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Discussion Starter #1
I know this is probably a simple question but is there anything special about YAMALUBE??? I thought I could jut run quality synthetic 10w 30 but read someones post talking about using YAMALUBE because of wet clutch?? Will keep researching but if anyone has the low down I'd appreciate it.

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Synthetic I believe, is suppose to be hard on the clutch. But I am known to be wrong. I use conventional 10-30 in my 660. Don't know why you couldn't use it in your 700. But I will let the guys like @dezz and @reogem give you full sets of answers.
 

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I know there has been a lot said about "what oil to use" in a lot of the forums I've read. Everything Ive read said make sure oil you use is compatible with wet clutch........Can you elaborate on that a little. I have a 2007 700 and don't mind putting good products in but don't want to be stuck buying YAMALUBE which is probably made for Yamaha by who knows. So you are using just regular old 10w30 motor oil in your machine??

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I believe wet clutch compatible means that it does not cause the friction surfaces to become to slick and now grab, or not lubricate it well. But my wet clutch knowledge is extremely minimal. I really am hoping some of these other guys chime in. Yes, I use regular old oil. That is what my owner's manual recommends.
 

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I know there are many oils that will work fine but for me I only change my oil twice a year so Yamalube is cheap insurance to know I have the oil that's needed for the wet clutch. I've been running it for years with no problems . it's one less thing to worry about for me.
 

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There is nothing special about Yamalube. It's just a NON Energy Conserving, basic engine oil.

Friction Modifiers cause wet clutch slippage. Any oil that has Friction Modifiers means it is "Energy Conserving" rated. Most automotive engine oils from 10w30 and lighter are Energy Conserving rated and cannot be used in our ATV's.

Contrary to what many believe, synthetic oil does NOT cause wet clutch slippage. Remember, you can buy synthetic Yamalube ATV and motorcycle oil.

Rotella T6 engine oil is a good quality synthetic engine oil that can be used in your ATV. It is also highly regarded and used by this forums members.....BUT not all T6 can be used. I'm the last year or so there is a new formula available, and it is Energy Conserving rated, which means it has friction modifiers added and will cause wet clutch slippage. You got to know what to look for on the bottle.

There is many oils that can be used in our ATV's that are not Yamalube. You just got to know what to look for on the bottle. Or you can just purchase ATV specific oil like Castro, Mystic, Bel Ray, etc....

The best advice I can give is if you do not know what to look for on a bottle of oil, then only use a ATV specific engine oil.

DO NOT use Polaris or Can Am branded engines oils in your Yamaha. Those oils have friction modifiers added and will cause slippage. Both Polaris and Can Am do not have wet clutches, and their factory oils are Energy Conserving rated.
 

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It is my understanding that as long as it meets the requirements for JASO MA, then it is fine to use in wet clutch applications. Synthetic or conventional should have no effect. JASO MA will be on the bottle.
 

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DO NOT use Polaris or Can Am branded engines oils in your Yamaha. Those oils have friction modifiers added and will cause slippage. Both Polaris and Can Am do not have wet clutches, and their factory oils are Energy Conserving rated.
As I started reading I thought " Here it comes, A Dig at me for messing up and running Canam oil." Haha,,,

It caused me all sorts of problem.. Plumes of smoke, Stuck rings and a week of pulling my hair out worrying about valve guides and worn heads.

Got it all sorted by using combustion cleaner and a fresh oil change back to Amsoil Synthetic. 10w40 ATV/UTV oil.

Smoking problem 100% gone.
 

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It is my understanding that as long as it meets the requirements for JASO MA, then it is fine to use in wet clutch applications. Synthetic or conventional should have no effect. JASO MA will be on the bottle.
This is correct.
I use Rotella T4 in all of my machines. Here is a interesting paper by Amsoil.
Wet-Clutch Operation andLubrication
 
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I Use, VALVOLINE™ 4T STROKE FULL SYNTHETIC MOTORCYCLE OIL in all of my ATV's.
 
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The tech article from Amsoil will not open for me.
Does it say Yes use it, or No don’t use it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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The tech article from Amsoil will not open for me.
Does it say Yes use it, or No don’t use it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
It says yes, use it. Designed specificly for 4 stroke wet clutch atv's.
 
