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My 660 is bored to 686 and I'm running 25" big horns. The only way my 140 lbs can wheelie this thing is standing on the rack. I miss wheelies now that I have a storage box. Suggestions on shim size? 1,1.5?
 

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I can put 2.5 mm's in mine, but some max. out at 2.mm's. Be careful.
 

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Get the belt start off ratio as low as possible, maybe a purple EPI secondary spring, and maybe even some EPI wet clutch springs to increase your stall engagement rpm?
Or here is a cheap trick, back the rear shock preload to the softest position, and stiffen the front preload.lol! It works!
Let me know if I can help you out!
Ridway has a lot of seat time on this machine, and has his dialed in! But I don't know if he is into wheelies!! :icon_ goofy:
Thanks
Coop45
 

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Get the belt start off ratio as low as possible, maybe a purple EPI secondary spring, and maybe even some EPI wet clutch springs to increase your stall engagement rpm?
Or here is a cheap trick, back the rear shock preload to the softest position, and stiffen the front preload.lol! It works!
Let me know if I can help you out!
Ridway has a lot of seat time on this machine, and has his dialed in! But I don't know if he is into wheelies!! :icon_ goofy:
Thanks
Coop45
:icon_ laughup:

I don't ride where long wheelies can be done, but I didn't raise the pulley ratio for that either. I did it for the improved throttle control/response in the tough stuff while going slow with the engine at low R.P.M. producing low torque. Then the rest of the mods are for mpg and max. speed.
I get into situations that when I crack the throttle I want the grizz to turn the tires, and all 4 when needed. There is an additional benefit that when I pin the throttle this thing hauls ass. It will roll back on the rear axles when there is enough traction, which smooths out the ride too.
I ride at elevation with a winch and stuff on the front rack most of the time and it rotate fine. I have to leave the shocks turned up so I turned up the ratio to 3.5 to 1. The few times I get to Moab, this thing is sweet.


Here's a few more pictures in some of the situations that throttle response is important. All are in high gear except the one with my hand on the shifter.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/albums/72157660298133873
 

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My suggestion is to learn how to wheelie properly. My 700 could lift the front end up with ease with 27's and no clutch work. I have seen so many people tell me they need mods to wheelie, that their machine just can't pull the fort end up. Low and behold I take it for a ride and wheelie with ease. It's more about technique then it is power
 

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Trev is right. Whelies on a grizzly are more about technique. These things won't power wheelie unless modded but that does not mean they will not wheelie. The 550 will even wheelie easily if you know how.

Depending on clutching that has been done the wheelie can sometimes be easier in high range than low range.
 

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The Ridgway pics in the rock scree fields pulling a wheelie, or all wheels off the ground, just remember that is at +13,000 feet, my Grizz would not even spin a tire at that elevation and top speed was 20mph.

We may have went up one of those trails back in September, to have that much power at that altitude is beyond amazing.

Jim, you better be working on that bad boy for Moab!
 

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This might just be me, but standing on the rack doesn't count to me. Shim & purple spring will make it easier but if you stand up, bump the throttle (from a dead stop) and when the front end dives down punch it and set down as far back as possible with all your dead weight. When you get the timing right it will come up. The balance point is pretty far back, but you won't slide off with your box there so dont be skiddish. I scrape my rack from time to time, no big deal.
 
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