[brando040]

99 grizzly 600. Replaced the starter solenoid with new yamaha solenoid. and bike ran fine for about a month. Now its doing the same thing again.Hit start button and nothing. not even a click. the starter cut off realy under the rear seat and fender used to click. Got a new one of those and it tried to fire one time and now nothing. If i just the solenoid it fires right up. Do I have another bad solenoid? This thing is making me pull my hair out. one min its fine and the next it isnt. Cleaned the wires on the start switch assy also. whats next?

 

[Patroller]

One way to find out is to hot wire the solenoid directly to the battery with a set of jumper cables, if it works then it's somewhere (wiring) before the solenoid

 

[brando040]

One way to find out is to hot wire the solenoid directly to the battery with a set of jumper cables, if it works then it's somewhere (wiring) before the solenoid

ive done that esentially by jumping the solenoid itself and it does start. Ive tested the solenoid also and it tested out fine. so i agree it has to be somewhere between the start button and the solenoid. I have power at the solenoid plug also.

 

[brando040]

One way to find out is to hot wire the solenoid directly to the battery with a set of jumper cables, if it works then it's somewhere (wiring) before the solenoid

Everything is coming back to a bad starter relay. Guess I’ll try replacing that one more time. I’m about ready to just install a momentary switch in between the solenoid and bypass everything all together.

 

[brando040]

How can I bypass the starter cutoff relay?

 

[reogem]

You may want to disassemble the switch assembly to clean the contacts on the start button and the kill switch.
Also have you cleaned the battery connections and load tested the battery.

 

[brando040]

I’ve already done all that

 

[reogem]

Apologies, only checking the wires was indicated.
The solenoid can be by-passed with a battery disconnect type switch. Installed just the same as temporarily shorting out the solenoid. Not really recommended.

 

[brando040]

Right. Was considering that. I have power to the switch. To the solenoid. Don’t mKe sense. Is there a way to eliminate the starter cut off relay? I got a new one but it’s just the cheaply one not oem. Didn’t want to spend $65 if that wasn’t the issue. So even new it is probably just not being oem

 

[Patroller]

You can test most relays, not difficult. Most have markings on top or underneath such as 85, 86, 87, 87a and 30. If you take the relay an put 12V across 86+ and 85-, the relay should click. Just about any 4 or 5 pin relay should work, I have an old one for extra truck lights, 40 amp, 12 volt and it works like that. you said you have power to the switch (push button on the handlebar?), and if 85 is grounded, then the relay should click. If you check with meter at 30 and and touch to ground when the button is pushed (clicks) it should show. Good luck, don't pull hair.

 

[brando040]

It used to click now it does nothing just a little red light on the handlebars will blink when the button is pushed. It made a loud whistle like sound when I tried to start it last time and after that, it hasn’t done it again since even replacing the cut off switch, is it possible I could still have a bad starter even though it will crank by jumping the solenoid? I wouldn’t think so, but I have seen stranger things.

 

[brando040]

tested both relays with battery and they both click when power is added to them they do not click on the machine. If perhaps the solenoid was indeed bad "again" the relay would not be getting power to click correct?

 

[Patroller]

It used to click now it does nothing just a little red light on the handlebars will blink when the button is pushed. It made a loud whistle like sound when I tried to start it last time and after that, it hasn’t done it again since even replacing the cut off switch, is it possible I could still have a bad starter even though it will crank by jumping the solenoid? I wouldn’t think so, but I have seen stranger things.

No don't think the starter is bad when it works if you jump the solenoid, hopefully eliminates that.

 

[Patroller]

tested both relays with battery and they both click when power is added to them they do not click on the machine. If perhaps the solenoid was indeed bad "again" the relay would not be getting power to click correct?

Relays tested ok, excellent. Therefore, when installed on the ATV no power to the relay, I would lean hard to believe it's somewhere in the wiring between the ignition and relay. Power goes from battery through ignition to starter button to solenoid which activates starter internally. The big wire that goes from battery to solenoid/starter only gets "hot" when the relay activates the solenoid Also a possibility that the ground from the relay is no good on the ATV. It may show ok on the meter but when power is applied it can't handle it to activate the relay. Hang in there, sooner or later..

 

[brando040]

if i put direct power to the blue and white wire coming from the solenoid to the relay and hit the start button it fires right up with the start button?

 

[Patroller]

Looking at the repair manual for yours, a bit different than mine. I didn't realise the starter cut off relay is like a safety switch which can make a difference. It only allows starting in neutral or with rear brake handle pulled. I couldn't find the blu/wt wire in the diagram.Starting Circuit Operation - Yamaha EFM600 GRIZZLY Service Manual [Page 310]

 

[brando040]

Looking at the repair manual for yours, a bit different than mine. I didn't realise the starter cut off relay is like a safety switch which can make a difference. It only allows starting in neutral or with rear brake handle pulled. I couldn't find the blu/wt wire in the diagram.Starting Circuit Operation - Yamaha EFM600 GRIZZLY Service Manual [Page 310]

the blue white wire goes from the starter relay plug to the starter relay cutt off switch. I have the blue wire has power at both relays with or without the start button pressed. If i run a jumper from the blue wire(which is already powered) to the blue white wire it will start up, however it will try to turn over with or without the key on. when i disconnect that wire the red oil light will turn on and off when i hit the starter button. something tells me im not getting power from the switch button to the solenoid perhaps??? i hate electrical grimlims

 

[Patroller]

Oh boy, I can visualize a Schwarzzenegger tumor coming on. You may have a good point about the key not making a difference. Sometimes a bad ground will also cause feedback such as on trailer lights that light up when not actually turned on, power trying to find another way. God I wish you luck in this one.

 

[thorne]

Before you buy a new starter relay, power the one you have direct to test it, and I don't mean by jumping across the exposed contacts. Run a hot to L/W pin (blue/white.. Yamaha uses L for blue because B is used for black) and ground to the R/W (red/white) pin. This will activate the solonoid, and therefore the starter, if it's working.
To diagnose the starter circuit cut-off relay, remove the relay from the connector, connect line from battery + to the pin Br (brown) wire goes to, and battery - to the pin Y/B (yellow/black) wire goes to. You should get a click. Using your multi-meter, check for continuity between the L/W pin and the Br (brown pin). If you have continuity, it works.
Refer to this image. I'll try to write up an explanation of the starter circuit and how to diagnose it, and get it to you by tomorrow morning. Hang in there.

 

[brando040]

awesome. thank you