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2021 Yamaha Grizzly 700 SE
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Yeah, got the manual. Was hoping someone on here has run into something similar and cant point me in the right direction. Hate to just start pulling things apart when she is still pretty new. Like why can't it just be a blow fuse, or im even OK with the fuel pump going cause that can be replaced easy lol. This hunting down a wire issue or bad connection somewhere is a little out of my league lol. Thanks for your reply!
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I may try replacing the lean angle sensor since I'm not really sure how to check it and thats way less expensive than an ECU which I really hope is not the actual problem. Is it not possible to pull diagnostic codes without a special tool? Like can i even get into DIAG mode on this 2021 or would i need a special reader? More money to spend to figure out 1 issue which ill probably never have again or take it to someone and be without a quad for probably a couple months. UGH! lol.
 

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Thanks for your reply. I simply use a small wire I had and stuck it in the connectors between the brown/black wire and the Red/blue wire. Now that I have the housing off the relay wires, if I simply touch those same 2 connectors together the fuel pump will engage just as it did with the jumper wire I used. I just double checked the voltage on the brown)black relay which read 12.93?? Guess that's good. The fact she starts right up when I by pass the relay should rule out many other issues but I don't know. Grasping at straws here.
I would try a different relay to eliminate that possibility. The two relays on either side of the FI one are the same the FI one.
If you scan the wiring schematic you will find that the red/black wire makes its way to the kill switch. Kill switch can be the source of issues like yours. My 2013 700 started stalling for no reason. I traced to the kill switch. Consider pulling it apart and cleaning it.

Testing the LAS attached below. It can not be by-passed.

The DIAG/CO mode was taken away in 2014. The DIAG mode was removed in 2016 I believe. Now the only way to to access the FI settings is with a scanner.

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Aside from EPS I believe codes should display if detected. IMO: It would appear issue is outside of the detection areas of the EFI diagnostics.
The only code that may throw in this situation is 12.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I would try a different relay to eliminate that possibility. The two relays on either side of the FI one are the same the FI one.
If you scan the wiring schematic you will find that the red/black wire makes its way to the kill switch. Kill switch can be the source of issues like yours. My 2013 700 started stalling for no reason. I traced to the kill switch. Consider pulling it apart and cleaning it.

Testing the LAS attached below. It can not be by-passed.

The DIAG/CO mode was taken away in 2014. The DIAG mode was removed in 2016 I believe. Now the only way to to access the FI settings is with a scanner.

View attachment 103706
Thanks! I have tried 2 new relays. I can get them to click when I test them not connected. Once connected they do not click at all when I turn the key on and the switch on.

Hate to have an answer for everything but I checked the kill switch too. Cleaned contacts with wire brush. But if I bypass the relay, the bike starts so wouldn't that eliminate the kill switch issue?

Thank you
 

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Which diagnostics were eliminated? It shoes CEL and code numbers would be displayed if an issue with EFI on the display.

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••• Or are we talking about the built in ability to view live engine data? I've been searching for something like that ...similar to my Suzuki outboard.
 

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Pick an older FSM to discover what the DAIG and CO modes were.
Font Parallel Screenshot Rectangle Document

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Which diagnostics were eliminated? It shoes CEL and code numbers would be displayed if an issue with EFI on the display.

View attachment 103708
View attachment 103707



••• Or are we talking about the built in ability to view live engine data? I've been searching for something like that ...similar to my Suzuki outboard.
I'm not getting any diagnostic codes showing. Not even the engine warning light comes on (aside from flash upon first turning key). :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I will check the LAS as soon as I can but it's completely in tact and not knocked out of position or anything. It also seems a little crazy you can't reset it. Like what if you do tip the quad over and lean angle sensor doesn't allow it to restart? Gotta buy a new one?

I really appreciate all the replies here everyone. Giving me some things to check/think about is better then where I was at a couple days ago.
 

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About 5 years years ago I rolled mine in some pretty soft stuff, it was upside down for about 30 seconds or so, righted it, and on the second try it fired right back up and never had another issue. No damage done to the Grizz either, fortunately no damage done to me either.
 

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Gotcha... that is what I thought you were referring too. Nice built in ability... still scoping for Yamaha options...even if I have to use an old notebook PC but most things can be done with a VM now.

Pick an older FSM to discover what the DAIG and CO modes were.
 

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Thanks for your reply but this doesn't work on my machine. Tried it to no avail.
That post doesn't appy to your machine. I was responding to @Xa32f634W question about the DIAG mode. The newer machine still have the self diag reporting "codes" but no other function.
 

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About 5 years years ago I rolled mine in some pretty soft stuff, it was upside down for about 30 seconds or so, righted it, and on the second try it fired right back up and never had another issue. No damage done to the Grizz either, fortunately no damage done to me either.
Same here. laid my 16 on it's side in a narrow ditch, took nearly an hour to get it out. Fire right up. They sure smoke after being overturned.

This summer tip the 19 just slightly over, had to wait a 5-10 minutes for the ball bearing to settle back down before it would start. Weird!

I have heard of the LAS being toast after a roll over and had to be replaced. Something with the goo being to thick or semi solidified.

Didn't throw a 30 code either time.
 

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Thanks for your reply. I simply use a small wire I had and stuck it in the connectors between the brown/black wire and the Red/blue wire. Now that I have the housing off the relay wires, if I simply touch those same 2 connectors together the fuel pump will engage just as it did with the jumper wire I used. I just double checked the voltage on the brown)black relay which read 12.93?? Guess that's good. The fact she starts right up when I by pass the relay should rule out many other issues but I don't know. Grasping at straws here.
I am assuming you are leaving the jumper installed to keep it running? If so you are by passing the "run" contacts.
The other two wires control the solenoid.
It seem that it is not getting the signal to run the pump. Might want to check the continuity of these two wires. Red/Black and Blue/Red.
 
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@skiso55
Forgot to ask, does the fuel gauge seem to be working properly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
@skiso55
Forgot to ask, does the fuel gauge seem to be working properly?
Yes, fuel gauge is working properly.

Correct regarding the jumper cable being left in to keep it running. As soon as I remove the jumper cable the bike will shut off.

Let me check the continuity of the red/black and blue/red and will report back. Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
I am assuming you are leaving the jumper installed to keep it running? If so you are by passing the "run" contacts.
The other two wires control the solenoid.
It seem that it is not getting the signal to run the pump. Might want to check the continuity of these two wires. Red/Black and Blue/Red.
Just checked the red/black and blue/red and get 12v coming from both. The only wire I get no reading off of is the red/blue wire which is what needs to be jumped with the brown/black wire in order for the pump to come on. Thank you!
 
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