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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, I hope I can get some help here. I have a 02 grizzly 660 and I’m having trouble with it. I was plowing with it a couple of weeks ago and it just stopped moving unless I gave it full throttle, then it would barely crawl. It was a very cold day that day so I thought that that had something to do with it. I left it sitting that night and came back the next day and nothing. From what I read I thought maybe my belt got wet but I opened the cover on it and everything was dry other than there was some belt shavings inside around the cage. I replaced the belt today thinking that it would solve my problems but it still will not budge. I’d appreciate any help. Thank you
 

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Sounds like a slipping wet clutch, either from being worn out, bad oil, or another issue. Did you happen to change the oil recently? If so, what kind of oil did you use?
 

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Thanks for answering. I have not changed the oil recently. I did check the level today and it was low so I put some in it. The clutch operates like it should from a visual inspection. I jacked up the rear end and the tires spun and the primary engaged like it was supposed to but when it’s on the ground nothing. Do you think if I change the oil that it would make a difference?
 

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Your wet clutch is worn out. Changing the oil is not going to fix that.
Your belt clutches are not the same as the wet clutch. The wet clutch is inside the engine cases, and it drives the primary belt clutch.
Luckily for the 660, you can purchase just the clutch blocks rather than the whole assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the info! Any recommendations on where I should purchase them? I saw that I can order a whole new wet clutch for $69 but that’s probably aftermarket junk right?
 

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I suggest you find out for sure what is wrong before looking for parts.
First of all, the things the belt rides on are pulleys, not clutches and the front pulley is known as the primary or driving pulley. Did you try turning that pulley clockwise by hand, to see if the engine wants to turn over?
 

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Yes, Ridgeway is right. Correct me if wrong, because I am not an expert like some of the other guys on here but the whole assembly with the belt is one clutch (CVT) then there is the wet clutch assembly. This combo allows you to sit still in gear. The pulleys (still pulleys, just technical here) are actually called shives in this case because the halves can move closer together and further apart according to speed and pressure. That's kinda clutch 101 right guys? Hope you get it all figured out.
 

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Hey...Mrcharlesarthur...Welcome to GC from Wisconsin.

Thanks for answering. I have not changed the oil recently. I did check the level today and it was low so I put some in it. The clutch operates like it should from a visual inspection. I jacked up the rear end and the tires spun and the primary engaged like it was supposed to but when it’s on the ground nothing. Do you think if I change the oil that it would make a difference?
It does sound like it maybe a wetclutch..But..maybe a little more info will help.

I am assuming while on jack stands you turned the rear wheels with the engine, you also observed the CVT closing and opening properly, is that correct?

With the Griz on the ground does it move better with the 4wd engaged? Trying to eliminate a stripped driveshaft.

Turning the CVT clockwise by hand will tell you nothing about the wet clutch as the oneway bearing will turn the engine over.

Those cheap aftermarket wet clutches are most likely Chinese made. At a friends shop I saw 10-15 burnt up Qlink wet clutches that he replace all with less than 1000 miles on them. Qlink is one of the Chinese Grizzly knockoff companies.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hello, thanks for the response! I did try turning the primary by hand and it did try to turn the motor over. As for the 4wd question, it doesn’t make a difference if it’s in 4wd or not, still the same issue. I’d like to point out that while I’m giving the atv throttle it sounds like it’s hitting the rev limiter also and it basically just dies. I would like to figure out exactly what the problem is before I go and order parts for it. I assumed it was the belt first and that got me nowhere.
 

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Another question, if I rebuild the clutch blocks what all do I need? I understand I’ll need new blocks but will I need to get any other gaskets other than the clutch housing one? Also I saw on another thread that the blocks from atv911.com are decent blocks. Do any of you know about those?
 

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Hello, thanks for the response! I did try turning the primary by hand and it did try to turn the motor over. As for the 4wd question, it doesn’t make a difference if it’s in 4wd or not, still the same issue. I’d like to point out that while I’m giving the atv throttle it sounds like it’s hitting the rev limiter also and it basically just dies. I would like to figure out exactly what the problem is before I go and order parts for it. I assumed it was the belt first and that got me nowhere.
When the Griz is hitting the rev-limiter...is the rev-limiter hitting through out the rpm range. Lower rpm's and higher or just high rpm's?

Does it limit out in 2wd?

Later I will post a list of possible parts needed to replace the WC shoes or WC.
 

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I am assuming while on jack stands you turned the rear wheels with the engine, you also observed the CVT closing and opening properly, is that correct?

With the Griz on the ground does it move better with the 4wd engaged? Trying to eliminate a stripped driveshaft.
Sounds like it is just the higher rpms.
Wasn't clear to me in the responses if reogem's question about what it does on jack stands was answered. I agree that would be helpful to know. Or perhaps, could you take a video of what it is doing, post on youtube and link here?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Wasn't clear to me in the responses if reogem's question about what it does on jack stands was answered. I agree that would be helpful to know. Or perhaps, could you take a video of what it is doing, post on youtube and link here?


On the jack the tires did spin and the cvt was engaging. I winched it onto my trailer to take it home because I was working in my boss’s shop. Once I got home I went to back off of the trailer thinking that it was fixed but it would not budge.


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Another question, if I rebuild the clutch blocks what all do I need? I understand I’ll need new blocks but will I need to get any other gaskets other than the clutch housing one? Also I saw on another thread that the blocks from atv911.com are decent blocks. Do any of you know about those?
Try a P.M. to member waltinbatonrouge for blocks.
Did you inspect the drum?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Try a P.M. to member waltinbatonrouge for blocks.

Did you inspect the drum?


The drum? I have not torn into the wet clutch yet. As I said in an earlier post I’m using someone’s garage to do the work so I don’t want to keep it tied up for very long. I’d like to have everything I need at the time of tearing it apart. Why I’m trying to figure out exactly what my problem is. Thanks for the feedback


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Okay...Sometimes a bad or dirty 4wd connection at the front dif will cause the rev limiter to kick in. That's what was behind some of the question I was asking. I don't think that is the problem but it would be a good idea to check the wires and plug for damage or broken pins.
Not 100% convinced it is the wet clutch but it is the must likely cause. Post up what you find when tearing it down.

But cause of the age of your machine I would do a full replacement.
That means replacing the wet clutch or the blocks only, ATV911.com "walt" is the only place I know of to get rebuilt blocks.

The clutch housing (drum) it may not be need upon inspection. If it is not burnt or scored deeply you maybe able to reuse it. To replace the clutch housing you will also need the seal and the small bearing and a gasket.

The one way since the machine is already apart. if it it has no flat spots on the sprags and the spring seem to be intact you probably could reuse it.

The parts are in the two pic's attached. Parts 1,2,4,6 on the first diagram and parts 15 & 20 in the second diagram.
 

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You should download a service manual.
Don't know if the service manuals point out that the nut on the wet clutch is left handed (anticlockwise).
Use a dab of locktite on that nut also.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
You should download a service manual.
Don't know if the service manuals point out that the nut on the wet clutch is left handed (anticlockwise).
Use a dab of locktite on that nut also.
Thanks for the info! I downloaded the service manual and ordered all of the parts I need. I’ll keep everyone posted of the outcome.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hello gentlemen, one of the problems I found so far is that one of the roller bearings is loose in my primary. I’ll add a picture. That’s as far as I’ve gotten tonight. Will update tomorrow! IMG_0436.JPG


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