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@reogem, that's a great tech paper. It's why I run the Amsoil 0-40 synthetic wet clutch compatible. Bike loves it. It's worth the money.
@reogem, that Rotella is good stuff. Vast majority of the lobster fishers here use the diesel version of Rotella in their boat engines. Mind you, many of these boats now are in the 42ft to 50 ft range, with 750 HP up to 1600 HP high tech, computer controlled diesels that cost anywhere from $80,000 to $150,000 just for the engine alone. They need the best oil they can get to protect that investment.
 

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Synthetic or dino is a debate for individual preference in grizzlys engines, but your question was related to wet clutch compatible.
X-3 on JASO MA for wet clutch machines. I use Rotella T-4 and this rating is listed on the back of the bottle. (Some oil bottles also picture an A.T.V. for compatibility.)
 

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Yep, the intent of the paper I posted was about wet clutch oil classifications. Not about sin v dino. It just happened to have been released by Amsoil.

T4 is dino with JASO-MA and above classification.
 

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Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W40W oil Advanced full synthetic, is what I am going to use, it says on the front "Wet Clutch Primary" and on the back states "JASO MA" , I have used Mobil 1 synthetic oil since 1979, tried it first in a Toyota Truck after 14 years and 150,000 miles I decided to sell it, the valve cover was leaking some oil, so I decided to change the gasket, I was amazed when I pulled the valve cover off, no sludge or tarnish, just glistening metal, like it was new. Made a firm believer out of me.
My latest 4 wheeler is a Yamaha Grizzly 700 EPS SE. I sold my 2002 Honda Foreman to buy this Yamaha. I still have my 1999 Kawasaki Bayou 220(1st), I let that be my daughter's 4 wheeler. This Yamaha really has more power than the Honda Foreman, still breaking the Yamaha in per manual suggestions. The Mechanic at the dealership I purchased it from, said the 1st maintenance is important, he said they change spark plug, adjust valves, change oil and filter, ect... So I may let them do the 1st maintenance, then I will do the following maintenance, and after a few hours, buy a Yamaha oil filter and put in the Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W40W oil.
marcus40
 
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I have the T6 Rotella ready for the next oil change in the 5W40 variety.The JASO DH-2, MA it's on the bottle that's all I looked for when I bought the oil. I hope it's going to help with cold weather starts, right now my bike kinda struggles when bellow 20 - with the original Yamalube 10W40.

Unrelated note:

that Rotella is good stuff. Vast majority of the lobster fishers here use the diesel version of Rotella in their boat engines. Mind you, many of these boats now are in the 42ft to 50 ft range, with 750 HP up to 1600 HP high tech, computer controlled diesels that cost anywhere from $80,000 to $150,000 just for the engine alone. They need the best oil they can get to protect that investment.
Wow! ...this almost explains the $50 they charged me for a lobster tail at a local eatery...:|
 

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@Rollin, nope, that's not why! The fishermen still get between $3.50 and $5.00 per pound on average, depending on season. It's about the same price they have been getting for the last 30 years or so. The catch rate in Maine has skyrocketed, even with limiting entry into the field and limiting the number of traps allowed. It's common in the summer when the shedders come inshore for one boat to haul in over 2000 lbs a DAY! It's the lobster dealers, cost of transportation and refrigeration that drive the price way to to the consumer. Keep buying them, us marine machine shop guys need the business, LOL!
 

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All we need is an oil wet clutch approved, JASO MA (1 or 2), the viscosity or dino vs. syn. is totally up to you!!


Personally I use my Grizz ALOT it even doubles as a snowmobile in winter (I run Commander XTRs) So in the winter I run 0w-40 full synthetic. Once summer rolls around, off comes the tracks and in goes 10w-40 or 5w-30 syn or dino I really don't care...............winter protection is my big concern!


Yamalube or off brand, oil is oil! If memory serves Citco makes Yamalube now..................in 5 months it may be Exxon or Mobil even Valvoline, a company that meets Yamaha's criteria and cost, the ALMIGHTY dollar!
 
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