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Discussion Starter #1
Hi I just got a 97 kodiak 400 4x4 that I picked up for 120 bucks. If you jump it it fires right up and runs really good but when you put it in gear and go it only has first gear 2-5 is like there is nothing there. You shift and it feels like it goes in gear but then there's nothing there. I'm new to 4 wheelers and hoping someone can point me in the right direction.
 

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How positive does first gear engage? Is there any slippage detected? What about reverse?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
First kicks in good and no slipping at all. And as for the reverse I had to undo the brake safety due to it being stuck but it goes in fine only
 

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I'm not too familiar with that era Kodiak, but the tranny looks very similar to a lot of the semi-auto utility Honda's. So how do you get it to operate in reverse? Put foot shifter in N and then sub-transmission in 'R'?
 

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Need to know what model of transmission you have. Is it the dual range (hi and lo) or the simple 5-speed only? Both were available in 1997.
 

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Need to know what model of transmission you have. Is it the dual range (hi and lo) or the simple 5-speed only? Both were available in 1997.
In the US, multiple OEM parts websites only show the one with H-L-R being available in 1997.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Not sure on the model but it has the high, low, and reverse but it also has the gear shift on the left side with the shift pattern for n-5
 

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Not sure on the model but it has the high, low, and reverse but it also has the gear shift on the left side with the shift pattern for n-5
Just for sanity, check to make sure the foot shift lever isn't bent or interfering with anything that could prevent it from moving through its full stroke.

The great part about semi-automatic trannies is how reliable they are. They downside to them is that when something goes wrong, it's internal and that leaves you to removing the whole engine and splitting the cases.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The shift lever isn't bent I had just checked that a bit ago. I had a guy from work tell me to pull the right side cover and check everything in there. Dont really know what its supposed to look like but I noticed that the is some kind of adjustment there it's just a bolt with a slot and a tap to lock it in place does anyone know what this is for
 

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The shift lever isn't bent I had just checked that a bit ago. I had a guy from work tell me to pull the right side cover and check everything in there. Dont really know what its supposed to look like but I noticed that the is some kind of adjustment there it's just a bolt with a slot and a tap to lock it in place does anyone know what this is for
That adjustment bolt is for gear shift free play on the clutch. You can try adjusting it to see if it makes a difference, but I am doubtful that it will help any. Once those are set during manufacturing, you just never have to touch it again.

And wheelsquad is 100% correct. If the problem is internal, your looking at having to completely pulling the engine and splitting the cases to inspect it and fix it.
 

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In the US, multiple OEM parts websites only show the one with H-L-R being available in 1997.
I keep forgetting about the difference in the USA and Canadian markets. Thanks for setting that straight.
 

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That adjustment bolt is for gear shift free play on the clutch. You can try adjusting it to see if it makes a difference, but I am doubtful that it will help any. Once those are set during manufacturing, you just never have to touch it again.

And wheelsquad is 100% correct. If the problem is internal, your looking at having to completely pulling the engine and splitting the cases to inspect it and fix it.
dezz you can probably set me straight on this if I'm wrong, but I suppose there is a slight chance that he could pull the right side covers and clutch assemblies without splitting the case and see if there is any issue with how the far side of #8 is engaging with the drum, #1?

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/atv/1997/kodiak-4wd-yfm400fwj/shift-cam-shift-fork

I'm thinking that's unlikely and most potential issues will be in the shift forks or drive and driven shafts in the transmission, between the cases. But pulling the right covers would have to be done before splitting the cases anyway?
 

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If I pull the right cover off what would I be looking at/for
I could try to describe through parts diagrams and such, but your best bet will be to download a service manual. tradebit.com looks like they have one. You want the factory service manual.

Also found this. You wouldn't need to have motor removed yet though. FF to 15:00 is where he takes off the right side cover. Then at about 17'ish minutes he pulls out the shift shaft and mechanism out. But you can also check where the shift shaft mechanism engages the shift drum. That should be looked over closely and he talks about it in vid 3/3 too.

Where are you located?

 

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4:25 on video 3/3 he mentions a common problem with the shift drum on these


Edit: he also talks about the shift drum breaking problem again at 13:45 after he splits the cases. Hopefully that isn't your problem...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I've pulled the right side cover and I'm not real sure on what I'm looking at but positve note is there no metal flakes in the oil. I see the clutch basket but not sure what the other drum part is but the outside is colored like its had a lot of heat.
 

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I've pulled the right side cover and I'm not real sure on what I'm looking at but positve note is there no metal flakes in the oil. I see the clutch basket but not sure what the other drum part is but the outside is colored like its had a lot of heat.
Are you able to post up some pics? Come at it from a few different angles.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
This is all I have at the moment but will take more tomorrow afternoon. I'm also going to see if I can get my hands on a snake cam and see if I can check everything out in the case to try and keep from splitting the case and nothing be wrong in there
 

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I know I am late to the party here, but that wet clutch drum should not be burned like that. That needs to be replaced....and i think it is the source of your problem.

I believe your wet clutch is completely shot and worn out. In first gear, the gearing is low enough so the ATV is able to move with the little friction your wet clutch has. But anything out of first gear, the gearing is to high and the forces required to move is higher than the holding ability of the what is left of the wet clutch friction material.

Pull the wet clutch and inspect the shoes. From the pictures, you already know that wet clutch drum is done. I bet the wet clutch shoes will be metal on metal, and you will need wet clutch shoes and drum.
 
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