26" Zillas on 2016 Stock Wheels
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26 Zillas will fit no problem at all. the 26" zillas measure only 24.5-25" tall so they are the same or smaller than stock. I had 27's that measured about 26 1/4" tall.
I have 26" Bighorns on my stock wheels. They measure 26.5" tall and the rears are 12" wide.. No issues at all.
I have 26" Bighorns on my stock wheels. They measure 26.5" tall and the rears are 12" wide.. No issues at all.
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X3 on no problem fitting those puppies on stock wheels , might want to think about 27.s as they tend to run small
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Will I need to do any clutching if I go with 27's?
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You have a 700 so you could get a $10 eBay shim kit and be good.
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You can get 1.5mm shim and a purple spring on eBay for about $40. Free shipping too. Imho, it's the way to go. I won't do a spring, just shims, but I have a 660 and can put in way more shim than you can with a 700. The spring and shim, as victory said, will bring it all back plus some. But with free shipping, why not start by spending the $10 on a shim kit, and see how you like it. I would say go for the 27's. I was on the fence about 25 or 26 inch claws. Bigger tire = more clearance, more clearance = more things you can do with your Grizz.
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12,113 Posts
To predict a change in bike low end performance from installing taller tires, measure your current tire true diameter.
To do this, roll the machine one tire rotation and measure the distance traveled. I put the valve stem at the bottom and mark the floor, then roll the machine until the stem is at the bottom again and mark the floor again, then measure the distance between the marks. That is the true circumference, to be put in this on-line calculator. Hit the calculate button for the true diameter (tire height).
Circle And Sphere Calculator
Other members can give you known diameters of tires they run that you are interested in.
Many tire models have stated size that is not actual when mounted.
Much of the low end power lose is from the added rolling resistance from taller tires. I calculate the percentage difference between tires diameters. If the difference is say 10%, raising the pulley ratio by the same 10% gets the low end performance back. If shims are used for this mod, the shims are a linear mod meaning what is added to the bottom is taken from the top because the shim mod moves the entire movable sheave away from the fixed sheave.
That is why COOP's machining is popular, as he changes the sheave face angle which removes material from the center of the sheave to enhance low end performance, but leaves the outer sheave surface alone for no reduced top speed reduction.
If you want to go with the shim mod, which reduces the top speed, cutting the cam plate can get the top speed back.
To do this, roll the machine one tire rotation and measure the distance traveled. I put the valve stem at the bottom and mark the floor, then roll the machine until the stem is at the bottom again and mark the floor again, then measure the distance between the marks. That is the true circumference, to be put in this on-line calculator. Hit the calculate button for the true diameter (tire height).
Circle And Sphere Calculator
Other members can give you known diameters of tires they run that you are interested in.
Many tire models have stated size that is not actual when mounted.
Much of the low end power lose is from the added rolling resistance from taller tires. I calculate the percentage difference between tires diameters. If the difference is say 10%, raising the pulley ratio by the same 10% gets the low end performance back. If shims are used for this mod, the shims are a linear mod meaning what is added to the bottom is taken from the top because the shim mod moves the entire movable sheave away from the fixed sheave.
That is why COOP's machining is popular, as he changes the sheave face angle which removes material from the center of the sheave to enhance low end performance, but leaves the outer sheave surface alone for no reduced top speed reduction.
If you want to go with the shim mod, which reduces the top speed, cutting the cam plate can get the top speed back.
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You said it Ridgeway. I was hoping you would chime in on this one. However I want to mention that while Coop does great machining, and if you have the cash go for it, but it is quite a bit more pricey than shims and a spring.
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You're right about the expense.
COOP's service just adds what shim alone won't achieve.
His service shines for those at altitude needing a very high pulley ratio.
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I think that if you want low end like that @bikenboat. You want shims, or a machined sheave. Other option is going to the wet clutch and putting in some slugs. All the users I have read about putting them in like @Madkawi750 love them to boot. However madkawi said he put slugs in and then a machined sheave and the sheave seemed to make it worse. It's a bit harder than just cracking open the CVT though.
