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So I was out in the garage cleaning and just realized I have Synthetic 15w-50 in the Grizz from when I changed my oil in August. Winters here in MN get pretty darn cold, what oil do you recommend for when it gets down to zero degrees Fahrenheit (-20 deg Celsius)

I am thinking maybe 15w-50 even though its Synthetic it might be too thick for cold starts.

During an average year around here we see temperatures ranging from -10 to +90 degrees Fahrenheit.
Starting to think I probably could just run 0w-40 all year round, just need to find some that is JASO MA or MA2 rated.

Thoughts?

I kinda would like to possibly continue using Yamalube just because I am getting a little smoke action and don't want to deal with any BS if I need engine work under warranty.
 

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You've probably seen posts from me on it before, but head over to the Burnsville Menards and go with this stuff and you're good to go all year here in MN:
https://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/automotive/automotive-maintenance/motor-oil-filters/shell-rotella-reg-t6-full-synthetic-5w-40-motor-oil/550045347/p-1444442868900.htm

I run it in EVERYTHING, all year long.

In regards to the warranty, a dealer could give pushback if they want to be a pain, but not if they truly understand consumer laws: https://www.consumer.ftc.gov/articles/0138-auto-warranties-routine-maintenance
 

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I've been using Yamalube full synthetic 0-40 ever since break in. No troubles, smoking, or oil use so far at 9000+ miles.
The parts counter sales lady at the dealership always is a little puzzled as to why I'm using snowmobile oil in an ATV.
 

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You can use Amsoil 0W-40, nake sure its the powersports version. Or Rotella T6, great oil for a very good price(about half of yamalube!). It's 5W-40 so it's perfect for all year running. Make sure to use T6, I don't think T5 is wet clutch rated, not sure about T4. Both the T6 and Amsoil are full synthetic.

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You can use Amsoil 0W-40, nake sure its the powersports version. Or Rotella T6, great oil for a very good price(about half of yamalube!). It's 5W-40 so it's perfect for all year running. Make sure to use T6, I don't think T5 is wet clutch rated, not sure about T4. Both the T6 and Amsoil are full synthetic.

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Just an FYI, there is now 2 different formulas of T6, and one is NOT wet clutch compatible.
A new formula was released about a year ago, and it's in the same bottle with almost the same label. It has Friction Modifiers added to it, and thus will cause clutch slippage. You now must read the bottle to be sure you are getting the correct formula.
 

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Just an FYI, there is now 2 different formulas of T6, and one is NOT wet clutch compatible.
A new formula was released about a year ago, and it's in the same bottle with almost the same label. It has Friction Modifiers added to it, and thus will cause clutch slippage. You now must read the bottle to be sure you are getting the correct formula.
I always check the back label for the JASO MA /MA 2 Certification.

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Just an FYI, there is now and one is NOT wet clutch compatible.
A new formula was released about a year ago, and it's in the same bottle with almost the same label. It has Friction Modifiers added to it, and thus will cause clutch slippage. You now must read the bottle to be sure you are getting the correct formula.

i 2nd that with the 2 different formulas of T6

make sure to read the bottle

i run t6 and i think its great
 

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Just an FYI, there is now 2 different formulas of T6, and one is NOT wet clutch compatible.
A new formula was released about a year ago, and it's in the same bottle with almost the same label. It has Friction Modifiers added to it, and thus will cause clutch slippage. You now must read the bottle to be sure you are getting the correct formula.
I always check the back label for the JASO MA /MA 2 Certification.

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i 2nd that with the 2 different formulas of T6

make sure to read the bottle

i run t6 and i think its great
X4 to what these guys are saying. Stupid how they have the same color bottle and T6 designation for the two grades. What I've learned is to avoid the T6 "multi-vehicle" and the other dead giveaway is that it's a 5w30, while the JASO/MA T6 is the 5w40. Green here carry the JASO/MA and the red ones do not. Image taken from here https://rotella.shell.com/ and I made the highlights after reading the data sheets.

 

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I just don't understand why anyone would cheap out on oil with a machine that you paid over 10 grand for, buy what Yamaha recommends, 30 bucks should not break you, then their is no warranty barriers.
 

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Buying Rotella is not really cheating out, its a really good, full synthetic oil for a very good price. Many people have sent in oil samples after running for analysis with very good results.
I just don't understand why anyone would cheap out on oil with a machine that you paid over 10 grand for, buy what Yamaha recommends, 30 bucks should not break you, then their is no warranty barriers.
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Synthetic 0W40. I am currently using Amsoil.

DEWFPO
 

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I run plain 10w40 Yamahalube year round.
Never had any issues and that is threw dome brutal Canadian winters.
 

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Buying Rotella is not really cheating out, its a really good, full synthetic oil for a very good price. Many people have sent in oil samples after running for analysis with very good results.

