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Discussion Starter #1
My sons 700 grizzly has a very hard start everytime and I'm out of options besides blowing it up. It runs fine after it starts and it will always fire up but it usually cranks a long time,spits and pops out of exhaust before starting. Cold sometimes starts a little better but pretty much the same cold or hot. Things we've done.

Compression "completely new engine"
Checked all electrical wiring
Stator checked
Fuel pressure
Valves many times
Swap computer with known good one
Swap throttle body "complete"
New battery
Checked tps
New coil and wire and plug
( All stock except it does have a warrior riser snorkel kit and k& n air filter)
Thanks for any help
 

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What year is this, anyone been inside the pod messing with fuel settings? Did it just start doing this out of the blue or did something happen and its been acting up since?...
 

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Well...it starts so I suggest a fuel delivery problem.
Are the valves adjusted to the wide side of the lash range?
Will it start fast using ether?
 

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My sons 700 grizzly has a very hard start everytime and I'm out of options besides blowing it up. It runs fine after it starts and it will always fire up but it usually cranks a long time,spits and pops out of exhaust before starting. Cold sometimes starts a little better but pretty much the same cold or hot. Things we've done.

Compression "completely new engine"
Checked all electrical wiring
Stator checked
Fuel pressure
Valves many times
Swap computer with known good one
Swap throttle body "complete"
New battery
Checked tps
New coil and wire and plug
( All stock except it does have a warrior riser snorkel kit and k& n air filter)
Thanks for any help
What do you mean completely new engine? Bought a new or backyard rebuilt or reman.? If rebuild what do you know about the rebuilder?
Checked the valve timing?

Starts a little better cold. Checked the air temperature sensor?
Have you run it through the DIAG tests?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What year is this, anyone been inside the pod messing with fuel settings? Did it just start doing this out of the blue or did something happen and its been acting up since?...
Yes sorry should have posted year. It's a 2011. I have messed with pod mod but only because of this problem but it hasn't helped any either way. I have totally built the entire engine top to bottom everything is new. Ive rebuilt all types of engine for 25 years. It is built right. I have set the intake valves repeatedly on .005. I keep wandering if its them still. I also have considered but have not replaced the temp sender. I have the factory air filter on the way to try also
 

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Why does 10 and 18 come to my mind on the gap settings, I watched a video on this. .005?
 

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Why does 10 and 18 come to my mind on the gap settings, I watched a video on this. .005?
Thinking MM's? The spec's are intake .09-.13mm. 13mm=.005118"
I set my 700 intakes at .11-.12 mm (.00433-.00472") I feel that I may not be able to set them at exactly at .13mm
The setting used to be be on a label under the 700 and 450 seat. Haven't looked on our newer machines


The air temperature sensor detects the ambient temperature. If it is reading that the temperature is lower. The ECU will dump more fuel in on start.
 

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i have 2 - 550 and a 700, they are 2009. I you just turn on the key and crank them they will do like your saying. If i turn the key on, open the throttle and close it, then crank them they start right up. Right or wrong, that works to start them.
 
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