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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
The shoes look fine, the even with the metal is because the shoe(s) are retracted.
Tell us more about the one-way, you counted the ratio so I assumed the primary turned correctly by hand...counter clockwise to count, and locked to the crank going clockwise.
Did you turn the primary clockwise to count?
No, I did not turn the primary clockwise to count. The one way turns properly (I set it in there for the pics and re-installed properly to check).

With regard to checking the one way bearing, (ref. 4-53 in the service manual) maybe I am checking this incorrectly, but if I install the one way bearing with the arrow to the clutch housing side (as a poster mentioned above that I had it in backwards), turning clockwise engages the clutch carrier and clutch housing and turning counterclockwise allows the clutch carrier assembly to turn freely (which appears backwards from what the service manual states it should do).

So is this just an indication that this one way bearing is actually installed properly as originally shown in my pictures in earlier post (arrow/green dot facing outward), or is it indicative a problem with the one way bearing??

Further, if the clutch looks fine, that is actually bad news because it means I still do not know why I cannot get the bike above 20 in gear. For the record, I have checked all the 4WD relays/diff lock electrical components and all work properly.
 

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We didn't know you had the one way out, then back in for the pictures. If it is installed backwards the primary doesn't turn freely like it should, that's why I asked.
Getting back to your problem I didn't see you telling how the engine r.p.m.'s go high without the bike gaining speed. Is the engine running well, or stuttering at 20 m.p.h.?
 
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Discussion Starter #23
We didn't know you had the one way out, then back in for the pictures. If it is installed backwards the primary doesn't turn freely like it should, that's why I asked.
Getting back to your problem I didn't see you telling how the engine r.p.m.'s go high without the bike gaining speed. Is the engine running well, or stuttering at 20 m.p.h.?
Engine runs fine, no sputtering in gear. In neutral, it revs up fine as well. After my primary sheave service and belt replacement, I left the cover off and started the engine. After it warmed up a bit, I put it in neutral and throttled it to see what the belt did under no load. The primary and secondary sheaves operated as expected (The belt climbed the primary and dropped on the secondary). Next, I ran it down the street with the cover off and observed the belt. Neither the sheaves nor the belt move from starting position, regardless of the amount of throttle applied. Speed maxes around 20 on flat ground.
 

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Engine runs fine, I ran it down the street with the cover off and observed the belt. Neither the sheaves nor the belt move from starting position, regardless of the amount of throttle applied. Speed maxes around 20 on flat ground.
There is a rev limiter that cuts in about 20 m.p.h., that's why I asked.
The starting ratio is correct for a stock machine, and it (the engine) should be screaming around 5000 r.p.m.'s at 20 m.p.h. if the weights are not moving and the pulleys cycling.
I know you said the pulley cycle when the bike is not moving, are the sliders good?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
There is a rev limiter that cuts in about 20 m.p.h., that's why I asked.
The starting ratio is correct for a stock machine, and it (the engine) should be screaming around 5000 r.p.m.'s at 20 m.p.h. if the weights are not moving and the pulleys cycling.
I know you said the pulley cycle when the bike is not moving, are the sliders good?
Visual inspection did not show anything obvious on the sliders. Is there something I should be looking for specifically? It did not appear to be "screaming", but is is definitely running high r.p.m.'s at 20 m.p.h. If the sliders work in neutral, is there a reason they would not work under load?
 

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I'm trying to figure this out, I haven't heard of this with good parts and everything in their place.
The sheave moves through the cam plate with the sliders as a lubricant preventing metal to metal binding. Its like there is a binding or block for the sheave to move.
And it should cycle in the garage or on the street.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I'm trying to figure this out, I haven't heard of this with good parts and everything in their place.
The sheave moves through the cam plate with the sliders as a lubricant preventing metal to metal binding. Its like there is a binding or block for the sheave to move.
And it should cycle in the garage or on the street.
Understood. I am lost at this point and if you guys can't figure it out I am REALLY worried. If it cycles in neutral when throttled, I cannot understand why it will not cycle when in gear. I really don't want to just start throwing parts at it...lol. However, I think I am going to put in a new clutch carrier assembly since it is already opened up and it is 11 years old. Other than that, I really don't know what to do.
 

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You have a worn part I bet, we haven't seen the sheaves yet or a video in the garage or on the road.
And I don't think its time to start buying parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
You have a worn part I bet, we haven't seen the sheaves yet or a video in the garage or on the road.
And I don't think its time to start buying parts.
I will get pictures of the primary sheaves. By the way...I was so focused on the clutch as the issue that I forgot to tell you I noticed when I took the sheaves off again to remove the clutch that there is a wear mark on both primary sheaves (fixed and sliding) where the belt starts. It is not deep, but you can feel it when you run a finger over it. I will get the pictures by tomorrow at the latest.

