quite a bit do the Renegade, if you skipped to about 13:20, I go into discussion on the 16 grizzly. I have the red Suzuki still but not the others. After about six hundred miles on the Renegade I got rid of it. The ride was very stiff and I could never get that where I wanted it and then I had one problem after another with it. The Last Straw was when it developed a hard knock in the transmission almost instantly after getting it back from a dealer it was estimated to cost over $1,000. I ended up dumping it and the grizzly for 4 seat RZR. I kind of wish now that I wouldn't have done that but again the stiffness of that Renegade was nuts and the constant issues told me this was going to be a very unreliable machine and very expensive.
 

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I’ll start researching the Brute again. Last time I looked at it I recall the entire front end being plastic. It reminds me of a mid 80s Cameron. If you hit something it’s all plastic junk out front. The other item I recall was it has a very high seat height. The brakes being inside the rear diff also worry me. As the brakes wear all the debris will cover the bearings inside the diff. I asked a couple guys about how long the rear brakes last. I was told 1200 miles. That would mean taking the rear diff out about 5 times a year for me. Seems like I’d spend the same money I spent on the XXC1000 rear diffs. I’m gonna go read up On the Brute again.
Thanks for a great conversation. I’ve always respected this forum.



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The wet brake system that the brute has is the same as the kodiak, one of the main reasons I choose the kodiak.
My buddy has a brute about 3 years after they came out. Any time he stopped, he applied the park brake, I didn't know this, so when I jumped on it one morning, I put it in gear and pinned the throttle, I noticed no lag as I was used to the immense power of my 200 Honda big red, lol
Approx 20 min later of full speed driving down a logging road, warm oil started misting onto me. We stopped, couldn't figure what it was. Checked all fluids after getting it picked up with a truck. Then my buddy had a thought, asked me if I released the brake. I said no. Didn't know it had a park brake. Tried to take rear-end apart to check the brake discs, we needed a special socket, After talking to dealer,, they had no tool, they hadn't had the rear apart on a bike they silks for 3 years. Got the same story from 2 other dealers in nearby towns.
I bought a big socket age modified it to fit, got the rear apart aged got the dealer to order in a set of brake discs.
They looked like the lsd clutch discs.... We couldn't see wear, and compared to the new oem brakes, they were identical, 23000+ km on them with about 15km of that the brakes clamps on while driving.
That oil mist turned out to be the diff oil got so hot due to brakes applied the whole time, it expanded age started coming up out the vent tube which exits right between the handle bars.
There is no metal to wear, it's felt pads that wear.
Whoever told you 1200 miles per set is full of caca.... My buddy's bike have over 30000 km on it when he got rid of it... Original rear brakes. That's almost 19000 miles.

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I’m curious as to “it lasts a long time”. Once a year rear diff changes wouldn’t work for my riding. I rode 6200 miles last year. Changing brakes on a Grizzly or my XXC1000 is a 30 minute job.
Opening the rear diff seems like an enormous pain if I need to do it multiple times a year. Also, I see the Brute has a Ujoint in The rear drive shaft. Greasing that looks like a real hat trick. I had to replace my Can Ams rear drive shaft and Rear diff 3 times last year. I changed the rear diff fluid every 500 miles.
I also see the Brute has cables to lock the front diff and work the rear brakes. Cables are an issue with mud and water. Cable actuated items is 70’s technology.


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I’m also on the Kodiak owner’s forum and I have not seen a single post of anyone having any issues with the rear break system the Kodiak uses. The 6200 miles you ride a year with diff oil changed every 500 miles you shouldn’t have any issues with the break. I read a atv magazine article where they test drive new machines and they made a comment that the rear break will probably last the life of the machine. Being a wet break it’s not going to wear anything like a dry conventional type disc break.
 

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I’m also on the Kodiak owner’s forum and I have not seen a single post of anyone having any issues with the rear break system the Kodiak uses. The 6200 miles you ride a year with diff oil changed every 500 miles you shouldn’t have any issues with the break. I read a atv magazine article where they test drive new machines and they made a comment that the rear break will probably last the life of the machine. Being a wet break it’s not going to wear anything like a dry conventional type disc break.
Most heavy equipment I work on have wet brakes and they basically last forever, Clutchpack style wet brakes just don't wear unless they are heavily abused/adjusted too tight. I've had to rebuild a few with 20,000+ hours on them but that's on equipment run by "ramrod" operators.
 

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Are you using OEM rear diffs. Mud and Wheels sell a Can-am Rear Diff that seems to be holding up very well vs OEM. They also have a driveshaft for clocking or out of phase issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Are you using OEM rear diffs. Mud and Wheels sell a Can-am Rear Diff that seems to be holding up very well vs OEM. They also have a driveshaft for clocking or out of phase issues.
I went OEm because I figured I’d trade it in by now. If I keep it I’ll buy the 2020 diff and Shortend drive shaft fro. can-am Parts Guy. $1200


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So did Can-Am do an update on the rear diff and drive shaft that seems to be a pretty common issue on The Outlanders and renegades?
 
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