By price: Shims $10, Spring $30 (I really don't think that would be a fit for you unless you get heavier weights), Slugs $50 (best deal, and probably best fit for you), and Machined sheave about $300 at least. The spring and sheave are going to take top end. I believe slugs don't. You can get your sheave machined to give you more top end if wanted. I don't know what grizzly you have or where you would get it from. @Coop45 could probably give you a quote. There is JBS and Hunterworks to choose from as well. But almost all off us are going to point you to Coop. Kinda the go for the local guy type of thing. As I said before, he does great machining, I know it from what I've read. I have done no clutching yet. So if other guys say I am wrong, well, they're probably right. Lol.
By price: Shims $10, Spring $30 (I really don't think that would be a fit for you unless you get heavier weights), Slugs $50 (best deal, and probably best fit for you), and Machined sheave about $300 at least. The spring and sheave are going to take top end. I believe slugs don't. You can get your sheave machined to give you more top end if wanted. I don't know what grizzly you have or where you would get it from. @Coop45 could probably give you a quote. There is JBS and Hunterworks to choose from as well. But almost all off us are going to point you to Coop. Kinda the go for the local guy type of thing. As I said before, he does great machining, I know it from what I've read. I have done no clutching yet. So if other guys say I am wrong, well, they're probably right. Lol.
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1,399 Posts
Every time i ride the grizzly I think, " wow, love these slugs" They really made the grizzly's clutch so positive feeling off idle. I engages below 1800 rpm accornig to cheap ebay RPM gauge. My grizzly idles at 1640rpm according to this gauge so I don't know if that's right or how accurate the gauge is.. Anyway... point is, I got rid of all that "Riding the clutch" feeling and slow crawling is very nice now.
I did have dissapointment with the Machined sheave. I had 1.5mm of shims before the sheave and I had about 2.75-2.8:1 belt ratio. I would hit the limiter at 60mph in high and 38mph in low. With the sheave I only had 2.8:1 ratio so I was not happy. I had 3:1 on my old 2009 grizzly so I expected the same. I have since added 1mm of shim to the new sheave and I have better than 2.9:1 ratio. I top out at 76mph in high.. ((( NOT DRIVING,, This is spinning on ice. I do not have the power nor do many grizzlys to pull those speeds))) and 42mph in Low. I gained so much top end back and my cruising RPM is lower.
What I did get that I did NOT like was less mid range power. the 18 gram weights are some sort of slick coated weight and the reduced friction allowed my machine to gear up too quickly,, I have since switched to 16 gram weights but I still don't feel I have the punch I had stock.. It could also be the increased top end ratio allowing lower RPM at speeds making me feel its weight related.. Im satisfied for now, but would like to try 14gram weights to see.. Problem is. the slick weights from hunterworks are $105 CAD by the time I get them here to me in Canada.
I did have dissapointment with the Machined sheave. I had 1.5mm of shims before the sheave and I had about 2.75-2.8:1 belt ratio. I would hit the limiter at 60mph in high and 38mph in low. With the sheave I only had 2.8:1 ratio so I was not happy. I had 3:1 on my old 2009 grizzly so I expected the same. I have since added 1mm of shim to the new sheave and I have better than 2.9:1 ratio. I top out at 76mph in high.. ((( NOT DRIVING,, This is spinning on ice. I do not have the power nor do many grizzlys to pull those speeds))) and 42mph in Low. I gained so much top end back and my cruising RPM is lower.
What I did get that I did NOT like was less mid range power. the 18 gram weights are some sort of slick coated weight and the reduced friction allowed my machine to gear up too quickly,, I have since switched to 16 gram weights but I still don't feel I have the punch I had stock.. It could also be the increased top end ratio allowing lower RPM at speeds making me feel its weight related.. Im satisfied for now, but would like to try 14gram weights to see.. Problem is. the slick weights from hunterworks are $105 CAD by the time I get them here to me in Canada.
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