Unfortunately, I cannot take any video until I reassemble.

Don't give up on me yet!!

LT
 

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No hurry, and the ridge/hump thing is not big deal.
Oh, why did you start this new belt/service project anyway?
 

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Discussion Starter #31
No hurry, and the ridge/hump thing is not big deal.
Oh, why did you start this new belt/service project anyway?
When I pulled it out to run it (it did sit for a few months), I noticed the speed/power loss, so I started investigating. I began with the CVT belt, given the age of the machine and when that did not work I moved on to more invasive procedures.
 

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OK....
Did you do a roll-out to confirm the new belt is the same length as the old belt?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
OK....
Did you do a roll-out to confirm the new belt is the same length as the old belt?
No, but I can do that tomorrow as well. I will report findings and post pictures of the sheaves.

Thanks again! Sorry for the delayed response...kids ended up having friends over and I got side tracked.

LT
 

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No, I did not turn the primary clockwise to count. The one way turns properly (I set it in there for the pics and re-installed properly to check).

With regard to checking the one way bearing, (ref. 4-53 in the service manual) maybe I am checking this incorrectly, but if I install the one way bearing with the arrow to the clutch housing side (as a poster mentioned above that I had it in backwards), turning clockwise engages the clutch carrier and clutch housing and turning counterclockwise allows the clutch carrier assembly to turn freely (which appears backwards from what the service manual states it should do).

So is this just an indication that this one way bearing is actually installed properly as originally shown in my pictures in earlier post (arrow/green dot facing outward), or is it indicative a problem with the one way bearing??

Further, if the clutch looks fine, that is actually bad news because it means I still do not know why I cannot get the bike above 20 in gear. For the record, I have checked all the 4WD relays/diff lock electrical components and all work properly.
The best way for you to install the one way is to put it on the wet clutch with the green dot and arrow facing you. If you can not see the dot and arrow it is installed wrong.
The manual has confuse many people. Facing out in the manual means facing out away from the engine.
Hae a look here>>>One way info
 
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Thinking....check the spines on/in the fixed sheave.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Here is a pic of the spines on the fixed primary sheave. There are some cracks on the surface (I do not know cause or if those cracks are a problem), but no spines are broken/missing that I can see. Also, I went ahead and removed the secondary sheave and ordered a 45mm socket so I can disassemble and service the secondary while everything else is pending.

Thanks for sticking with me on this.
98020
 

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Discussion Starter #38
The best way for you to install the one way is to put it on the wet clutch with the green dot and arrow facing you. If you can not see the dot and arrow it is installed wrong.
The manual has confuse many people. Facing out in the manual means facing out away from the engine.
Hae a look here>>>One way info
That was really confusing, but I checked out your link and I found some other videos...I think I am clear now. I was holding the wrong part and looking at it from the wrong direction when testing the one way. Thanks for the guidance!

LT
 

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With your machine just install the one way on the wet clutch with the green dot visible.
Starting 2013 Yamaha added the ring seal. With this new part you must install the OW in the clutch housing with the green dot NOT visible then install the ring seal.
Installed backwards could possible restriction speed and/or stall the engine but it would most likely make a horrible noise.

Your fix sheave spline looks fine. Those are not cracks. It is normal phenomenon in casting called veining.
I don't feel that the problem is with the CVT.
When riding and maxing out at 20 mph or so does it sound like the engine is reving very high or kind normal for that speed? Are you positive the transmission is in High?
 
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Discussion Starter #40
With your machine just install the one way on the wet clutch with the green dot visible.
Starting 2013 Yamaha added the ring seal. With this new part you must install the OW in the clutch housing with the green dot NOT visible then install the ring seal.
Installed backwards could possible restriction speed and/or stall the engine but it would most likely make a horrible noise.

Your fix sheave spline looks fine. Those are not cracks. It is normal phenomenon in casting called veining.
I don't feel that the problem is with the CVT.
When riding and maxing out at 20 mph or so does it sound like the engine is reving very high or kind normal for that speed? Are you positive the transmission is in High?
I do not have a way to scientifically measure RPM's, however, from my time riding it, based on the pitch of the engine, it sure "sounds" like I should be moving faster with the throttle fully depressed. Yes, it is in high, as I have tried it in both gear positions. It does sound like it will rev higher in neutral than when I am in gear, but I am not sure if that is because of vantage point. After more searching and reading, I thought carb, but I believe that I would have sputtering/killing/hesitation/backfiring if that were the case and I do not have any of those things. I also thought electrical, but I do not think I am hitting any sort of rev limiter( I never hit any sort of hesitation or RPM drop) and I have tested the 4wd/diff lock switches (I can hear them engage/disengage). I still cannot understand why the CVT operates properly in neutral, but not in gear.
 
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