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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New here but I have a 2012 grizzly 700 FI that I had just installed a new interstate battery in tonight. Parked it outside for a couple hours (-15*F) and came back out and it barely cranks. Will not start. I’m running 10w-40 Yamalube which seems pretty sticky at this temp. But I didn’t know if this would cause it to barely turn over or not. Runs great in the heated shop but if it sits outside it’s a bear to start. ? on the tender for the night just wondering if this is a common issue or not. Plug was new as of this fall.
 

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When is the last time you checked valve clearances?
They could of tightened up and this will cause hard starting, to no starting in the cold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I’ve never checked the valves on it. I’ve adjusted them on my older wheelers but wasn’t sure how easy it was on this one
 

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I'll learned to use a short shot of starting fluid when the temps get cold, say below 20*f. And once it fires I let it idle a few minutes before touching the throttle.
The oil may be holding it back too.
As for the valves, I've checked several grizzly 660's and 700's and a couple 550's, and all had 1000 miles or more with all needing the valves adjusted. I adjust the valves to the wide side of the range for max valve lash.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'll learned to use a short shot of starting fluid when the temps get cold, say below 20*f. And once it fires I let it idle a few minutes before touching the throttle.
The oil may be holding it back too.
As for the valves, I've checked several grizzly 660's and 700's and a couple 550's, and all had 1000 miles or more with all needing the valves adjusted. I adjust the valves to the wide side of the range for max valve lash.
Pretty simple deal? Or something I’d want to take to a shop? I’ve done it on Polaris models but haven’t even touched a Yamaha engine yet
 

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Adjusting the valves is not difficult, a big P.I.T.A. is getting to the top of the engine.
Then, there is not much room to move around and see what you are doing. I use an angled feeler gauge to get the angle straight with the lash gap for true measurement. Once I get the lash set and the set-nut tight I recheck the lash to confirm nothing moved.
These are low out-put, low compression engines so being slightly out of adjustment can be noticed, especially if the plug is slightly fowled and other things are not just right. (like a dirty air filter and old gas.)
The other problem with this subject is many members have reported taking their bike to the shop for valve adjustment and being charged for this work but the work was not done. Some have marked the valve cover cap with say a grease pencil, only to get the bike back and the grease pencil mark was not disturbed. (Some shops don't have experienced parts changers and get caught charging for service not performed.) Then the G.C. member decided to do the work them self to find the valve(s) needing adjusting after a trip to the shop.
A factory service manual is about 10 buck on tradebit, and will be a big help for the first timer.
 

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Hey...pedersdj..Welcome to GC from Wisconsin.

Double check the battery connections. Clean tight?
Did you charge the battery with a real charger before using it? Not a maintainer or trickle charger.
New batteries can be bad try the above if it still is a problem have the battery load tested.

Valves will not cause slow cranking. Valves out of adjustment will cause hard or no starting however.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey...pedersdj..Welcome to GC from Wisconsin.

Double check the battery connections. Clean tight?
Did you charge the battery with a real charger before using it? Not a maintainer or trickle charger.
New batteries can be bad try the above if it still is a problem have the battery load tested.

Valves will not cause slow cranking. Valves out of adjustment will cause hard or no starting however.
Connections are clean and tight. I had it on a tender over night and all day today. Heard something about not being able to charge a gel cell without a special charger. And charging these are a PITA without having to take the rack off. Just changed the oil to 0w-40 and I’m gonna see how it does sitting outside for an hour or two
 

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I decided to take a step back and look further into what you typed.

You got to make sure you have everything in perspective here.
-15f is really effing cold (-26C). Almost everything (except 2 stroke snowmobiles) will have trouble starting in those temps. They will also be very slow cranking over. At those temps, the engine is extremely tight and the starter motor requires the most demand from the battery. It's just the way it is.

I am doubtful my 660 would start at those temperatures without the help of Ether starting fluid. And I no it would be slow cranking over.
Check your valve clearances as they should be done anyway, and will help with starting when cold. If/once they are ok, then I think everything is perfectly normal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I decided to take a step back and look further into what you typed.

You got to make sure you have everything in perspective here.
-15f is really effing cold (-26C). Almost everything (except 2 stroke snowmobiles) will have trouble starting in those temps. They will also be very slow cranking over. At those temps, the engine is extremely tight and the starter motor requires the most demand from the battery. It's just the way it is.

I am doubtful my 660 would start at those temperatures without the help of Ether starting fluid. And I no it would be slow cranking over.
Check your valve clearances as they should be done anyway, and will help with starting when cold. If/once they are ok, then I think everything is perfectly normal.
Got it all running good now. switched out the oil, and put the battery on a different charger for a night. Cranks strong and starts right up. So I guess my tender bit the dust.
 
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