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Exactly

I just don't understand why anyone would cheap out on oil with a machine that you paid over 10 grand for, buy what Yamaha recommends, 30 bucks should not break you, then their is no warranty barriers.
So just by doing this one search: https://www.google.com/search?q=yamalube+engine+oil+data+sheet I pull up data sheets that show that Yamalube is made by the following manufacturers:
BP
JX Nippon
Spectrum Lubricants
Citgo
Petronas

And I'm sure there are many more, as that was just pulled up in one quick search.

Yamaha doesn't have their own refinery or synthetic oil production facility. Notice the language on the bottle below: "formulation authorized by Yamaha". Not per Yamaha's proprietary formula. There is a difference.

Yamaha contracts with whoever will meet the required specifications they've determined necessary for the application. 30 years ago this may have been more crucial as Yamaha's requirements likely exceeded the industry standards. But API and others have since caught up. Yamalube is good oil, but it is good because it meets modern standards that are good. The only one cheaping out here is a desk jockey at Yamaha Corporate that makes a contract with the cheapest supplier that will meet the specs. Good specs at that. And then they sell it for big profit because it starts with "Yama" on the (re-)label.

Buy Yamalube and you are getting oil from one of many possible manufacturers, good oil, but at a premium price. One ATV and you don't notice that $$ on an annual basis. But on a fleet of ATV's, mowers, generators, etc, and that adds up quick.

Buy Shell, or AMSOIL, and you know it is being made my Shell, or AMSOIL.

With Rotella, if it was made in the same quantities as Yamalube, it would most likely cost just as much. But we are fortunate that we can leverage the economies of scale from it because of guys like my dad using 10 qts at a time to change the oil in his Duramax.

 
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I guess the point I was trying to make is that if you have purchased a new Grizzly then my recommendation is to stick with Yamalube as a oil till at least the warranty is up, then there is no barriers or questions if there is a problem with your engine, Shell and Amsoil are very good oils along with many more different brands that are on the market, I run 10w40 Yamalube all year in my Grizzly with no problems, the 0w30 and 0w40 cold weather oils my Grizz seems to use abit of oil if I run them in mine for some reason.
 

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I guess the point I was trying to make is that if you have purchased a new Grizzly then my recommendation is to stick with Yamalube as a oil till at least the warranty is up, then there is no barriers or questions if there is a problem with your engine
Yep that viewpoint is understood, lots of guys here have that same mentality and if that's what it takes for you to feel confident in your warranty and dealer, then you can't be faulted for it.

I will just never recommend Yamalube to others for that reason, nor do I have any reduced confidence in warranty claims even in running non-Yamalube because of consumer protection laws I mentioned before. That's the case here in the US and I did some quick research and it looks like Canada has similar. And also, the Yamaha owners manuals don't REQUIRE Yamalube, in fact they specifically say you can run any that meets the specs.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for all the information, I appreciate it.

For me its not about being cheap, I like running full synthetic oils and had difficulty figuring out if the 0w-40 YamaLube Snowmobile formula was JASO MA rated or not. I know the Amsoil 0w-40 ATV is a great oil.

Amsoil and Mobile 1 have treated me well in the past and we used Rotella on all of our diesel equipment for years. I will probably run the Yamalube this time around just because its the first change on the Kodiak and only the second on the Grizz. The Grizz seems to be smoking occasionally which is a little concerning but seems to be running great otherwise.

My concern with 10w-xx and 15w-xx oils is that at or below 0 Fahrenheit the engine could be hard to crank over and also when the oil is too thick it may open the bypass on the filter (bad situation) or may leave the top of the engine unlubricated for a while causing metal on metal friction (very bad situation).

I feel pretty good about being able to run 0w-40 and 5w40 all year round, I do my changes based on miles and hours of runtime, so it kind of sucks I just changed the oil only 20 hours ago (40 hours on the Grizz engine) with the 15w-50 full synthetic. Probably a bit premature to change the oil on the Kodiak as it only has 6 hours of runtime, might do it anyways...
 
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i was thinking switching to the cheap dino oil at canadian tire its much cheaper

and i can do 2 or 3 oil changes to the 1 that i am doing now

i run the 5w40 rotalla and i go out at -27 never had an issue starting it up in the winter

i did just replace the battery because it was original to the bike 2012

what are some thoughts on regular jamso oil vs syn

???
 

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I use Amsoil in both my 700 and the wifes 660, plus in my cummins diesel. Especially being in MN, Fleet Farm is close and they sell the Power Sports Amsoil and the Diesel grade oil at decent prices.
 

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I use 0w40 polaris timbersled oil here in alaska its rated jaso ma. Its made for timbersled bikes with a wet clutch. Its been doing me some good I have been running it for awhile now. Has anyone else seen of this oil I think its the closest because it made for dirt bikes with wet clutch
 
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